Discussion
To be honest mate if you're looking at getting a turbo its best to just take each car on its own merits rather than make a decision based on revision or model. Look at the history of the vehicle closely, too many people (generally those who have never owned an mr2) are quick to rule out the earlier revisions (1989-1993 models)I'd sooner have a low mileage well looked after Rev 1 than a higher mileage possibly dubious Rev 3 or 4. I've got a 1992 Rev 2 Turbo, I bought it 3 years ago with 54k on the clock and apart from a dodgy knock sensor it hasn't missed a beat. All modifications on the car are highly regarded and well carried out and once I pick up my fuel cut defencer from Fensport it should be good for a safe 290hp at the fly.
There are loads for sale at the mo' so hold out for a good'un.
There are loads for sale at the mo' so hold out for a good'un.
Edited by MikeyMike on Wednesday 20th August 23:45
MikeyMike said:
All modifications on the car are highly regarded and well carried out and once I pick up my fuel cut defencer from Fensport it should be good for a safe 290hp at the fly.
Must be quite a lot of mods. Most rev1 & 2's when dyno'd as stock disapoint owners producing only about 210bhp. To get 290bhp you won't be on the stock turbo. Edited by MikeyMike on Wednesday 20th August 23:45
Herman Toothrot said:
MikeyMike said:
All modifications on the car are highly regarded and well carried out and once I pick up my fuel cut defencer from Fensport it should be good for a safe 290hp at the fly.
Must be quite a lot of mods. Most rev1 & 2's when dyno'd as stock disapoint owners producing only about 210bhp. To get 290bhp you won't be on the stock turbo. Edited by MikeyMike on Wednesday 20th August 23:45
RadTec form Rogues £100 more than the ST205 and better, one to consider. I'd certainly not run 1.2 Bar without upgraded cooling.
I used to run an Owen Developments stage 1 hybrid at 1 Bar with Greddy side mount, combined with a poor tune from a once respected Toyota Specialist was enough to crack the pistons.
I used to run an Owen Developments stage 1 hybrid at 1 Bar with Greddy side mount, combined with a poor tune from a once respected Toyota Specialist was enough to crack the pistons.
Wadeski said:
if you have come from an MX-5, drive a turbo...a UK model wont feel any faster than your car. although it will be more comfortable. Turbo = huge grin.
No, my TVR Tamora 4.0L = Very very extremely huge grinMy MR2 MK2 = driving a bus, but I'd never sell my MR2, it's a reliable brilliance
Edited by icraigmy on Friday 22 August 01:01
icraigmy said:
Wadeski said:
if you have come from an MX-5, drive a turbo...a UK model wont feel any faster than your car. although it will be more comfortable. Turbo = huge grin.
No, my TVR Tamora 4.0L = Very very extremely huge grinMy MR2 MK2 = driving a bus, but I'd never sell my MR2, it's a reliable brilliance
Edited by icraigmy on Friday 22 August 01:01
OlberJ said:
Unbeatable till it goes bang and then you see where your buck's going.
If you're getting a turbo, either pay the money for a good, well cared for one or be prepared to spend money fixing it.
Be that a new turbo, or a V6.
Fair point.If you're getting a turbo, either pay the money for a good, well cared for one or be prepared to spend money fixing it.
Be that a new turbo, or a V6.
Buying a turbo is within many people's reach financially.
The costs of keeping it properly maintained and looked after is something else.
If you don't have the funds to do that it often ends in tears.
There are plenty around which clearly show a lack of tlc.
It's a step up from a hot hatch in more ways than one.
Get the rev3 (1994 was cross over year) if you're planning on getting power.
The engine was strengthened in several areas (including steel head gasket). The turbo is also uprated and more powerful.
With a piggy back ECU, manual boost controller and hybrid turbo I was running @ 294bhp. You'd need much more equipment to do this on a pre-1994 model. It will work out cheaper trust me.
The engine was strengthened in several areas (including steel head gasket). The turbo is also uprated and more powerful.
With a piggy back ECU, manual boost controller and hybrid turbo I was running @ 294bhp. You'd need much more equipment to do this on a pre-1994 model. It will work out cheaper trust me.
