Starting procedure for a Sagaris
Discussion
Ive recently bought a Sagaris and wanted to check thebest way to start the car from cold which would have the least wear and tear on the engine etc.
Is this right ?
switch electrics on.
Start engine and hold at 2000rpm
one quick blast to clear pipes.
drive it straight away and dont leave it idling cold
dont take it over 3000rpm until oil temp is 60?
dont take it over 4000rpm until oil temp is 80ish ?
Im not used to having a tvr (prev was lotus elise) and when i start the car it always feels like its about to stall as rpm dips to 500ish sometimes. Is this normal.
Thanks to anyone in advance for your help.
Darren
Is this right ?
switch electrics on.
Start engine and hold at 2000rpm
one quick blast to clear pipes.
drive it straight away and dont leave it idling cold
dont take it over 3000rpm until oil temp is 60?
dont take it over 4000rpm until oil temp is 80ish ?
Im not used to having a tvr (prev was lotus elise) and when i start the car it always feels like its about to stall as rpm dips to 500ish sometimes. Is this normal.
Thanks to anyone in advance for your help.
Darren
Not sure about the holding it at 2000rpm immediately. Seems a little harsh.
Start, quick blip on startup to get the oil flying round as quickly as poss (note: this may not apply to a dry-sumped engine) and then move away smoothly reasonably quickly. I don't mean off before the starter motor has disengaged like I saw a colleague do in his oil-burner yesterday. Let it settle to an idle first!
Then, yes, the forever wait for it to come up to temperature. You'll have completed a majority of journeys before you see 80 degC though - life's too short for that.
I've been without mine for a few months so I'm a bit rusty on startup procedure, but I'm pretty sure it's ok to start pressing on from around 50 degC onwards, and even then that's usually 15 mins into your journey.
Start, quick blip on startup to get the oil flying round as quickly as poss (note: this may not apply to a dry-sumped engine) and then move away smoothly reasonably quickly. I don't mean off before the starter motor has disengaged like I saw a colleague do in his oil-burner yesterday. Let it settle to an idle first!
Then, yes, the forever wait for it to come up to temperature. You'll have completed a majority of journeys before you see 80 degC though - life's too short for that.
I've been without mine for a few months so I'm a bit rusty on startup procedure, but I'm pretty sure it's ok to start pressing on from around 50 degC onwards, and even then that's usually 15 mins into your journey.
Edited by JonRB on Thursday 24th July 16:02
I have a Tamora, but thought that starting proceedure is probably similar, no doubt others on here will confirm, but...
switch electrics on.
Start engine and hold at 2000rpm - I just switch on, with no throttle and let it find its idle.
one quick blast to clear pipes. - Nope I never do this
drive it straight away and dont leave it idling cold - yes, apparently leaving it idle cold is not good.
dont take it over 3000rpm until oil temp is 60? - The Tamora manual says something similar, these figures perhaps on the over cautious side.
dont take it over 4000rpm until oil temp is 80ish ?
IMO anyway...
switch electrics on.
Start engine and hold at 2000rpm - I just switch on, with no throttle and let it find its idle.
one quick blast to clear pipes. - Nope I never do this
drive it straight away and dont leave it idling cold - yes, apparently leaving it idle cold is not good.
dont take it over 3000rpm until oil temp is 60? - The Tamora manual says something similar, these figures perhaps on the over cautious side.
dont take it over 4000rpm until oil temp is 80ish ?
IMO anyway...
Ignition on, wait for fuel pump buzz. Depress clutch and start with no throttle. When running, push revs to around 11/1200 revs to get the oil around the top of the engine, hold for 10 seconds or so, and then move off without too much delay.
Up to 2500 till oil above 40 deg C
Up to 3000 till oil above 50 deg C
Up to 4000 till oil above 60 deg C
Then drive as normal, but don’t cane the poor thing until you’re close to or better still, above 80 degrees C.
Try not to let the engine drop below 1500 rpm at any time when under load
Up to 2500 till oil above 40 deg C
Up to 3000 till oil above 50 deg C
Up to 4000 till oil above 60 deg C
Then drive as normal, but don’t cane the poor thing until you’re close to or better still, above 80 degrees C.
Try not to let the engine drop below 1500 rpm at any time when under load
The actual procedure is have a large bucket of water next to the car.
Turn the key, once the fuel pump has primed, try to start it without touching the accelator, but it will never fire.
So you will then push the accelerator down a little and most times it will fire to a totally lumpy idle, as you say of about 500rpm.
So you will push the acclerator down. There is no way that you will be able to keep it at fixed revs, it will just jump all over the place until it warms up.
Occasionally, when you try to start it - pushing down the accelerator as you have to, to get it to start will cause it to backfire massively, the resulting fire will melt your air intake box and set your air filter on fire.
