Help me with my P38 please.
Discussion
Good Morning
I have a W reg P38, it worked fine for ages and then this year it has developed problems.
It started with the alarm randomly going off which drained the battery (this problem was apparently never replicated at the garage), followed shortly after with a problem where it just wont start. lights come on the dash but it refuses to turn over. It has been to the garage 4 times with this problem. At first they replaced the BCU and then tried to replace the ECU but "their equiptment wont talk to our car so they cant install a new ECU". Each time it has come back from the garage, it's worked fine for about a week and then the problem has come back. The garage have sugested that "there may be some car in your neighborhood that uses a simlar alarm frequency and so our car is shutting it's self down to protect it's self". Each stint at the garage has been between 1 and 2 months. I most recently got the car back on Wednesday. It all seemed to be working fine and then this morning I jumped in it, having not used it since it returned and it's totaly dead. this time the lights on the dash dont even come on.
Someone please help me. I'm trying to get it working so that I can sell it as we are planning to move country in the next couple of months.
Mark
I have a W reg P38, it worked fine for ages and then this year it has developed problems.
It started with the alarm randomly going off which drained the battery (this problem was apparently never replicated at the garage), followed shortly after with a problem where it just wont start. lights come on the dash but it refuses to turn over. It has been to the garage 4 times with this problem. At first they replaced the BCU and then tried to replace the ECU but "their equiptment wont talk to our car so they cant install a new ECU". Each time it has come back from the garage, it's worked fine for about a week and then the problem has come back. The garage have sugested that "there may be some car in your neighborhood that uses a simlar alarm frequency and so our car is shutting it's self down to protect it's self". Each stint at the garage has been between 1 and 2 months. I most recently got the car back on Wednesday. It all seemed to be working fine and then this morning I jumped in it, having not used it since it returned and it's totaly dead. this time the lights on the dash dont even come on.
Someone please help me. I'm trying to get it working so that I can sell it as we are planning to move country in the next couple of months.
Mark
Thanks for the responce.
They put a new battery in about 5 months ago when they replaced the BECU. I'm wondering if, the 2 months that it's been at the garage have been spent sitting around doing very little and the new Battery is now knackerd. I have a charger, would a normal charger do the job on that battery? it's huge.
Also if I do charge it. should I disconnect the battery from the car first or is it ok to just attatch the charger as it is?
Mark
They put a new battery in about 5 months ago when they replaced the BECU. I'm wondering if, the 2 months that it's been at the garage have been spent sitting around doing very little and the new Battery is now knackerd. I have a charger, would a normal charger do the job on that battery? it's huge.
Also if I do charge it. should I disconnect the battery from the car first or is it ok to just attatch the charger as it is?
Mark
Mark,
Are you suffering from the "Mysterious Battery Drain" problem?
Well documented on rangerovers.net
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrica...
Basically the alarm fob reciever responds to all manner of radio/electrical signals (rather than just your keyfob) and every time it "sees" a signal, it wakes up the BECM to see if it the correct signal to unlock/disalarm the car. If not, the car stays secure and alarmed, but the BECM stays awake for two minutes (obviously draining the battery a little) before shutting down again. Seconds later, the reciever gets another signal, wakes up the BECM etc etc etc.
I had exactly the same problem (battery going flat after a couple of days, and totally dead - as in won't even unlock remotely - after three or so days)
The fix is an upgraded reciever for the remote keyfob - should be around £150 fit from a specialist - maybe more at a main stealer.
The upgraded reciever came out in 2004 (after the P38 production run had finished), and has been superceded since the intital "fix" so would be worth checking to see if yours has been done.
My local indy replaced mine at the last service, and have not had a single problem since - even though at one point the car stood at home untouched for over a week.
ETA: Even though you haven't had the problem previously, it could be that a "new" radio signal or similar is now floating around your area which is affecting the reciever - I've heard that wireless internet connections can cause this problem (not sure how true that is)
May be worth jump starting the car, give it a good run to charge the battery, then park up elsewhere (parents or friends?) for a couple of days and see if the problems still remains.
Are you suffering from the "Mysterious Battery Drain" problem?
Well documented on rangerovers.net
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrica...
Basically the alarm fob reciever responds to all manner of radio/electrical signals (rather than just your keyfob) and every time it "sees" a signal, it wakes up the BECM to see if it the correct signal to unlock/disalarm the car. If not, the car stays secure and alarmed, but the BECM stays awake for two minutes (obviously draining the battery a little) before shutting down again. Seconds later, the reciever gets another signal, wakes up the BECM etc etc etc.
I had exactly the same problem (battery going flat after a couple of days, and totally dead - as in won't even unlock remotely - after three or so days)
The fix is an upgraded reciever for the remote keyfob - should be around £150 fit from a specialist - maybe more at a main stealer.