I had a Rev2 Turbo a while back and when I took it to get chipped, they put it on the rolling road and it was making a paltry 189bhp at the fly! I got it boosted to just over 230bhp and was happy with that.
It was an otherwise excellent car. Had two aftermarket parts on it when I bought it and in all the time I had it, it developed two faults.
1). Aftermarket Kosei wheels were porous and didn't hold air
2). Aftermarket alarm/immobiliser drained the battery
It was an otherwise excellent car. Had two aftermarket parts on it when I bought it and in all the time I had it, it developed two faults.
1). Aftermarket Kosei wheels were porous and didn't hold air
2). Aftermarket alarm/immobiliser drained the battery
I used to run a rev 3 Turbo. Great bang for buck as stated but I would say not cheap to maintain if they go wrong. Lots of parts have to be imported. Take the glass in the windows, all pretty normal I thought with a slight tint, but hey when one got smashed, the only place you could get a replacement at the time was Japan Cost about £400 I think.
I had to have the clutch done as well, not cheap again, near £1000 I think. Rear wheel bearings were a pain as well I seem to remember. Oh and don't forget the gear box issues, synchromesh in 2nd can be a problem also expensive to fix.
All in all good car until they go wrong!
I had to have the clutch done as well, not cheap again, near £1000 I think. Rear wheel bearings were a pain as well I seem to remember. Oh and don't forget the gear box issues, synchromesh in 2nd can be a problem also expensive to fix.
All in all good car until they go wrong!
Hoonfest said:
I used to run a rev 3 Turbo. Great bang for buck as stated but I would say not cheap to maintain if they go wrong. Lots of parts have to be imported. Take the glass in the windows, all pretty normal I thought with a slight tint, but hey when one got smashed, the only place you could get a replacement at the time was Japan Cost about £400 I think.
I had to have the clutch done as well, not cheap again, near £1000 I think. Rear wheel bearings were a pain as well I seem to remember. Oh and don't forget the gear box issues, synchromesh in 2nd can be a problem also expensive to fix.
All in all good car until they go wrong!
ummm...this is total arse.I had to have the clutch done as well, not cheap again, near £1000 I think. Rear wheel bearings were a pain as well I seem to remember. Oh and don't forget the gear box issues, synchromesh in 2nd can be a problem also expensive to fix.
All in all good car until they go wrong!
Hoonfest said:
I used to run a rev 3 Turbo. Great bang for buck as stated but I would say not cheap to maintain if they go wrong. Lots of parts have to be imported. Take the glass in the windows, all pretty normal I thought with a slight tint, but hey when one got smashed, the only place you could get a replacement at the time was Japan Cost about £400 I think.
I had to have the clutch done as well, not cheap again, near £1000 I think. Rear wheel bearings were a pain as well I seem to remember. Oh and don't forget the gear box issues, synchromesh in 2nd can be a problem also expensive to fix.
All in all good car until they go wrong!
With those prices its sounds to me like you've been s*****d over big time by Mr T.I had to have the clutch done as well, not cheap again, near £1000 I think. Rear wheel bearings were a pain as well I seem to remember. Oh and don't forget the gear box issues, synchromesh in 2nd can be a problem also expensive to fix.
All in all good car until they go wrong!
Imports have bronze tinted windows whereas UK cars have blue. No need to go to Japan for glass.
Plenty of imports being broken for parts due to young/inexperienced drivers stacking them into the scenery.
No way would a clutch change alone cost £1k if you took it to an MR2 specialist.
The best investment I ever made with mine was to join an owners club.
Lots of help and info on where to find stuff/who to go to/etc.
Hey everyone, don't wanna start a new thread so hoping it's okay if I hijack this one a little. How can I tell if the engine is a turbo or not? Looking at an MR2 on ebay at the moment and it's described as a GT. According to parkers this means its a Sports 2d at 168 bhp? I thought the turbos were closer to 200 odd brake?
Pictures of the car in question. Is this a rev 2? Help!
Will take a look at the mr2oc now, thanks.
Pictures of the car in question. Is this a rev 2? Help!
Will take a look at the mr2oc now, thanks.
Edited by Darkslider on Friday 12th September 18:47
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