Best R1 performance increase for £700...................
Discussion
Hi all,
Promised the boss i won't buy ANOTHER track bike, so she's given me a small allowance to improve current ride.
Am looking to spend around £700 on it. ('99 R1).
Just wondering what mods would give me most return for my money...
Not sure what is best buy.
Any advice appreciated.
Cheers Russell
Promised the boss i won't buy ANOTHER track bike, so she's given me a small allowance to improve current ride.
Am looking to spend around £700 on it. ('99 R1).
Just wondering what mods would give me most return for my money...
Not sure what is best buy.
Any advice appreciated.
Cheers Russell
I always thought the best way to spend your money is for the suspension and tyres. the best you can get to help on track or raod. to save weight I also think don't bother saving gramms on carbon but loose weight. I need to. 
as for performace BHP upgrades go with PC3, exhaust and or air filter but from what I have read the air filter don't do a great deal apart from easy to clean and lasts longer.
as for performace BHP upgrades go with PC3, exhaust and or air filter but from what I have read the air filter don't do a great deal apart from easy to clean and lasts longer.
Don't the R1's come with Titanium exhausts?
If they do then I'm not sure you'll get anything that weighs much less but of course an aftermarket will give more power.
If I'm wrong then you could get an aftermarket titanium system and kill two birds with one stone, so to speak.
Also, if you're on a limited budget (assuming Ti systems break the budget alone) don't discount second hand systems from ebay...
When I had my ZX7R I picked up a Two Brothers carbon can from ebay.com for $50.00.
Just for the acoustics, didn't bother to rejet, but it shows how much you might save by looking on the 'bay.
If they do then I'm not sure you'll get anything that weighs much less but of course an aftermarket will give more power.
If I'm wrong then you could get an aftermarket titanium system and kill two birds with one stone, so to speak.
Also, if you're on a limited budget (assuming Ti systems break the budget alone) don't discount second hand systems from ebay...
When I had my ZX7R I picked up a Two Brothers carbon can from ebay.com for $50.00.
Just for the acoustics, didn't bother to rejet, but it shows how much you might save by looking on the 'bay.
flyinyam said:
Bike is carb model, so no power commander option i'm afraid
Bonus! a handful of brass jets are going to be way cheaper than a PC! Ok, you have the dyno time to pay for but if you do some research you can probably find the right jet combo for the exhaust system you purchase by searching on some R1 specific forums. 
Main thing is the shock - its not just the quality of the suspension its the length (!) that makes the early bikes easier to steer. Secondhand Ohlins might be £300ish.
Full re-valve of the forks might blow the budget but changing from the stock 5W oil to 7.5W if you run out of adjustment - £20 and oily hands. Different offset yokes might be getting too serious but if the s/hand 2003 yokes (suggested earlier / above) have the same effect as proper race ones then they would be worth the fiddle.
Cheapy s/hand slip-on can if it hasn't already got one (£100). They're not too fussy on re-jetting if you are keeping the stock downpipes with the EXUP valve. Racers used to jack up the front of the tank by an inch and get a free 1 or 1.5hp! That said I've got two of these bikes and have never been bothered enough!
They're not madly overgeared like some modern bikes so wouldn't really bother re-gearing it.
Sticky tyres (part worns from a club race paddock £60 - £80 fitted to loose wheels) and finally it is amazing how much faster a bike is with some cheap face fibreglass on it! By then the bike is on a slippy slope to track bike only though.
All that would have killed £700 easily I'm sure. As usual much faster lap times will come from you rather than the bike.
Full re-valve of the forks might blow the budget but changing from the stock 5W oil to 7.5W if you run out of adjustment - £20 and oily hands. Different offset yokes might be getting too serious but if the s/hand 2003 yokes (suggested earlier / above) have the same effect as proper race ones then they would be worth the fiddle.
Cheapy s/hand slip-on can if it hasn't already got one (£100). They're not too fussy on re-jetting if you are keeping the stock downpipes with the EXUP valve. Racers used to jack up the front of the tank by an inch and get a free 1 or 1.5hp! That said I've got two of these bikes and have never been bothered enough!
They're not madly overgeared like some modern bikes so wouldn't really bother re-gearing it.
Sticky tyres (part worns from a club race paddock £60 - £80 fitted to loose wheels) and finally it is amazing how much faster a bike is with some cheap face fibreglass on it! By then the bike is on a slippy slope to track bike only though.
All that would have killed £700 easily I'm sure. As usual much faster lap times will come from you rather than the bike.
Edited by moto_traxport on Tuesday 26th August 12:42
moto_traxport said:
Main thing is the shock - its not just the quality of the suspension its the length (!) that makes the early bikes easier to steer. Secondhand Ohlins might be £300ish.
Full re-valve of the forks might blow the budget but changing from the stock 5W oil to 7.5W if you run out of adjustment - £20 and oily hands. Different offset yokes might be getting too serious but if the s/hand 2003 yokes (suggested earlier / above) have the same effect as proper race ones then they would be worth the fiddle.
Cheapy s/hand slip-on can if it hasn't already got one (£100). They're not too fussy on re-jetting if you are keeping the stock downpipes with the EXUP valve. Racers used to jack up the front of the tank by an inch and get a free 1 or 1.5hp! That said I've got two of these bikes and have never been bothered enough!
They're not madly overgeared like some modern bikes so wouldn't really bother re-gearing it.
Sticky tyres (part worns from a club race paddock £60 - £80 fitted to loose wheels) and finally it is amazing how much faster a bike is with some cheap face fibreglass on it! By then the bike is on a slippy slope to track bike only though.
All that would have killed £700 easily I'm sure. As usual much faster lap times will come from you rather than the bike.
When I did my 99 R1 around 3 years ago, a good used ohlins was £300 and they have height adjustment to lift the rear, used 03 yokes have better offset and were £60, I found a set of maxton modded 03 forks for £250. The standard shock is rubbish compared to an ohlins and the standard 99 forks are too soft and have too much travel. These mods and sticky tyres made the bike a match for much newer stuff in the twisties.Full re-valve of the forks might blow the budget but changing from the stock 5W oil to 7.5W if you run out of adjustment - £20 and oily hands. Different offset yokes might be getting too serious but if the s/hand 2003 yokes (suggested earlier / above) have the same effect as proper race ones then they would be worth the fiddle.
Cheapy s/hand slip-on can if it hasn't already got one (£100). They're not too fussy on re-jetting if you are keeping the stock downpipes with the EXUP valve. Racers used to jack up the front of the tank by an inch and get a free 1 or 1.5hp! That said I've got two of these bikes and have never been bothered enough!
They're not madly overgeared like some modern bikes so wouldn't really bother re-gearing it.
Sticky tyres (part worns from a club race paddock £60 - £80 fitted to loose wheels) and finally it is amazing how much faster a bike is with some cheap face fibreglass on it! By then the bike is on a slippy slope to track bike only though.
All that would have killed £700 easily I'm sure. As usual much faster lap times will come from you rather than the bike.
Edited by moto_traxport on Tuesday 26th August 12:42
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