The upgraded reciever came out in 2004 (after the P38 production run had finished), and has been superceded since the intital "fix" so would be worth checking to see if yours has been done.
My local indy replaced mine at the last service, and have not had a single problem since - even though at one point the car stood at home untouched for over a week.
ETA: Even though you haven't had the problem previously, it could be that a "new" radio signal or similar is now floating around your area which is affecting the reciever - I've heard that wireless internet connections can cause this problem (not sure how true that is)
May be worth jump starting the car, give it a good run to charge the battery, then park up elsewhere (parents or friends?) for a couple of days and see if the problems still remains.
Edited by Meeja on Friday 22 August 10:57
Steve_D said:
The home remote weather stations you can buy also do the same thing and it my not even be yours.
Is it possible to just remove the antenna to prove or disprove the module being the problem?
Steve
yes it is - just disconnect the aerial from the reciever - it is mounted in the boot, behind the right hand side panel cover - look around where the OSR selt belt reel is, and you'll not be far away.Is it possible to just remove the antenna to prove or disprove the module being the problem?
Steve
Disconnecting it means you need to be closer to the car to operate the remote - and it eliminates stray reception, and thus battery drain in some cases.
Didn't work in my case sadly - replacement reciever was the only way to go.....
Thanks so much guys. this gives me a few things to try. I'll still need to get some juice in the thing first though. Should I leave everything connected when i charge the battery up or disconnect it all. I'm sure I read somewhere that it can cause electrical damage to charge a battery when it's connected to the car.
Beechy said:
Thanks so much guys. this gives me a few things to try. I'll still need to get some juice in the thing first though. Should I leave everything connected when i charge the battery up or disconnect it all. I'm sure I read somewhere that it can cause electrical damage to charge a battery when it's connected to the car.
removing a battery to charge it is always best, but with something as complex as the P38, I'm not sure what effect it may have on the electronics for it to have no power at all for a prolonged period.Might be worth connecting a smaller battery when you remove the real one to charge it - that way the electronics will get the minimum power they require to remain active. Obviously don't try to start the car with the replacement battery!
Edited by Meeja on Friday 22 August 14:09
There's a bit of a procedure when taking the battery off a P38. The summary is which is "for christ's sake, don't leave the key in the car with the door shut". It has a habit of firing the locks when the battery is reconnected. You may also need your Emergency unlock code (on the radio code card) to sort the alarm out after the battery is reconnected.
I charged mine's battery still connected and it was OK.
I charged mine's battery still connected and it was OK.
After months of jump starting my P38 last year I eventually discovered the antenna solution and the instant that I disconnected the alarm ariel it solved the problem.
I have gone from it draining if left standing for 12 hours to be able to leave it for weeks and still start on the button.
I do have to press the key fob to the rear window to make it work but that is minor inconvenience compared to jump starting it every day.
I have gone from it draining if left standing for 12 hours to be able to leave it for weeks and still start on the button.
I do have to press the key fob to the rear window to make it work but that is minor inconvenience compared to jump starting it every day.
pontypool said:
......I do have to press the key fob to the rear window to make it work but that is minor inconvenience compared to jump starting it every day.
Have you tried holding the remote to the underside of your chin?Cue loud laughter.
Apparently it uses your skull as an antenna and boosts the remotes signal.
Have used it with cars of mine allowing the car to be opened from a greater distance.
Steve
Steve_D said:
pontypool said:
......I do have to press the key fob to the rear window to make it work but that is minor inconvenience compared to jump starting it every day.
Have you tried holding the remote to the underside of your chin?Cue loud laughter.
Apparently it uses your skull as an antenna and boosts the remotes signal.
Have used it with cars of mine allowing the car to be opened from a greater distance.
Steve
I've tried to do it with a couple of my cars ober the years without ever having any success.
Maybe it's telling me something about what my head is made of......
Beechy said:
Cheers guys, it all seems to be working now it's charged up again.
I'm still struggling to find the arial though. Is it labled?
Mark
I'm still struggling to find the arial though. Is it labled?
Mark
Picture of the receiver once the trim has been removed - IIRC the aerial is built into the OSR windowm, and on that pic is connected via the blue cable at the bottom of the pic
Have you got it all sorted now then?
How come everyone else's Battery Drain problems caused by the reciever is able to be fixed by disconnecting the aerial..... except mine?!!
Having said that, with the upgraded receiver fitted, I never have any fear of a flat battery - even on return to it in an airport carpark!
How come everyone else's Battery Drain problems caused by the reciever is able to be fixed by disconnecting the aerial..... except mine?!!
Having said that, with the upgraded receiver fitted, I never have any fear of a flat battery - even on return to it in an airport carpark!
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