Misfire, stalling, poor idle arrrgh
Discussion
Got an intermittent problem, although is becoming more frequent.
I have had an issue a couple of times where the car has suddenly lost power. The most recent time, after about 50 miles of flawless motorway driving, came into a town, little bit of traffic, then suddenly lost power - like it was misfiring and only running on a few cylinders.
When I stopped the car it wouldn't restart - the s. motor didnt even turn over.
Have also had a similar problem where I couldn't get off the idle circuit - i.e. whenever I put my foot down it would cut power.
Have also had an issue where power would cut out at 4500 rpm.
Have also had issues with erratic idle and stalling
These are all intermittent - often I can drive for hundreds of miles with no issues.
I have replaced:
- Coil
- Dizzy cap and rotor arm
- Plugs + extenders
- HT leads
I have cleaned the stepper - it seemed to be operating ok - i.e. I could see it retracting and extending when cycling the ignition.
Is this a DIY or do I need to get somebody with a fault reader? No MIL warning by the way....
Any help much appreciated
I have had an issue a couple of times where the car has suddenly lost power. The most recent time, after about 50 miles of flawless motorway driving, came into a town, little bit of traffic, then suddenly lost power - like it was misfiring and only running on a few cylinders.
When I stopped the car it wouldn't restart - the s. motor didnt even turn over.
Have also had a similar problem where I couldn't get off the idle circuit - i.e. whenever I put my foot down it would cut power.
Have also had an issue where power would cut out at 4500 rpm.
Have also had issues with erratic idle and stalling
These are all intermittent - often I can drive for hundreds of miles with no issues.
I have replaced:
- Coil
- Dizzy cap and rotor arm
- Plugs + extenders
- HT leads
I have cleaned the stepper - it seemed to be operating ok - i.e. I could see it retracting and extending when cycling the ignition.
Is this a DIY or do I need to get somebody with a fault reader? No MIL warning by the way....
Any help much appreciated
I had a similar problem to this recently - felt like it was missing and was incredibly jumpy (i.e. more than usual...) at around town speeds. Started at below 2K and then over time crept up until it was doing it all the time. Looked on here, checked all the obvious but still no joy. Then , purely by accident I happened to notice the contacts for the Coolant Temp Sensor were v. badly corroded - cleaned them up and its been absolutely fine since.
Can't understand why that would make it behave like that (would it produce a bad earth back to the ECU?) but it might be worth checking.
Good luck!
Mark
Can't understand why that would make it behave like that (would it produce a bad earth back to the ECU?) but it might be worth checking.
Good luck!
Mark
Its possible to do it with the car on jacks but if it were me I'd get it up on ramps or at least axle stands, since passing forty I'm no longer invincible!! You can follow the shorter red cable running from the starter to find the 100 amp fuse box .
Best of luck............ Nick.......
Best of luck............ Nick.......
f@-pots said:
Just read your post again, you mentioned the starter not turning over , so it cant be the throttle pot or temp sensor as they have nothing to do with the starter motor, more likely to be a low tension problem which points again to the 100 amp fuse !
I've reread the OP. I've also had (twice) a breakdown of the 100A fuse, the first was on a French autoroute where I had a sudden (but permanent loss of power) - the car refused to rev over 3500rpm. Each time the oil pressure sender failed such that the gauge would read 0psi -> 10psi if revved. However the alternator light also came on (but would go out if revved hard).It's worth a check.
I wouldn't expect that they are specialist - good motor factor? They look like this:
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/291
and cost practically nothing.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/291
and cost practically nothing.
Edited by JonathanT on Wednesday 27th August 17:43
You've had several failures that aren't obviously related, but one thing they all have in common is that the affected circuits all depend on the switched ignition feed from the ignition switch to the main loom (starter solenoid supply by virtue of going the through the alarm which will be enabled by the ignition circuit). The connector between the switch and the main loom is notoriously unreliable and tends top break down and become get worse with age, so I suggest you check that the next chance you get.
Gman,
Not sure if this is still relevant considering the replies above, but for future reference the CTS is located at the bottom of the stainless swirl tank at the front of the engine (on serp motors anyway) - its the one with the brass top.
The connectors are only blades in a plastic fitting so they don't last forever.
Can also agree with getting a few 100A fuses - keep 'em everywhere!
Hope that helps.
Mark
Not sure if this is still relevant considering the replies above, but for future reference the CTS is located at the bottom of the stainless swirl tank at the front of the engine (on serp motors anyway) - its the one with the brass top.
The connectors are only blades in a plastic fitting so they don't last forever.
Can also agree with getting a few 100A fuses - keep 'em everywhere!
Hope that helps.
Mark
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