few small issues with cerb, instrument and leak wise
Discussion
the fans on the cerb seem to blow pathetically,
cold air is weak and when i use the hot air the fan in the blower must be chaffing something as it has a horrible whine but it does blow ok ish compared to cold air. how do i get to the blower unit and can i take it out easily? also my ac doesnt work would there be any other reason for this bar gas level and broken compressor??
my carpets are wet but only on the upright part of the carpet in the front of the footwell after the front edge of the door jam and around the area where a normal cars bonnet realease handle would be. ANY IDEAS WHERES ITS GETTING IN?? i can see some wiring coming from outsdie but cant inspect as the door opens into the area. when i have time i plane to pull the carpet out and inspect but would like to know if theres a common area around where i have the problem. oh and its the same on the passengers side.
there is a unkown button on the centre channel that lights up green when i press it, i cannot turn it off untill thecar is turned off, its close to the silver key and is mounted horizontally pointing up.
the 2 push buttons by the fans knobs? is the blue one for a/c and the red one for rear screen demister?
cold air is weak and when i use the hot air the fan in the blower must be chaffing something as it has a horrible whine but it does blow ok ish compared to cold air. how do i get to the blower unit and can i take it out easily? also my ac doesnt work would there be any other reason for this bar gas level and broken compressor??
my carpets are wet but only on the upright part of the carpet in the front of the footwell after the front edge of the door jam and around the area where a normal cars bonnet realease handle would be. ANY IDEAS WHERES ITS GETTING IN?? i can see some wiring coming from outsdie but cant inspect as the door opens into the area. when i have time i plane to pull the carpet out and inspect but would like to know if theres a common area around where i have the problem. oh and its the same on the passengers side.
there is a unkown button on the centre channel that lights up green when i press it, i cannot turn it off untill thecar is turned off, its close to the silver key and is mounted horizontally pointing up.
the 2 push buttons by the fans knobs? is the blue one for a/c and the red one for rear screen demister?
cupra20v.t said:
the fans on the cerb seem to blow pathetically,
cold air is weak (DO A SEARCH THERE ARE SO MANY THREADS ON THIS) and when i use the hot air the fan in the blower must be chaffing something as it has a horrible whine but it does blow ok ish compared to cold air. how do i get to the blower unit and can i take it out easily? also my ac doesnt work would there be any other reason for this bar gas level and broken compressor?? HAVE YOU GOT AIRCON OR JUST THE BUTTON? IF YOU DO HAVE A COMPRESSOR - CAN YOU HEAR IT CLICK WHEN YOU PRESS THE BUTTON? IT CAN BE EXPENSIVE TO FIX - I WOULD GET IT FIXED BUT I THINK MOST PEOPLE SAVE THE MONEY FOR MORE IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE
my carpets are wet but only on the upright part of the carpet in the front of the footwell after the front edge of the door jam and around the area where a normal cars bonnet realease handle would be. ANY IDEAS WHERES ITS GETTING IN?? i can see some wiring coming from outsdie but cant inspect as the door opens into the area. when i have time i plane to pull the carpet out and inspect but would like to know if theres a common area around where i have the problem. oh and its the same on the passengers side.
AGAIN DO SEARCH - YOU WILL PROBABLY JUST NEED TO MASTIC SOME AREAS.
there is a unkown button on the centre channel that lights up green when i press it, i cannot turn it off untill thecar is turned off, its close to the silver key and is mounted horizontally pointing up. THAT IS LOCKING YOU INTO THE CAR IE PEOPLE CANT PRESS THE ENTRY BUTTON TO GET IN.
