Sticky Shift

[Konrod]

Had a ggod long run in the Tiv this weekend, all on backroads.

I've recently fitted a front spoiler and moved the number plate (Mk1 Chim) to improve cooling and it has worked well, with engine temps 5 - 10 degrees lower.

One problem I have noticed is that the gear know gets hot, epsecially whenmoving slowly or stationary), and the gears seem to stick, especially in 3rd/4th plane. Knocking the lever towards neutral seems to resolve it, but worried one day it may not. Is this a case of TADTS or is there something I need to look at?

Also, where is the heater valve to reduce heat in the pasenger footwell?

Thanks in advance

J

[WOO5IE]

Hi Konrod

Valve is in the passenger footwell high up on the left hand side. You may have to take back the carpet a little to see it.

See link with pictures

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

h eother end of the cables are under the dash behind the heater controls .

THey never seem to blow cold

Trev

[chrispitman]

Got a simular problem with mine, when cold the box is realy smooth and easy to change, when it has warmed up it gets a little stiffer. On two occasions after long runs I have parked up out of gear but will not go back in. If left in gear another gear can be selected easly.

So far gearbox was rebuilt with new sincros of 3/4 as 1/2 were ok. Filled with red oil so assume its atf.

Replace clutch fluid with dot 5 hi temp stuff and checked for leaks.

Clutch plate is less than half worn.

Any more ideas

[vrover8]

Its possible there is something wrong inside the gearbox or to do with the linkage. But one of the best mods I've done to mine is to change over to synthetic ATF fluid I first did this on my Landrover Defender with a lt77 gearbox and it litrally transformed it to being able to change gear with one finger. So when I bought My T5 box Chimaera in January I did the same to that and got the same result although with two fingers in the tvr as it has a shorter stick. It is quite expensive and it does take about two hundred miles to take effect. I also put slick 50 gearbox treatment in at the same time thinking that might help as well. It is a popular and well regarded modification in the world of landrover and I would recommend it to all TVR drivers as well. You can buy it from-

www.difflock.com or
www.demon-tweeks.co.uk

I would be intrested to hear from anyone else who has tryed it.

[siwebster]

Had my gearbox rebuilt recently too, one of the symptoms cured was sticky gearshift - this was due to a worn or corroded rose joint on the gear linkage, apparently quite common. This was replaced and all is now great, although main reason for rebuild was syncromesh on 5th/reverse.

[K4TRV]

vrover8 said:

Its possible there is something wrong inside the gearbox or to do with the linkage. But one of the best mods I've done to mine is to change over to synthetic ATF fluid I first did this on my Landrover Defender with a lt77 gearbox and it litrally transformed it to being able to change gear with one finger. So when I bought My T5 box Chimaera in January I did the same to that and got the same result although with two fingers in the tvr as it has a shorter stick. It is quite expensive and it does take about two hundred miles to take effect. I also put slick 50 gearbox treatment in at the same time thinking that might help as well. It is a popular and well regarded modification in the world of landrover and I would recommend it to all TVR drivers as well. You can buy it from-

www.difflock.com or
www.demon-tweeks.co.uk
I would be intrested to hear from anyone else who has tryed it.

I use and thoroughly recommend, from Diff lock their Difflock Evolution 1 Fully Synthetic 5 speed Gear Oil in my 93 Chimaera (LT77) - world of difference. Plus spray "spray grease" up into (from below) the gear change linkage area.

regards

Trev McM

Edited by K4TRV on Monday 28th July 13:30

[Konrod]

Thanks for the replies. Gearbox fluid (T5) was replaced recently and that improved the shift quality and there aren't any other syncromesh/selction issues except when its hot. Time to lift the tunnel top I think and see what awaits me - I assume I can get at the rose joint/linkage this way, or is only accessed from underneath?

[chrispitman]

Remove the console, then there is a plate remove this and you have access to the top og the box and linkage.

The only thing I can think off on mine is theres a rod and sleve arangement which attaches near the bell housing on the top of the box part of the remote linkage. I wonder if this is getting stiff with heat and need stripping and cleaning / greasing.

[richy759]

I'd be interested knowing how you get on with this as I suffer from it also. I'd have thought it would be stiffer when the joints were cold rather than hot.
Rich

[roysum]

"I've recently fitted a front spoiler and moved the number plate (Mk1 Chim) to improve cooling and it has worked well, with engine temps 5 - 10 degrees lower."

Done the plate move to mine, exactly the same lower temp.

Roy.

[f@-pots]

Hi, Where have you put the plate? The obvious place(albeit illegal) is a sticky on one on the bonnet?

[Konrod]

Nope, attached it to the lower potion of the body. Cut off the excess length of number plate at either end so it was shorter without going to an illegal text. Thought long and hard about how to attach it, and in thend just drilled a pilot hole and used self tappers. I also put mine at a slight angle, put vertical it just looks odd.....

Picture below isn't the best but you'll get the idea - taken at Le Mans Classic this year



J

[roysum]

Yes, have put mine lower than the aperture and have used velcro. Seems to withstand g forces that the Chim gives it ok !!

Have a look at http://www.tvr-nomads.co.uk/ its the Mk 1 grill variant (dark blue).

Roy.