Impreza dilemma

[A.G.]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 06 December 2018 at 21:20

[GravelBen]

Not being in th UK I have no experience of P1s, but personally I'd be inclined to go for an STi-RA V-ltd. Whichever version you like, I think many people consider the ver.5 to be the best but I prefer the ver.2 myself.

PS try www.type-ra.co.uk or bbs.22b.com for more info on the JDM versions.

Edited by GravelBen on Tuesday 19th August 22:00

[dnb]

The P1 was definitely the wrong option for me. They're nice cars, but IMHO they are over-rated when compared to the STi v5 type RA Ltd, the STi v5 type R Ltd (or the 22B, but these are quite a bit more money!)

You lose the DCCD and trick diffs from the type RA in favour of ABS a bit of body kit and slightly longer gear ratios. Not a good trade if it's supposed to be a car for evening/weekend fun and occasional commuting!

(Check my profile to see how biassed I am... )

Edited by dnb on Tuesday 19th August 23:15

[Vixpy1]

dnb said:

The P1 was definitely the wrong option for me. They're nice cars, but IMHO they are over-rated when compared to the STi v5 type RA Ltd, the STi v5 type R Ltd (or the 22B, but these are quite a bit more money!)

[Martin_Hx]

Arent the P1's silly servicing aswell ? Or is it around every 6K ?

The Type-R seems to be a good'un you can pick up for about 8-9k for a good'un.

Was looking at the Clio V6's myself, the 255 ones still fetch good money Too much for moi at the moment anyway

Suppose it depends on what money you want to spend.

[dnb]

Service is every 6k miles.

The only difference between servicing a P1 and a type RA/R is that the gear oil needs to be changed about half as often in the P1.

[dnb]

Not all of them are Limited. These were special editions.

[paul555sti]

Did somebody say version 2

There are still some good ones out there.



300/300 not bad for a 13 year old.

[GravelBen]

A.G. said:

...TBH I was drawn to the P1 as it's different being a 2 door...

GravelBen - The v2s are all knocking on a bit now but everyone seems to rate the v5s highly. Am I right in thinking that the v6 is virtually the same car?

The Type-R is 2-door as well, they based the P1 on the ver5 Type-R.

All the classic STi-RAs were pretty similar in terms of spec, but basically each newer version became slightly heavier (starting from 1180 and growing to 1270 by ver6 iirc), with more torque (especially lower down) and officially the same 280hp but generally a bit more power as well.

Engine specs changed here and there (ie after ver3 were no longer closed-deck block) as did diffs etc but I forget most details of what changed when.

http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/wrx.html

Has some useful info on different versions if you have the time to look through it.

Edited by GravelBen on Thursday 21st August 22:25

[Martin_Hx]

GravelBen said:

http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/wrx.html

Has some useful info on different versions if you have the time to look through it.

Edited by GravelBen on Wednesday 20th August 22:32

Cheers Ben, think ill have a gander at that myself, bit of a minefield these Impreza's

Still unsure to go for a Scooby or Skyline

[Alec]

I'd think something like this might suit, http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_...

[GravelBen]

A.G. said:

GravelBen said:

Engine specs changed here and there (ie after ver3 were no longer closed-deck block) as did diffs etc but I forget most details of what changed when.

What this closed deck business all about then?

Well I can't really be bothered explaining it (try google) but effectively it means the block is stronger, handy if you're going for big power. For most people though its just bragging rights, along with assorted other homologation bits such as the ver2 5th injector (which isn't actually used at all on the road cars).

[GravelBen]

Another useful link with a clearer table so you can check chassis codes of cars you're looking at and know which version they actually are - for example often people will sell a WRX-RA as an STi-RA, but the STi has much higher spec engine, DCCD etc.

And this list is straight from the horses mouth...

http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/product/impreza/list.h...

[cw42]

Does it have to be a classic shape?
Did a quick search in the ads for an 8-10k car, 2001-2004 and sti and came up with 3 pages of cars! It's a buyers market out there, and the newage is a much nice prospect to live with than a classic (Biased of course )

what more could you want?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/650892.htm

[Smifffy]

Having had a P1 and now owning a 22b, I would say that the P1 is by far the more accomplished car in standard form. It's taken me a lot of work and cash to get the 22b to a better spec.