Jump out of the car and throw the bucket of water down the gaps and onto the engine as quickly as possible to save your car going up in flames.
Then call the recovery truck.
As for keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, don't bother the sensors are located in the airflow so on a cold day especially, they seem to take an age to warm up because the cold air rushing at the car from the front affects the sensor.
Turn the key, once the fuel pump has primed, try to start it without touching the accelator, but it will never fire.
So you will then push the accelerator down a little and most times it will fire to a totally lumpy idle, as you say of about 500rpm.
So you will push the acclerator down. There is no way that you will be able to keep it at fixed revs, it will just jump all over the place until it warms up.
Occasionally, when you try to start it - pushing down the accelerator as you have to, to get it to start will cause it to backfire massively, the resulting fire will melt your air intake box and set your air filter on fire.
Jump out of the car and throw the bucket of water down the gaps and onto the engine as quickly as possible to save your car going up in flames.
Then call the recovery truck.
As for keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, don't bother the sensors are located in the airflow so on a cold day especially, they seem to take an age to warm up because the cold air rushing at the car from the front affects the sensor.
RedTuscan said:
The actual procedure is have a large bucket of water next to the car.
Turn the key, once the fuel pump has primed, try to start it without touching the accelator, but it will never fire.
So you will then push the accelerator down a little and most times it will fire to a totally lumpy idle, as you say of about 500rpm.
So you will push the acclerator down. There is no way that you will be able to keep it at fixed revs, it will just jump all over the place until it warms up.
Occasionally, when you try to start it - pushing down the accelerator as you have to, to get it to start will cause it to backfire massively, the resulting fire will melt your air intake box and set your air filter on fire.
Jump out of the car and throw the bucket of water down the gaps and onto the engine as quickly as possible to save your car going up in flames.
Then call the recovery truck.
As for keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, don't bother the sensors are located in the airflow so on a cold day especially, they seem to take an age to warm up because the cold air rushing at the car from the front affects the sensor.
Yep, I suppose they will do what you say if somethings not rightTurn the key, once the fuel pump has primed, try to start it without touching the accelator, but it will never fire.
So you will then push the accelerator down a little and most times it will fire to a totally lumpy idle, as you say of about 500rpm.
So you will push the acclerator down. There is no way that you will be able to keep it at fixed revs, it will just jump all over the place until it warms up.
Occasionally, when you try to start it - pushing down the accelerator as you have to, to get it to start will cause it to backfire massively, the resulting fire will melt your air intake box and set your air filter on fire.
Jump out of the car and throw the bucket of water down the gaps and onto the engine as quickly as possible to save your car going up in flames.
Then call the recovery truck.
As for keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, don't bother the sensors are located in the airflow so on a cold day especially, they seem to take an age to warm up because the cold air rushing at the car from the front affects the sensor.
And when did you last have the car serviced Sir!
No throttle and 850-950rpm tickover correctly set and never stalls or lumpy running
G
RedTuscan said:
The actual procedure is have a large bucket of water next to the car.
Turn the key, once the fuel pump has primed, try to start it without touching the accelator, but it will never fire.
So you will then push the accelerator down a little and most times it will fire to a totally lumpy idle, as you say of about 500rpm.
So you will push the acclerator down. There is no way that you will be able to keep it at fixed revs, it will just jump all over the place until it warms up.
Occasionally, when you try to start it - pushing down the accelerator as you have to, to get it to start will cause it to backfire massively, the resulting fire will melt your air intake box and set your air filter on fire.
Jump out of the car and throw the bucket of water down the gaps and onto the engine as quickly as possible to save your car going up in flames.
Then call the recovery truck.
As for keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, don't bother the sensors are located in the airflow so on a cold day especially, they seem to take an age to warm up because the cold air rushing at the car from the front affects the sensor.
We all thought you'd given up posting your depressing drivel, Can't you go and annoy people on another forum, or are you not welcome there either.Turn the key, once the fuel pump has primed, try to start it without touching the accelator, but it will never fire.
So you will then push the accelerator down a little and most times it will fire to a totally lumpy idle, as you say of about 500rpm.
So you will push the acclerator down. There is no way that you will be able to keep it at fixed revs, it will just jump all over the place until it warms up.
Occasionally, when you try to start it - pushing down the accelerator as you have to, to get it to start will cause it to backfire massively, the resulting fire will melt your air intake box and set your air filter on fire.
Jump out of the car and throw the bucket of water down the gaps and onto the engine as quickly as possible to save your car going up in flames.
Then call the recovery truck.
As for keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, don't bother the sensors are located in the airflow so on a cold day especially, they seem to take an age to warm up because the cold air rushing at the car from the front affects the sensor.
These are the words of wisdom from JR regarding the Speed 6 and starting / warming up.
RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40°C, 4,000 rpm until 60°C and 7,000 rpm until 80°C. If it climbs above 110°C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40°C, 4,000 rpm until 60°C and 7,000 rpm until 80°C. If it climbs above 110°C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
unrepentant said:
These are the words of wisdom from JR regarding the Speed 6 and starting / warming up.
RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40°C, 4,000 rpm until 60°C and 7,000 rpm until 80°C. If it climbs above 110°C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
Well that's more sensible. Life is too short to do the ones mentioned earlier - most journeys would be over before you got "warm" with them. RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40°C, 4,000 rpm until 60°C and 7,000 rpm until 80°C. If it climbs above 110°C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
unrepentant said:
These are the words of wisdom from JR regarding the Speed 6 and starting / warming up.
RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40°C, 4,000 rpm until 60°C and 7,000 rpm until 80°C. If it climbs above 110°C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
While I agree with most that you say...re cold start upsRUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40°C, 4,000 rpm until 60°C and 7,000 rpm until 80°C. If it climbs above 110°C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
Whats the benefit in revving the nuts off the thing up to 7K ...
Its run out of steam by 6500 or less
unrepentant said:
These are the words of wisdom from JR regarding the Speed 6 and starting / warming up.
RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40°C, 4,000 rpm until 60°C and 7,000 rpm until 80°C. If it climbs above 110°C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
With my Speed 6's I used to start them as described but once fired up, just leave it to idle until oil was at least 25/30deg before even taking it out on the road. Then continue as JR suggest.RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40°C, 4,000 rpm until 60°C and 7,000 rpm until 80°C. If it climbs above 110°C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
I suppose it's ok doing this if you have somewhere secure.
RedTuscan said:
The actual procedure is have a large bucket of water next to the car.
Turn the key, once the fuel pump has primed, try to start it without touching the accelator, but it will never fire.
So you will then push the accelerator down a little and most times it will fire to a totally lumpy idle, as you say of about 500rpm.
So you will push the acclerator down. There is no way that you will be able to keep it at fixed revs, it will just jump all over the place until it warms up.
Occasionally, when you try to start it - pushing down the accelerator as you have to, to get it to start will cause it to backfire massively, the resulting fire will melt your air intake box and set your air filter on fire.
Jump out of the car and throw the bucket of water down the gaps and onto the engine as quickly as possible to save your car going up in flames.
Then call the recovery truck.
As for keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, don't bother the sensors are located in the airflow so on a cold day especially, they seem to take an age to warm up because the cold air rushing at the car from the front affects the sensor.
Turn the key, once the fuel pump has primed, try to start it without touching the accelator, but it will never fire.
So you will then push the accelerator down a little and most times it will fire to a totally lumpy idle, as you say of about 500rpm.
So you will push the acclerator down. There is no way that you will be able to keep it at fixed revs, it will just jump all over the place until it warms up.
Occasionally, when you try to start it - pushing down the accelerator as you have to, to get it to start will cause it to backfire massively, the resulting fire will melt your air intake box and set your air filter on fire.
Jump out of the car and throw the bucket of water down the gaps and onto the engine as quickly as possible to save your car going up in flames.
Then call the recovery truck.
As for keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, don't bother the sensors are located in the airflow so on a cold day especially, they seem to take an age to warm up because the cold air rushing at the car from the front affects the sensor.
After she's fired up, I rev gently to around 1500rpm as I've been told that at these revs the supply of oil to the upper head is better than an normal idle.
As others have said, use your oil temp as the trigger for increasing revs - on the customised display, I have the oil temp in the large font.
Julian
As others have said, use your oil temp as the trigger for increasing revs - on the customised display, I have the oil temp in the large font.
Julian
Start up after fuel pump primed, no throttle, let it catch, little bit of throttle to keep it at 1500. Drive off. Enjoy. Just don't rag the thing until the oil is over 50. I tend to never go over 3K rpm until the water temp is around 80 (the oil temp will show low anyway as the air is flowing over it).
JonRB said:
EnjyBenjy said:
Start up after fuel pump primed, no throttle, let it catch, little bit of throttle to keep it at 1500. Drive off. Enjoy. Just don't rag the thing until the oil is over 50.
Ah, the startup procedure advocated by my local TVR dealer. Ignore your dealer, he should know better than to give such wrong advice...unless of course he also advertises engine rebuilds.
Edited by TVR_owner on Friday 25th July 12:38
TVR_owner said:
JonRB said:
EnjyBenjy said:
Start up after fuel pump primed, no throttle, let it catch, little bit of throttle to keep it at 1500. Drive off. Enjoy. Just don't rag the thing until the oil is over 50.
Ah, the startup procedure advocated by my local TVR dealer. I think I will be basing my cold start procedure on the JR one though (assuming we're talking about John Ravenscroft as opposed to a fictional character from an 80's soap opera
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