Double emergency.Oil light on, and on the road at 07:00HELP!
Discussion
Evening all,
Im off to Devon on the bike in the morning, and the fecking Oil light is now on. I've checked the level and it looks kinda high.
Any GSXR guys know where the level should be? Right, the oil window is completely covered when the bike is upright, might even go passed the top of the window, can't really see. Put it back on the stand and it's about half way. Sounds like there's too much there right? A message "F1" is also flashing on the dash. I thought that might have meant I was going so fast that I was destined for Formula 1.....but dunno!
Anyone with any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Im leavig too early to get it to a dealer.
Many thanks,
Chilli in trouble!
Im off to Devon on the bike in the morning, and the fecking Oil light is now on. I've checked the level and it looks kinda high.
Any GSXR guys know where the level should be? Right, the oil window is completely covered when the bike is upright, might even go passed the top of the window, can't really see. Put it back on the stand and it's about half way. Sounds like there's too much there right? A message "F1" is also flashing on the dash. I thought that might have meant I was going so fast that I was destined for Formula 1.....but dunno!
Anyone with any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Im leavig too early to get it to a dealer.
Many thanks,
Chilli in trouble!
Could this be of any use mate?
(blatantly stolen from another forum).
Im writing this to help others save money and their hair, im also looking for a copy of a 2000gsxr750workshop manual, can you help me? -------When the red light comes on, eg (F1) use these fault codes to find your problem. Im sure they will work ok on all gsxr range after year of 2000. To extract the codes from the computer system, there is a two pinned connector hanging out of the wiring harness, on the left hand rear of the bike, (say above the pillion foot peg under rear trim. Be sure not to confuse the other connector used by the Suzuki Workshop Mechanics, as this has four or five wires to the connector) After locating the one with only two wires at the back, Remove the black rubber cap, use a wire,or split pin or paper clip to bridge the two wires togeather and turn the ignition to the ON position, but do not start it. You should now be able to read the code on the console. The fault codes are as follows,,
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY
(blatantly stolen from another forum).
Im writing this to help others save money and their hair, im also looking for a copy of a 2000gsxr750workshop manual, can you help me? -------When the red light comes on, eg (F1) use these fault codes to find your problem. Im sure they will work ok on all gsxr range after year of 2000. To extract the codes from the computer system, there is a two pinned connector hanging out of the wiring harness, on the left hand rear of the bike, (say above the pillion foot peg under rear trim. Be sure not to confuse the other connector used by the Suzuki Workshop Mechanics, as this has four or five wires to the connector) After locating the one with only two wires at the back, Remove the black rubber cap, use a wire,or split pin or paper clip to bridge the two wires togeather and turn the ignition to the ON position, but do not start it. You should now be able to read the code on the console. The fault codes are as follows,,
- ** GSXR Fuel Injection (FI) Code List:*****
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY
Well, don't know about your Fuel INjection but it does sound like the bike is over filled with oil..
In which case, as you got it serviced a few days ago, I'd turn up at the garage (I know you need to leave at 7 but I don't think you can on this bike at least) and demand a good loan bike whilst they fix yours free of charge...
In which case, as you got it serviced a few days ago, I'd turn up at the garage (I know you need to leave at 7 but I don't think you can on this bike at least) and demand a good loan bike whilst they fix yours free of charge...
Hi Chilli -
It's not a good idea to run an engine that has been overfilled with oil. It causes an increased build up of pressure in the crankcase.
On a car engine, it would ultimately blow the crankcase seals with oil over the engine bay and in the clutch. On a bike engine, I imagine it would just blow the seals in which case they'd weep oil.
How overfilled is it?
S
It's not a good idea to run an engine that has been overfilled with oil. It causes an increased build up of pressure in the crankcase.
On a car engine, it would ultimately blow the crankcase seals with oil over the engine bay and in the clutch. On a bike engine, I imagine it would just blow the seals in which case they'd weep oil.
How overfilled is it?
S
its fooked 
sorry not very helpful.
by the side of the oil window there are normally a couple of short lines cast into the metal, those are the high & low oil levels. check it with the bike held upright (ie not on sidestand).
if the oil light is on with the engine running then DONT RUN IT. if its really got zero oil pressure you will feck your engine very very quickly running it like that.
you use a garage for everything dont you? they need to collect it & fix it then. sorry mate but you cant use it with no oil pressure or it'll die in a few miles.
sorry not very helpful.
by the side of the oil window there are normally a couple of short lines cast into the metal, those are the high & low oil levels. check it with the bike held upright (ie not on sidestand).
if the oil light is on with the engine running then DONT RUN IT. if its really got zero oil pressure you will feck your engine very very quickly running it like that.
you use a garage for everything dont you? they need to collect it & fix it then. sorry mate but you cant use it with no oil pressure or it'll die in a few miles.
Chilli said:
Hmmm, thanks gents. Dealer's not really an option, as I used West London. Can I just undo the sump plug, and let some oil out of the bottom?
Thanks again.