The P1 is a great car but beware those that haven't had an engine rebuild. This is well documented elsewhere so I won't re-start the debate here.

For 10k I *personally* would absolutely go for the P1. It's down to personal preference if you prefer the shorter, more manic, gearing of the Type RA (Which the 22b shares). The P1 did have the longer UK gearing which feels more dull initially, but on a day to day usability basis I found it to be pretty much perfect. No it doesn't have the DCCD, but how many times do most owners actually use this on the road?

The RB5 would be another great choice. It's superbly balanced, but given today's much higher power outputs from modern cars I wonder if it might start to feel a little slow in the old motorway grand prix stakes etc.

[GravelBen]

Smifffy said:

No it doesn't have the DCCD, but how many times do most owners actually use this on the road?

Depends what sort of roads you drive on. Not that I have DCCD (being a Legacy driver), but if I did I'd use it. I think of it as the best of both worlds really, when set to open they behave pretty much as a RWD car, then you wind it forward as you get into conditions where you want the extra stability and traction of AWD. DCCD does both extremes far better than a 50:50 VC Subaru, you just have to know how to use it.

[Kuroblack350]

Smifffy said:

Having had a P1 and now owning a 22b, I would say that the P1 is by far the more accomplished car in standard form. It's taken me a lot of work and cash to get the 22b to a better spec.

The P1 is a great car but beware those that haven't had an engine rebuild. This is well documented elsewhere so I won't re-start the debate here.

For 10k I *personally* would absolutely go for the P1. It's down to personal preference if you prefer the shorter, more manic, gearing of the Type RA (Which the 22b shares). The P1 did have the longer UK gearing which feels more dull initially, but on a day to day usability basis I found it to be pretty much perfect. No it doesn't have the DCCD, but how many times do most owners actually use this on the road?

The RB5 would be another great choice. It's superbly balanced, but given today's much higher power outputs from modern cars I wonder if it might start to feel a little slow in the old motorway grand prix stakes etc.

Won't the P1 be pre-set for UK grade fuel as well ?

Sounds like a small consideration, but at least you won't be messing with octane booster with every fill up

I thought the P1 service intervals were the same as standard anyway? My old MY00 was every 7.5k or 6 months if I remember correctly...

[DaveV6]

If you want a car that is the Subaru equivilent of a TVR then you need to try and get a drive in a V-Limited version 5/6 Type RA or Type R. They should come with the quickest steering rack (2.25, standard UK is 3 turns) and along with the DCCD makes for a great back road car. I used the DCCD on my 22b on a regular basis, helps with braking (locking the diff makes it harder to lock a single wheel), reducing understeer and actually moving forwards in snow.

Just make sure its been re-mapped for UK fuel and looked after by the previous owner and it should be as reliable as a Toyota Hilux.

If you'd prefer a car you can relax in then the 4/5 door STI, P1, RB5 or standard UK turbo would suit that role.

[Smifffy]

Interesting - I rarely use the DCCD, but I do tend to move it forwards when it's wet or I'm on a crappy surface. My 22b can be quite unforgiving when the rear snaps away so safety first is the mantra.

[GravelBen]

Smifffy said:

Interesting - I rarely use the DCCD, but I do tend to move it forwards when it's wet or I'm on a crappy surface.

[pedant]
Well really you use it every time you drive the car, you just don't adjust it every time.
[/pedant]

When wound back its still a very different kettle of fish to a 50:50 viscous centre Subaru - 64:36 rear-biased with open centre (and a fairly agressive rear LSD if its like the RAs), when the rears spin thats where the power goes (due to nature of open diff), hence RWD behaviour. Winding forward not only moves the torque split toward 50:50 but also increases the centre diff locking action, reducing how much power goes to spinning wheels - up to complete lockup where both axles have to spin at the same speed.

Apologies if you know this already (not meaning to sound condescending at all) but many people misunderstand what the DCCD actually does.