INTERIOR FAN NOT WORKING AT ALL
Discussion
Hello All
Just taken delivery of a 2003 Elise 111s - in part ex for my Noble.
Really good fun and great induction noise, much easier to feel the power through the accelerator than the Noble - always find turbo cars a little unpredictable power wise.
Anyway its a great car but I noticed that the interior fan does not work at all (car does not have aircon). The previous owner tells me he only used it in the winter to defrost the windscreen, as he always had the roof off in the summer. He is a decent chap so i dont disbelieve him. Have you heard of this before, does the switch get furred up for example. My first guess was fuse but Ive checked and it looks fine, changed it anyway but still no joy.
Searched the forums but seems losing one or more settings is common but this feels like there is literally no power getting to the system
Any ideas, really dont want to get a big bill so early on!
Thanks for your time
Andy
Just taken delivery of a 2003 Elise 111s - in part ex for my Noble.
Really good fun and great induction noise, much easier to feel the power through the accelerator than the Noble - always find turbo cars a little unpredictable power wise.
Anyway its a great car but I noticed that the interior fan does not work at all (car does not have aircon). The previous owner tells me he only used it in the winter to defrost the windscreen, as he always had the roof off in the summer. He is a decent chap so i dont disbelieve him. Have you heard of this before, does the switch get furred up for example. My first guess was fuse but Ive checked and it looks fine, changed it anyway but still no joy.
Searched the forums but seems losing one or more settings is common but this feels like there is literally no power getting to the system
Any ideas, really dont want to get a big bill so early on!
Thanks for your time
Andy
Mine was the same and it was (indeed still is) the resistor pack. Clam off job to fix it, unfortunately. Part is cheap (30 quid or something I think) but a garage will probably charge you the best part of 600 quid in labour. I'm going to do it myself before I need it again in the winter.
ETA: Some people claim it's doable with the clam on if you don't have air conditioning. Someone on SELOC (sign up if you haven't already) is trying to do it at the moment I think and was going to put an article up on the tech wiki if he manages.
ETA: Some people claim it's doable with the clam on if you don't have air conditioning. Someone on SELOC (sign up if you haven't already) is trying to do it at the moment I think and was going to put an article up on the tech wiki if he manages.
Edited by kambites on Thursday 14th August 17:51
same problem on my 2002 111s, I believe with models our age when the resistor pack goes the fan stops working altogether as you described.
With older cars it works but only on full blast
Its a front clam off job, quite doable at home
Can anyone describe how to diagnose this so that I don't buy a new resistor pack only for it to be some other fault?
thanks
With older cars it works but only on full blast
Its a front clam off job, quite doable at home
Can anyone describe how to diagnose this so that I don't buy a new resistor pack only for it to be some other fault?
thanks
Thanks Chaps for all the info. Was this a recall?
If anyone has any thoughts on fixing this at home or links to someone who can do it for a decent amount in the South (any forum members who know there stuff for example??) I'd be most appreciative. I got rid of the Noble to free up some funds and immediately spending more cash is far from ideal, especially as i should have noticed it pre-sale.
Thanks again
If anyone has any thoughts on fixing this at home or links to someone who can do it for a decent amount in the South (any forum members who know there stuff for example??) I'd be most appreciative. I got rid of the Noble to free up some funds and immediately spending more cash is far from ideal, especially as i should have noticed it pre-sale.
Thanks again
Im based in Winchester. I usually use West-Tuning at Thruxton for previous cars.
I think I found the thread on the SELOC technical page and an owner there replaced the resistors (on the fan motor) without removing the clamshell in 4 hours (for non aircon cars). If I knew how to put the link in I would. Dont think Id try to do it myself but if it can be done in four hours it isnt such a big drama to get an expert.
Will look into getting an Auto Electrician to make sure thats what the problem is, then shop around for the best prices. Will post a thread with an update when I can, as this seems to be a problem shared by many owners.
Thanks again for all the info.
Happy Motoring
I think I found the thread on the SELOC technical page and an owner there replaced the resistors (on the fan motor) without removing the clamshell in 4 hours (for non aircon cars). If I knew how to put the link in I would. Dont think Id try to do it myself but if it can be done in four hours it isnt such a big drama to get an expert.
Will look into getting an Auto Electrician to make sure thats what the problem is, then shop around for the best prices. Will post a thread with an update when I can, as this seems to be a problem shared by many owners.
Thanks again for all the info.
Happy Motoring
Read this with interest Spellman as my 111s of the same year that I collected last week has the exact same problem 
So frustrating that it needs so much effort for such a small part.
That link would be of great intertest to me...to do it with the clam on.
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HTH
Nick
So frustrating that it needs so much effort for such a small part.
That link would be of great intertest to me...to do it with the clam on.
Pasting links:
To high lite the text, drag your cursor over the link text whilst holding the left click.
Press Ctrl and C (this copies the text)
Then go to the forum reply box and press Ctrl V (this allows you to view the text)
Post your entry.
HTH
Nick
spellman / nick,
It is indeed possible to change the resistor pack on a S2 elise w/o aircon w/o removing the clam. It's about 1:30/2:00 labour. I know this as I helped the tech who did mine do it - it took an extra pair of hands to get it back in, my word what a pain!
