Bleed point for cooling

[jonny350]

I am trying to locate the air bleeding point for the cooling system on my 2003 T350. I have trawled through earlier posts, but the explanations are too vague for silly me. Can anyone explain where exactly the bleed bolt is located? Thanks very much.

Jonathan

[T450t]

I dont know if its the right bleed point but when I had an air lock I bled it through the allen key screw next to the rad on the 1" 1/4 steel pipe. I think its on the left.

[buckster]

Hey....

I posted many a message asking for this bleed point, couldn't find it for the life of me on my 2003 T350C. When it was in Dreadnought TVR getting a sensor replaced, I asked Claire who told me it's not surprising I couldn't find it as earlier T350's never had a bleed point :-).

When Dreadnought replaced the water temp sensor, they bled it via this connection.

Hope this helps, cheers

[jonny350]

Thanks both for your help. I was coming to the conclusion that there was not one on mine - or else I was going mad, or blind, or both!

I had a hose pop off and dump all the coolant. It is taking a very long time to fill the coolant back up as I can only go in 250ml to 500ml stages due to all the air now in the system. I have to start the engine to pump it around, then turn off & see how the level then looks. Can't see any other way around it without a bleeding bleed valve.

[Targarama]

On my car there are two bleed 'nipples' - one on the metal pipe from radiator to engine and the other on the metal pipe back. They are kind of located under the gap in the bonnet near the screen wash bottle.

[konrad.holl]

Trefor,

I think you're talking about the airconditioning pipes; about 1/2 inch in diameter, gray caps?

Konrad

[tail slide]

konrad.holl said:

Trefor,

I think you're talking about the airconditioning pipes; about 1/2 inch in diameter, gray caps?

Konrad

No, mine's the same Konrad - it has 2 short metal pipes inserted between the rubber hoses, in the top of these are bleed screws.

Quickest most thorough bleeding of air is with heater temp turned to hot, front of car jacked up as high as you can with 2 jacks, then run engine until above 74C (when engine thermostat opens) before (on 2004 models) opening bleed valves and letting any air or bubbles escape, then re-tightening.

For earlier cars, I would think bleeding would have to be done by slackening a hose clip near the highest point of each hose and allowing air to escape along with some water. Then top up only when cool. Remember never to undo cap when hot as the escaping pressure just allows steam pockets to form out of the water which starts to boil as pressure released in the hottest parts of the engine - introducing more air again! Land Rover's cooling system designer pointed this one out to me.

[konrad.holl]

tail slide said:

No, mine's the same Konrad - it has 2 short metal pipes inserted between the rubber hoses, in the top of these are bleed screws.

Paul,

that sounds interesting. Do you have any pictures?

I need to change the radiator on my 2003 T350 (the new one's already arrived , I'm still waiting for some stainless screws for the panel below the radiator). I could add similar bleeding pipes in the process.

Thanks

Konrad

Edited by konrad.holl on Wednesday 16th July 09:26

[VARLEYHYD]

Konrad,

Hope this helps

Right Hand



Left Hand


Alternatively if you fit new silicone hoses get the bleed put into the hose like mine are now.

rad to cooler hose now one piece with bleed fitted reducing number of hose clips/leak paths by two


Use Mikalor Supapro band clips also for no leaks at all!


G

[tail slide]

Good pics & info Graham - beat me to it!

I'm trying to find better way of bleeding, 'cos still have to do it a few times. So I'm trying with rear of car jacked up instead, as the rad actually tilts upwards at front, leaving space in highest points of end-tanks each side for air to be trapped I believe.

Presumably Sag & maybe Tamora rads are same?


Edited to say; Jacking rear up does work best for T350, all air bubbles out in one hit. Tested bleed screws later, no air left, unlike previous occasions when it took several attempts.

Varleyvhd's solution below still fastest/best, but I need to save up for all that tasty kit like a pressure pump...

Edited by tail slide on Thursday 17th July 19:02

[konrad.holl]

Graham,

I'm impressed (as always) . Thanks!

How do these bleed points work? Are they any special parts? I was thinking of simply welding an 8 mm nut on a 35 mm pipe and using a screw and with a copper gasket as bleed point.

Konrad

[VARLEYHYD]

konrad.holl said:

How do these bleed points work? Are they any special parts? I was thinking of simply welding an 8 mm nut on a 35 mm pipe and using a screw and with a copper gasket as bleed point.

Konrad

I think the T350's i've seen use a boss tapped M8 with a capscrew and copper washer fitted.

But my Sag has a proper bleed screw fitted (same as brakes)

Another tip when refilling with coolant from dry was to fill through the bleed, untill the air was forced out of the header tank filler, then tighten cap and pressure test with a pump to 15-20 psi.

On this photo- remove bleed screw and attached hose to glycol filled pump to fill & pressure test




This photo shows my revised one piece hose on the right side with bleed within (supplied by ACT)


It's all in the Sag manual

Hope this helps


G