Help no spark?
Discussion
Hi,
New to this so go easy, Mini was running about 8 months ago it has since been painted and rebuilt over some 8 months. Gone to get it running today got fuel and all the rest but NO SPARK! New Coil, New leads, plugs, Rotor arm, Dizzy cap. Still NO SPARK.
Have I missed something?
More of a fuel injection man myself.
Any help welcome
James :~)
New to this so go easy, Mini was running about 8 months ago it has since been painted and rebuilt over some 8 months. Gone to get it running today got fuel and all the rest but NO SPARK! New Coil, New leads, plugs, Rotor arm, Dizzy cap. Still NO SPARK.
Have I missed something?
More of a fuel injection man myself.
Any help welcome
James :~)
Edited by row10036802 on Friday 11th July 18:10
Is it a 'points-type' dizzy?
Check 12V +ve from the ignition switch into the coil (may be marked SW on the coil) and that the coil connections are the right way around. The -ve side of the coil (may be marked CB) goes to the low-tension connection on the side of the distributor.
Check that the points are correctly installed and that the end of the points spring is insulated from the mounting post by the little plastic insulating washers.
Check each step with a circuit tester or a meter to ensure that the right current is arriving at the right point and do this progressively, i.e. Ignition switch output, coil input, coil output, dizzy input, dizzy LT earth when points are closed. Each should be 12V of course.
If it's an electronic dizzy, check the transistor pack, or simply change it for another. That's why I prefer points as they are so easy to check and diagnose. Also, if points -type, change the condenser just to be sure.
The most common mistake with points-type dizzys is a failure to fi tthe insulation washers so that the current goes straight to earth and not to the points first.
I hope this is clear and understandable. It's easier to explain when standing in front of the car with the dizzy cap off.
Peter
Check 12V +ve from the ignition switch into the coil (may be marked SW on the coil) and that the coil connections are the right way around. The -ve side of the coil (may be marked CB) goes to the low-tension connection on the side of the distributor.
Check that the points are correctly installed and that the end of the points spring is insulated from the mounting post by the little plastic insulating washers.
Check each step with a circuit tester or a meter to ensure that the right current is arriving at the right point and do this progressively, i.e. Ignition switch output, coil input, coil output, dizzy input, dizzy LT earth when points are closed. Each should be 12V of course.
If it's an electronic dizzy, check the transistor pack, or simply change it for another. That's why I prefer points as they are so easy to check and diagnose. Also, if points -type, change the condenser just to be sure.
The most common mistake with points-type dizzys is a failure to fi tthe insulation washers so that the current goes straight to earth and not to the points first.
I hope this is clear and understandable. It's easier to explain when standing in front of the car with the dizzy cap off.
Peter
Cooperman said:
.
The most common mistake with points-type dizzys is a failure to fit the insulation washers so that the current goes straight to earth and not to the points first.
Peter
Memories are made of this.......The most common mistake with points-type dizzys is a failure to fit the insulation washers so that the current goes straight to earth and not to the points first.
Peter
hours in the front path many many years ago with an MG Midget....missed my date that night as no car to get there.....(circa 1978)
I don't know what you should get from the king lead, but I think it's lots of volts!
My choice for the fault is still the insulation washers on the end of the points spring, or a bad low tension connection at the coil or the dizzy. Check for 12V there before doing anything else.
It is worth changing the condenser and, if you've not done so, the rotor arm as well, just to be thorough.
Peter
My choice for the fault is still the insulation washers on the end of the points spring, or a bad low tension connection at the coil or the dizzy. Check for 12V there before doing anything else.
It is worth changing the condenser and, if you've not done so, the rotor arm as well, just to be thorough.
Peter
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