TBH I doubt an auto electrician will be much cop, I'd get it to a lotus specialist who knows what they are doing. You do not need to get the clam off BUT it is a b
h of a job. If someone tries to do it without having done it before they will not succeed - it really is toighter than a snakes exit in there to get it all done.
IIRC I paid around 180 inc vat for parts&labour doing mine, but got a great rate - certainly much better than the '400quid mate, clam off' that was common perception of the job!
Stu
It is indeed possible to change the resistor pack on a S2 elise w/o aircon w/o removing the clam. It's about 1:30/2:00 labour. I know this as I helped the tech who did mine do it - it took an extra pair of hands to get it back in, my word what a pain!
TBH I doubt an auto electrician will be much cop, I'd get it to a lotus specialist who knows what they are doing. You do not need to get the clam off BUT it is a b
h of a job. If someone tries to do it without having done it before they will not succeed - it really is toighter than a snakes exit in there to get it all done.IIRC I paid around 180 inc vat for parts&labour doing mine, but got a great rate - certainly much better than the '400quid mate, clam off' that was common perception of the job!
Stu
Elite cars in Foxton.
http://www.elitemotorgroup.co.uk/contact.asp
Tell Terry you want to do it without taking the clam off. He'll warn that it's not always possible, and sometimes clam does have to come off, but they'll give it a shot for you. We nearly gave up on mine and took clam off, but got it in the end when we realised where it was fouling. My guess is he'd be better at it now as he learned where else to look and file back if required
Shoudn't need o/n to do it, just a couple/3 hours.
Stu
http://www.elitemotorgroup.co.uk/contact.asp
Tell Terry you want to do it without taking the clam off. He'll warn that it's not always possible, and sometimes clam does have to come off, but they'll give it a shot for you. We nearly gave up on mine and took clam off, but got it in the end when we realised where it was fouling. My guess is he'd be better at it now as he learned where else to look and file back if required
Shoudn't need o/n to do it, just a couple/3 hours.
Stu
Edited by stuthemong on Wednesday 27th August 13:13
kambites said:
Mine was the same and it was (indeed still is) the resistor pack. Clam off job to fix it, unfortunately. Part is cheap (30 quid or something I think) but a garage will probably charge you the best part of 600 quid in labour. I'm going to do it myself before I need it again in the winter.
ETA: Some people claim it's doable with the clam on if you don't have air conditioning. Someone on SELOC (sign up if you haven't already) is trying to do it at the moment I think and was going to put an article up on the tech wiki if he manages.
Ditto for mine 2 . ETA: Some people claim it's doable with the clam on if you don't have air conditioning. Someone on SELOC (sign up if you haven't already) is trying to do it at the moment I think and was going to put an article up on the tech wiki if he manages.
Edited by kambites on Thursday 14th August 17:51
I found my post on SELOC about this:
______________________
UPDATE FWIW:
Managed to get this sorted today, was the resistor pack that failed. Done at Elite *without* taking the clam off. 2.5hours labour and a new pack, total 173quid - better than I had feared.
Of course a lot of the nuts had siezed holding the brackets down, so they had to be cut out and new mounting grommets used. If you try to DIY this youll want some of the spare 'internally threaded rivets' (for want of a better term) in case you have the same issue.
It's very tight in there, but to get it out was just undo brackets and clamps and a pull (after removing washer resevoir). Pack replaced, and tested prior to reassembly, then masticked up for protection. Refitting was a PITA as we had to work out what was fouling the *Blimmin* heater box when trying to refit the thing, watch the rivets on the NS cabin side, and also we had to file down a couple of bits of ally protuding on the DS front edge to stop the box fouling on its way back in. We finally got it back, in two of us, with me pushing the box down on the NS (watching that rivet), and Jamie manouvering the box to miss a couple of internal edges which were stopping the box spin around into place (apparently pushing toward teh cabin helped).
It's a bloody pain getting it back in like that, but saves dismantling the car.
Stu
______________________
UPDATE FWIW:
Managed to get this sorted today, was the resistor pack that failed. Done at Elite *without* taking the clam off. 2.5hours labour and a new pack, total 173quid - better than I had feared.
Of course a lot of the nuts had siezed holding the brackets down, so they had to be cut out and new mounting grommets used. If you try to DIY this youll want some of the spare 'internally threaded rivets' (for want of a better term) in case you have the same issue.
It's very tight in there, but to get it out was just undo brackets and clamps and a pull (after removing washer resevoir). Pack replaced, and tested prior to reassembly, then masticked up for protection. Refitting was a PITA as we had to work out what was fouling the *Blimmin* heater box when trying to refit the thing, watch the rivets on the NS cabin side, and also we had to file down a couple of bits of ally protuding on the DS front edge to stop the box fouling on its way back in. We finally got it back, in two of us, with me pushing the box down on the NS (watching that rivet), and Jamie manouvering the box to miss a couple of internal edges which were stopping the box spin around into place (apparently pushing toward teh cabin helped).
It's a bloody pain getting it back in like that, but saves dismantling the car.
Stu
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