Yes..but make sure you collect it in a clean basin or something so that if too much comes out...clean oil can then go back in. Be sure to use correct size socket too & don't do up too tight (if you can judge how hard it was to undo you may get a good idea of how tight to do it up again)Thanks again.
A bit of tubing into the oil filler cap and sucking will do the trick...
Go and get your Suzuki manual that came with the bike. the DRZ manual has lots of trouble shooting tips so I guess the GSXR one will too.
You may find that the oil light/FI means something different to what we assume.
Go and get your Suzuki manual that came with the bike. the DRZ manual has lots of trouble shooting tips so I guess the GSXR one will too.
You may find that the oil light/FI means something different to what we assume.
AndyDRZ said:
You may find that the oil light/FI means something different to what we assume.
is it definatly the oil light chilli as well as the FI light? as andy says check your manual but id bet the oil light is oil pressure which means you cant ride it. the FI light is just a fault code from the injection system, could be something as simple as a loose connector.hmm loose connector, thats an idea can you see or find some wires that go down to the engine & check the multiplugs are clicked together properly. i guess its possible both lights are the same fault if its a loose connector.
Just been reading a k5 Gixxer 1000 service manual
(Close enough)
And it says "The FI light is also turned ON wheren engine temperature is high or Oil pressure is low."
I suspect that your oil pressue sensor is faulty... this is a common fault on early R1's so could easily be on a Gixxer as well...
Now, do NOT follow my advice but if I was sure I had enough Oil (But not too much) I'd try stating the thing and be ready to turn it off straight away if it sounded bad... It's still in warrenty, right?
(Close enough)
And it says "The FI light is also turned ON wheren engine temperature is high or Oil pressure is low."
I suspect that your oil pressue sensor is faulty... this is a common fault on early R1's so could easily be on a Gixxer as well...
Now, do NOT follow my advice but if I was sure I had enough Oil (But not too much) I'd try stating the thing and be ready to turn it off straight away if it sounded bad... It's still in warrenty, right?
AndyDRZ said:
Just been reading a k5 Gixxer 1000 service manual
(Close enough)
And it says "The FI light is also turned ON wheren engine temperature is high or Oil pressure is low."
My money is still on the engine being overfilled with oil. As well as the increase in pressure, it will get hotter than normal.(Close enough)
And it says "The FI light is also turned ON wheren engine temperature is high or Oil pressure is low."
Chilli, can you try draining some of the oil out mate?
Cheers guys. No longer sure about letting some out of the sump....you can see where that's gonna go can't you!
The light is deffo the oil light on the dash, red and an oil can thingy. The "F1" indicator is a different issue, as it flashes alternately with the temp guage...even though the temp is ok.
So, I'll suck some out of the engine usig a bit of hose. I guess I just stick the hose into the engine bit thingy, and get the mrs to give it all she's got...right?
Any ideas roughly how much the engine holds? That'll give me an idea how much to take out! An eggcup, a glass, a pint......you realise you're talking to a complete idiot when it comes to these things....apologies for that!
The light is deffo the oil light on the dash, red and an oil can thingy. The "F1" indicator is a different issue, as it flashes alternately with the temp guage...even though the temp is ok.
So, I'll suck some out of the engine usig a bit of hose. I guess I just stick the hose into the engine bit thingy, and get the mrs to give it all she's got...right?
Any ideas roughly how much the engine holds? That'll give me an idea how much to take out! An eggcup, a glass, a pint......you realise you're talking to a complete idiot when it comes to these things....apologies for that!
I've never syphoned oil out by "mouth" as it were - too many stories of people trying it with petrol and ending up drinking the stuff by accident!
However, as I understand it, you put a tube in and suck until the fluid (oil) starts to come out into the tube. Position the tube into a suitable recepticle on the floor and when you've got enough, raise the end of the tube up - that should stop the flow.
A clear length of tubing obviously makes this process a whole lot easier, but you can buy special pumps for doing this, from Machine Mart etc.
However, as I understand it, you put a tube in and suck until the fluid (oil) starts to come out into the tube. Position the tube into a suitable recepticle on the floor and when you've got enough, raise the end of the tube up - that should stop the flow.
A clear length of tubing obviously makes this process a whole lot easier, but you can buy special pumps for doing this, from Machine Mart etc.
Edited by Sossige on Thursday 10th July 22:48
Update: I've out it up on the abba stand, and the level now looks spot on. So, faulty sensor/light /connection then?
Ok, picture the scene, I'm riding along enjoying theday....what's the worst that could happen (given that i had a good ride earlier)? Feck the engine up, it cuts out and I leave the thing there and buy a new one? Or oil all over the place, come off and die?
Gotta go to the dealer haven't I?!!
Ok, picture the scene, I'm riding along enjoying theday....what's the worst that could happen (given that i had a good ride earlier)? Feck the engine up, it cuts out and I leave the thing there and buy a new one? Or oil all over the place, come off and die?
Gotta go to the dealer haven't I?!!
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