Destination unknown
Discussion
I believe its under the centre console/dash somewhere.
There was a post recently where someone had replaced it with a lead direct from the battery via the same hole the positive lead goes through under the wiper motor. So suggests it is under the dash somewhere. If it does terminate there why on earth (no pun intended) run it a couple of inches from a hot manifold to loop back on itself to the dash?
Mine was in a similar condition when I painted the chassis. I spliced a new piece onto the remaining decent cable but it was close to where it disappears into the bodywork near the handbrake.
There was a post recently where someone had replaced it with a lead direct from the battery via the same hole the positive lead goes through under the wiper motor. So suggests it is under the dash somewhere. If it does terminate there why on earth (no pun intended) run it a couple of inches from a hot manifold to loop back on itself to the dash?
Mine was in a similar condition when I painted the chassis. I spliced a new piece onto the remaining decent cable but it was close to where it disappears into the bodywork near the handbrake.
mikesr said:
I believe its under the centre console/dash somewhere.
There was a post recently where someone had replaced it with a lead direct from the battery via the same hole the positive lead goes through under the wiper motor. So suggests it is under the dash somewhere.
That was me having problems with the ECU telling me that I had a battery fault. New battery, checked through the alternator, replaced big fuse and holder, replaced wires between alternator-big fuse-start motor and still had the problem. Changed the shown earth wire and everything has been ok since then.There was a post recently where someone had replaced it with a lead direct from the battery via the same hole the positive lead goes through under the wiper motor. So suggests it is under the dash somewhere.
I also think the wire is routed a stupid way (on the SP6 you have 2 cats about 5 cm from it) so I routed the new one under the expansion tank through the same hole as the positive wire and in under the dash just below the radio where it is a earth point that is feed by this wire. The ECU gets its earth from that point.
Oh great 
This is one area I was hoping I didn't have to touch, the interior.
Thanks for your replies all. Thanks also for the pic Tang, very helpfull too actually seeing it too.
Guess I've got no choice but to tackle the interior now. But I really don't like buggering about with interiors at all. Must be claustrophobic

This is one area I was hoping I didn't have to touch, the interior.
Thanks for your replies all. Thanks also for the pic Tang, very helpfull too actually seeing it too.
Guess I've got no choice but to tackle the interior now. But I really don't like buggering about with interiors at all. Must be claustrophobic

caduceus said:
Oh great 
This is one area I was hoping I didn't have to touch, the interior.
Thanks for your replies all. Thanks also for the pic Tang, very helpfull too actually seeing it too.
Guess I've got no choice but to tackle the interior now. But I really don't like buggering about with interiors at all. Must be claustrophobic
The centre console isn't as bad as it looks to get out. 
This is one area I was hoping I didn't have to touch, the interior.
Thanks for your replies all. Thanks also for the pic Tang, very helpfull too actually seeing it too.
Guess I've got no choice but to tackle the interior now. But I really don't like buggering about with interiors at all. Must be claustrophobic

Take out the passenger seat - don't struggle to undo the bolts, just cut them and replace with stainless.
Take out helmet holder shell - wing nut above petrol tank in the boot.
Remove instrument binnacle - two wing nuts under dash
Undo two bolts each side at the outer end of the dash by the door pillars. Pop the trunking off the passenger ventilator.
Undo one self tapper screw just under the front edge of the drivers side arm rest 'pod'. - Don’t forget this one!!!
Undo gear knob and handle off handbrake.
Ease the console away from the rest of the dashboard at the front and then feed the instrument panel down through the hole. Be careful when lifting the console over the handbrake - it is easy to nick the leather on the ratchet. The whole thing will come out of the passenger door with careful manoeuvring.
You may be able to get to the earth lead behind the 'cubby-hole' without removing it. If not you will also need to remove the air vents in the footwells and disconnect the wiring to the lighter and immobiliser disarm switch.
HTH
There is a easier way to do it (takes about 30 minutes):
1. Take out the helmet holder
2. Take out the small taping screw in the center console (just beside the drivers seat)
3. Take away the panel over the passenger foot well, when this panel is out you can route the new wire as i did since it is possible to get to the holes for the harness and positive feed wire for the car.
4. Take out the panel over the drivers foot well
5. It is now possible to take out the panel with the cig lighter etc (be careful so you do not hurt any wires)
This is the way it is described in the "manual" that Jools has put together.
1. Take out the helmet holder
2. Take out the small taping screw in the center console (just beside the drivers seat)
3. Take away the panel over the passenger foot well, when this panel is out you can route the new wire as i did since it is possible to get to the holes for the harness and positive feed wire for the car.
4. Take out the panel over the drivers foot well
5. It is now possible to take out the panel with the cig lighter etc (be careful so you do not hurt any wires)
This is the way it is described in the "manual" that Jools has put together.
As I have already expressed, I am very reluctant to take the dash apart to get to this earth point to replace the shot cable. Although further up into the bulkhead, the cable becomes more intact an has no signs of breach.
Is there a heavy duty, I hesitate to use the words 'connector block', item that can connect the new 35mm earth cable to the old, but adequate multi strand cable?
The interior in my Cerb is so well put together its as tight as a balerinas g-string. And I really don't want to take it apart, only to make a crap job of putting it back and introducing some unwanted squeeks and rattles.
Cheers
Is there a heavy duty, I hesitate to use the words 'connector block', item that can connect the new 35mm earth cable to the old, but adequate multi strand cable?
The interior in my Cerb is so well put together its as tight as a balerinas g-string. And I really don't want to take it apart, only to make a crap job of putting it back and introducing some unwanted squeeks and rattles.
Cheers
Edited by caduceus on Saturday 7th February 10:55
I bought a crimp tool for battery cables from Vehicle Wiring Products to redo the cables to and from the alternator/start/battery and main earth into the nearside wheel arch
So when I found the same fried earth that you have I cut back to good cable and fitted a new piece using a crimp connector again from VWP
So far no problems with it but I do intend replacing the entire piece at some point with new cable.
I was going to investigate access from within the passenger side dash and run a cable in under the expansion tank direct from the battery.
So when I found the same fried earth that you have I cut back to good cable and fitted a new piece using a crimp connector again from VWP
So far no problems with it but I do intend replacing the entire piece at some point with new cable.
I was going to investigate access from within the passenger side dash and run a cable in under the expansion tank direct from the battery.
that's just behind the centre console, you dont need the dash out to do that, just slide sideways towards the passenger side the under-dash section that has the cig lighter and ashtray in it. you need to remove the passenger transmission tunnel air vent, then just inside you will see a 6mm bolt, remove the nut and that part of the under-dash will slide out sideways towards the passenger footwell. You *may* have to remove the rear "helmet holder " thing and raise the centre console and support on a lock of wood (don forget the little self tapper on the o/side of the transmission tunnel holding the centre section down .. have a look it will become apparent) ..
hope some of that makes sense anyway!
hope some of that makes sense anyway!
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for the guides. Much appreciated. Between you both I think my interior removal fobia has been eased somewhat.