the 2 push buttons by the fans knobs? is the blue one for a/c and the red one for rear screen demister? YES
cold air is weak (DO A SEARCH THERE ARE SO MANY THREADS ON THIS) and when i use the hot air the fan in the blower must be chaffing something as it has a horrible whine but it does blow ok ish compared to cold air. how do i get to the blower unit and can i take it out easily? also my ac doesnt work would there be any other reason for this bar gas level and broken compressor?? HAVE YOU GOT AIRCON OR JUST THE BUTTON? IF YOU DO HAVE A COMPRESSOR - CAN YOU HEAR IT CLICK WHEN YOU PRESS THE BUTTON? IT CAN BE EXPENSIVE TO FIX - I WOULD GET IT FIXED BUT I THINK MOST PEOPLE SAVE THE MONEY FOR MORE IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE
my carpets are wet but only on the upright part of the carpet in the front of the footwell after the front edge of the door jam and around the area where a normal cars bonnet realease handle would be. ANY IDEAS WHERES ITS GETTING IN?? i can see some wiring coming from outsdie but cant inspect as the door opens into the area. when i have time i plane to pull the carpet out and inspect but would like to know if theres a common area around where i have the problem. oh and its the same on the passengers side.
AGAIN DO SEARCH - YOU WILL PROBABLY JUST NEED TO MASTIC SOME AREAS.
there is a unkown button on the centre channel that lights up green when i press it, i cannot turn it off untill thecar is turned off, its close to the silver key and is mounted horizontally pointing up. THAT IS LOCKING YOU INTO THE CAR IE PEOPLE CANT PRESS THE ENTRY BUTTON TO GET IN.
the 2 push buttons by the fans knobs? is the blue one for a/c and the red one for rear screen demister? YES
Have commented in CAPS above. Am not shouting though!! G.
Edited by Gazzab on Friday 8th August 11:50
I can't help on the weak Fan blower, but maybe on the leaks.
The first place to check is the Clutch and the Brake fluid reservoirs.
Get some Silicone Seaklant from B&Q
Remove the F1 cover - the one in front of the windscreen - 2 Allen bolts, and lift off.
Cut out the old sealant on the Brake fluid reservoir and re-seal it with the silicone.
Remove the clutch fluid reservoir cover - held in place with 2 self tappers and sealant, and re-seal it.
The first place to check is the Clutch and the Brake fluid reservoirs.
Get some Silicone Seaklant from B&Q
Remove the F1 cover - the one in front of the windscreen - 2 Allen bolts, and lift off.
Cut out the old sealant on the Brake fluid reservoir and re-seal it with the silicone.
Remove the clutch fluid reservoir cover - held in place with 2 self tappers and sealant, and re-seal it.
cupra20v.t said:
there is a unkown button on the centre channel that lights up green when i press it, i cannot turn it off untill thecar is turned off, its close to the silver key and is mounted horizontally pointing up.
Locks the doors.....Stops people from getting in at traffic lights etccupra20v.t said:
the 2 push buttons by the fans knobs? is the blue one for a/c and the red one for rear screen demister?
Yes, red one also activates the heaters in your mirroraRemove, dismantle, clean and reasemble cured my very sluggish hot blower. My cold one could really do with the same treatment now.
For the hot blower (the cold on is in the drivers side footwell)
you dive into the passenger footwell, pull the carpet covered end board out. Remove the various control boxes that fall out, noteing the connections. Then rummage up behind the leather covered scuttle trim over the footwell on the lefthand side to find one wing nut - undo that and a pozidrive screw on the righthand side by the knee vent, then the scuttle panel should come down and out.
Next remove the carpet from the left side of the footwell, untape the looped door release cable and you will see several lines of gaffa tape which are covering the edges of rectangular fiberglass panel. Burried under the tape are several small pozidriv screws. Undo those and a couple of large screws that hold the motor bracket and the panel will come away revealing the motor and box containing the heater matrix inside the cavity in the nearside wing, and in my case no less than 3 carrier bags full of dry leaves!
