Are manifold gaskets fitted dry ?
Discussion
Do we think that Exhaust Manifold gaskets should be fitted dry or with some compound of some sort ? The ones that came off were like a thick bit of card and the ones that are going on appear to be three layers of something metallic and look like they should be a lot more compliant.
Mr Heath in his extensive tome says use a compound but my gut feeling with these metallic ones is not. What is the collective opinion before I tighten the bolts.
Mr Heath in his extensive tome says use a compound but my gut feeling with these metallic ones is not. What is the collective opinion before I tighten the bolts.
I’ve not used the metal backed ones yet, though will do next time.
The last time I did replace mine I used Hylomer Blue, which may not actually help the seal as it is beyond its temp limits, but it made them much easier to fit by sticking them in place while I got all the bolts in.
I future I would always use it for just to make the job easier, can’t do any harm, can it ?
The last time I did replace mine I used Hylomer Blue, which may not actually help the seal as it is beyond its temp limits, but it made them much easier to fit by sticking them in place while I got all the bolts in.
I future I would always use it for just to make the job easier, can’t do any harm, can it ?
Steve
Those sound like the 3 part LR ones which mant are not a fan of as you tend to get leaks between the layers. They're better than the card ones you've taken off which are s
te.
I'd say go for ACT's metallic ones which sandwich a composite.
I always use a light smear of exhaust assemby paste to heal seal them up and never assemble them dry. It really is a minimum rather than a whole bunch of the stuff. I find it helps in the unevenness of corrosion spots etc . . .
Those sound like the 3 part LR ones which mant are not a fan of as you tend to get leaks between the layers. They're better than the card ones you've taken off which are s
te.I'd say go for ACT's metallic ones which sandwich a composite.
I always use a light smear of exhaust assemby paste to heal seal them up and never assemble them dry. It really is a minimum rather than a whole bunch of the stuff. I find it helps in the unevenness of corrosion spots etc . . .
http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/43/exhaust-manif...
these here are the ones, best I`ve used so far, I use a high temp silicon just to help hold them in place on the heads, as Johno says it helps seal up any nasty pitting as well.
get some of these nordlock washers as well , http://www.racestuff.co.uk/www.racestuff.co.uk/inf...
they do make a big difference on the bolts coming loose.
these here are the ones, best I`ve used so far, I use a high temp silicon just to help hold them in place on the heads, as Johno says it helps seal up any nasty pitting as well.
get some of these nordlock washers as well , http://www.racestuff.co.uk/www.racestuff.co.uk/inf...
they do make a big difference on the bolts coming loose.
The ones I have look like the ones in the link. I generally use Hermatite (or however it is spelt) red for most things but that is 250c max and the jointing paste I have says for joints not gasket surfaces so think I am going to go with dry. The gaskets look compliant enough to take up any pitting.
clive f said:
http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/43/exhaust-manif...
these here are the ones, best I`ve used so far, I use a high temp silicon just to help hold them in place on the heads, as Johno says it helps seal up any nasty pitting as well.
get some of these nordlock washers as well , http://www.racestuff.co.uk/www.racestuff.co.uk/inf...
they do make a big difference on the bolts coming loose.
Yep i have to agree with Asbo Fordy on this these here are the ones, best I`ve used so far, I use a high temp silicon just to help hold them in place on the heads, as Johno says it helps seal up any nasty pitting as well.
get some of these nordlock washers as well , http://www.racestuff.co.uk/www.racestuff.co.uk/inf...
they do make a big difference on the bolts coming loose.
ETA And Johno
Edited by Pasco on Saturday 16th August 12:57
Pasco said:
clive f said:
http://www.tvrspareparts.com/part/43/exhaust-manif...
these here are the ones, best I`ve used so far, I use a high temp silicon just to help hold them in place on the heads, as Johno says it helps seal up any nasty pitting as well.
get some of these nordlock washers as well , http://www.racestuff.co.uk/www.racestuff.co.uk/inf...
they do make a big difference on the bolts coming loose.
Yep i have to agree with Asbo Fordy on this these here are the ones, best I`ve used so far, I use a high temp silicon just to help hold them in place on the heads, as Johno says it helps seal up any nasty pitting as well.
get some of these nordlock washers as well , http://www.racestuff.co.uk/www.racestuff.co.uk/inf...
they do make a big difference on the bolts coming loose.
ETA And Johno
steve-V8s said:
Ok Ok I give in, I took it off again and put some gunge on it.
Hmm, are you telling porkies just to keep us quiet, we`ll send the spanish inquisition around you know
some of you must remember the monty python sketch?
the spanners are a bit of a pain, standard 9/16" fit nicely into a 14mm, so you can get a half moon shaped spanner, but the 3/8" heads used on the newer bolts which are much better, dont fit well in a metric spanner, so can only use a decent 3/8" long spanner which is best, but you have to get underneath, unless of course you have long fingers that can bend in all directions like octopus tentacles, or buy a couple of spanners and bend them about and weld them so they fit.
I searched on ebay for imperial half moon spanners, even in the states where imperial is still the norm but no luck, unless someone knows better.
Grover," Quiet Pasco" has more spanners than most of us put together, but 99% off them are still in the wrappers
I should know, I borrowed one once and forgot to wrap it back up an got a b
king!Edited by clive f on Saturday 16th August 15:03
clive f said:
I searched on ebay for imperial half moon spanners, even in the states where imperial is still the norm but no luck, unless someone knows better.
They're often called obstruction spanners. I got mine from baconsdozen who seem to stock just about every type of spanner ever made. I assume you're changing to the K-head ARP bolts, in which case a set of fine ratchet ring spanners is highly recommended too. You won't get them all the bolts, but on the ones you can it makes the job much much faster.
GreenV8S said:
clive f said:
I searched on ebay for imperial half moon spanners, even in the states where imperial is still the norm but no luck, unless someone knows better.
They're often called obstruction spanners. I got mine from baconsdozen who seem to stock just about every type of spanner ever made. I assume you're changing to the K-head ARP bolts, in which case a set of fine ratchet ring spanners is highly recommended too. You won't get them all the bolts, but on the ones you can it makes the job much much faster. 3/8 stubby ratchet spanner with a stock 3/8 combination to nip up on the ARP bolts works for me 
just fitted a set of the ACT gaskets to a guys Griff 500 and with the ARP bolts its a proper job 
i have the Reinz gaskets and ARP bolts fitted to my brothers car and mine,but with these they did need a couple of nip ups over the 1st couple of thousand miles 
so would go with ACT metal ones next time,i would say the Reinz gaskets(Real Steel)would be more tolerent to pitted flanges an minor flange warpage though all IMHO of course 
Edited by That Daddy on Sunday 17th August 07:40
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