Who good with wiring (no battery light?)
Discussion
Following on from my alternator burning out last week
I discovered the 100amp fuse had been replaced with some wire wrapped around it
Ive replaced the alternator and 100amp fuse
quick charged the battery
But theres now no battery light?
Bulb in speedo`s not blown
Battery = Engine Running 13.82v Engine Off 12.46v
Alternator = Engine running 14.14v Engine off 11.94v
White lead running 7.05v
Brown lead running 13.78v
Does this look like an alternator fault or did i burn some of the wiring when the alternator failed
I
hate electrics
Any ideas folks?
Cheers Ben
I discovered the 100amp fuse had been replaced with some wire wrapped around it

Ive replaced the alternator and 100amp fuse
quick charged the battery
But theres now no battery light?
Bulb in speedo`s not blown
Battery = Engine Running 13.82v Engine Off 12.46v
Alternator = Engine running 14.14v Engine off 11.94v
White lead running 7.05v
Brown lead running 13.78v
Does this look like an alternator fault or did i burn some of the wiring when the alternator failed
I
hate electricsAny ideas folks?
Cheers Ben
theaxe said:
What do you mean by battery light? The 'not charging' light should only come on when the engine isn't running or if there is a problem with the system.
The battery light/charging light should light up on the first 2 clicks of the ignition then go outEdited by theaxe on Saturday 26th July 13:39
Thats how i know its not working.
Edited by Meatball on Saturday 26th July 13:45
The no-charge warning lamp connects the switched ignition voltage with the field coils. The current that lights the lamp also energizes the field coils to help get the alternator working.
Is the no-charge warning lamp an ordinary bulb, or an LED, on that model?
If it's a bulb it may be that the bulb has failed or there is a wiring fault. It's easy to see how this could occur if you've had a big electrical failure. Are you certain it's wired up correctly? It may simply be that the lamp isn't connected to the coils.
If it's an LED then I'd expect to find a resistive bypass circuit and there's the additional possibility that this has blown effectively shorting the lamp out.
Is the no-charge warning lamp an ordinary bulb, or an LED, on that model?
If it's a bulb it may be that the bulb has failed or there is a wiring fault. It's easy to see how this could occur if you've had a big electrical failure. Are you certain it's wired up correctly? It may simply be that the lamp isn't connected to the coils.
If it's an LED then I'd expect to find a resistive bypass circuit and there's the additional possibility that this has blown effectively shorting the lamp out.
GreenV8S said:
The no-charge warning lamp connects the switched ignition voltage with the field coils. The current that lights the lamp also energizes the field coils to help get the alternator working.
Is the no-charge warning lamp an ordinary bulb, or an LED, on that model?
If it's a bulb it may be that the bulb has failed or there is a wiring fault. It's easy to see how this could occur if you've had a big electrical failure. Are you certain it's wired up correctly? It may simply be that the lamp isn't connected to the coils.
If it's an LED then I'd expect to find a resistive bypass circuit and there's the additional possibility that this has blown effectively shorting the lamp out.
Hi its a bulb on my model i switched it over with another but is still not working. Is the no-charge warning lamp an ordinary bulb, or an LED, on that model?
If it's a bulb it may be that the bulb has failed or there is a wiring fault. It's easy to see how this could occur if you've had a big electrical failure. Are you certain it's wired up correctly? It may simply be that the lamp isn't connected to the coils.
If it's an LED then I'd expect to find a resistive bypass circuit and there's the additional possibility that this has blown effectively shorting the lamp out.
Im pretty sure its wired up correct on my model (serp) ive got the main power lead and 2 spade connectors ive tried switching the spade connectors around but its still the same.
Are there any other connections i may have missed?
"It may simply be that the lamp isn't connected to the coils." i assume this is built in the back of the alternator.
Sounds like a dumb question but should i still drive the car untill i find the fault? i ask this as ive already been recovered by the AA who pointed out the 100amp fuse had blown and i was running of the battery untill it went flat
much to the amusement of the local subaru kids (broke down on a busy bridge).I think your alternator is working from what you describe when measuring the voltage at the battery.
Also your 100 amp fuse must be OK too as if it were blown you would not have the 13.8 volts at the battery.
I have been told that some of the later alternators don't require a field winding supply for the alternator to work (self stimulating, ooh er misses) so this may mean your charge light won't be passing enough current to make it light up.
Just a thought.
Paul
Also your 100 amp fuse must be OK too as if it were blown you would not have the 13.8 volts at the battery.
I have been told that some of the later alternators don't require a field winding supply for the alternator to work (self stimulating, ooh er misses) so this may mean your charge light won't be passing enough current to make it light up.
Just a thought.
Paul
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