To remove the motor in order to unsieze it, I ended up partly draining the cooling system (syphon out of the radiator drain plug) then disconnecting the two hoses to the heater matrix, the hot air duct to the dashboard and the electrical connections to the motor. Then you can remove the air box with motor attached. That way you can separate the blower from the box to dismantle it. Reassembly is the reverse etc etc.
For the hot blower (the cold on is in the drivers side footwell)
you dive into the passenger footwell, pull the carpet covered end board out. Remove the various control boxes that fall out, noteing the connections. Then rummage up behind the leather covered scuttle trim over the footwell on the lefthand side to find one wing nut - undo that and a pozidrive screw on the righthand side by the knee vent, then the scuttle panel should come down and out.
Next remove the carpet from the left side of the footwell, untape the looped door release cable and you will see several lines of gaffa tape which are covering the edges of rectangular fiberglass panel. Burried under the tape are several small pozidriv screws. Undo those and a couple of large screws that hold the motor bracket and the panel will come away revealing the motor and box containing the heater matrix inside the cavity in the nearside wing, and in my case no less than 3 carrier bags full of dry leaves!
To remove the motor in order to unsieze it, I ended up partly draining the cooling system (syphon out of the radiator drain plug) then disconnecting the two hoses to the heater matrix, the hot air duct to the dashboard and the electrical connections to the motor. Then you can remove the air box with motor attached. That way you can separate the blower from the box to dismantle it. Reassembly is the reverse etc etc.
The blowers should be blasting air out. In my opinion, getting to them is a pain, it's a day's job. The above explanation is spot on. Mine were also full of leaves etc.
Regarding the leak, there are many points it could be getting in on that side, for example where the temperature gauge sensor enters the engine bay etc. I've got a simple solution, don't go out in the rain
Regarding the leak, there are many points it could be getting in on that side, for example where the temperature gauge sensor enters the engine bay etc. I've got a simple solution, don't go out in the rain
This list might help:
CERBERA WATER LEAK CHECK LIST -circa JANUARY1998
0/5 OF VEHICLE (Front)
1 The grommets which the throttle cable, water temperature capillary tube and brake Servo hose pass through
2 Clutch master cylinder cover
3 Pedal box securing bolts.
4 Brake master cylinder reservoir
5 Bolts securing the bonnet stay rod bracket
6 Oil pipe union
7 Scuttle panel securing riv-nut
8 Brake block mounted on toe-board
9 Grommet in floor pan
10 Bonnet release shaft
11 Door seals
12 Windscreen
13 Bolts securing the bonnet lock bracket
14 Steering column bearing
15 Indicator side repeater
0/5 AND N/S OF VEHICLE (REAR)
1 Door seals
2 Seat belt securing bolts
3 Grommets in floor pan
4 Rear screens
N/S OF VEHICLE (FRONT)
1 Wiring loom grommet (or multi-plug connector on early cars)
2 Grommet for wiper motor wiring .
3 Wiper motor securing bolts
4 Expansion bottle bracket securing bolts
5 Heater pipes
6 Battery Tray securing bolts
7 MAP sensor pipe
8 Riv-nut for scuttle panel
9 Windscreen
10 Door seals
11 Grommets in floor pan
12 Indicator side repeater
BOOT COMPARTMENT
1 Filler neck
2 Boot seal
3 Rear lights
4 Boot lid hinge securing bolts
5 Cerbera badge
6 Boot light switch
A.
CERBERA WATER LEAK CHECK LIST -circa JANUARY1998
0/5 OF VEHICLE (Front)
1 The grommets which the throttle cable, water temperature capillary tube and brake Servo hose pass through
2 Clutch master cylinder cover
3 Pedal box securing bolts.
4 Brake master cylinder reservoir
5 Bolts securing the bonnet stay rod bracket
6 Oil pipe union
7 Scuttle panel securing riv-nut
8 Brake block mounted on toe-board
9 Grommet in floor pan
10 Bonnet release shaft
11 Door seals
12 Windscreen
13 Bolts securing the bonnet lock bracket
14 Steering column bearing
15 Indicator side repeater
0/5 AND N/S OF VEHICLE (REAR)
1 Door seals
2 Seat belt securing bolts
3 Grommets in floor pan
4 Rear screens
N/S OF VEHICLE (FRONT)
1 Wiring loom grommet (or multi-plug connector on early cars)
2 Grommet for wiper motor wiring .
3 Wiper motor securing bolts
4 Expansion bottle bracket securing bolts
5 Heater pipes
6 Battery Tray securing bolts
7 MAP sensor pipe
8 Riv-nut for scuttle panel
9 Windscreen
10 Door seals
11 Grommets in floor pan
12 Indicator side repeater
BOOT COMPARTMENT
1 Filler neck
2 Boot seal
3 Rear lights
4 Boot lid hinge securing bolts
5 Cerbera badge
6 Boot light switch
A.
I dont go out in the rain but the cerb is kept outside for the moment as my garage is full of junk.
i did a bit of investigating and i found that the door rubber upright part that runns parallel with the windscreen pillar was caked with grunge and the rubber was sitting off the fibreglass slighlty so i removed the rubber, took off all the old silicone, cleand all the mud off, squessed the grip part of the rubber together with a pliers so it gripped better around the door frame and refitted. i will see how this holds up. i plan to bond all the door rubbers down properly when the weather gets better (IF)
the peadle ares is bone dry and ive looked at all the bolts holes and they are dry. i removed the driver side footwell/ side carpet and it looked ok behine there so i think its either the door rubbers or the grommet where the wires go from the body to the door. but i cant get a good view there as the door blocks it. is it easy to remove the door.
i dont want to remove it fully, just unbolt and pull away from chasis a bit so i can see in and around the hinge area.
i did a bit of investigating and i found that the door rubber upright part that runns parallel with the windscreen pillar was caked with grunge and the rubber was sitting off the fibreglass slighlty so i removed the rubber, took off all the old silicone, cleand all the mud off, squessed the grip part of the rubber together with a pliers so it gripped better around the door frame and refitted. i will see how this holds up. i plan to bond all the door rubbers down properly when the weather gets better (IF)
the peadle ares is bone dry and ive looked at all the bolts holes and they are dry. i removed the driver side footwell/ side carpet and it looked ok behine there so i think its either the door rubbers or the grommet where the wires go from the body to the door. but i cant get a good view there as the door blocks it. is it easy to remove the door.
i dont want to remove it fully, just unbolt and pull away from chasis a bit so i can see in and around the hinge area.
one small problem im getting now is the boot solenoid,
if i press it once to open the boot the dam thing will go nuts and and keep operating, i try and pull the badge away from the car incase its sticking but this only works sometimes. i pulled the boot carpet away and pulled wires out of the hole they were in and into the boot to check for any shorts but nothing.
any idea why this is happening, it does stop after me fidling with the wires and the badge but im frightened it may pop the boot open while im driving as if i bang the boot lid the solenoid opens so a bump or a bit of sideways may relaese the boot.
Any advice?>
if i press it once to open the boot the dam thing will go nuts and and keep operating, i try and pull the badge away from the car incase its sticking but this only works sometimes. i pulled the boot carpet away and pulled wires out of the hole they were in and into the boot to check for any shorts but nothing.
any idea why this is happening, it does stop after me fidling with the wires and the badge but im frightened it may pop the boot open while im driving as if i bang the boot lid the solenoid opens so a bump or a bit of sideways may relaese the boot.
Any advice?>
Th boot badge is held in place by 2 little nuts, take the badge off and behind it there is a small rubber button (on the ar not the badge) that operates the boot solenoid. If the badge is too tight -ie too close to the rubber button, just a light touuch of the badge makes the solenoid click, this sounds like what has happened to yours. Just adjust the 2 nuts holding the badge on, until you find what is a 'comfortable' push.
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