Stainless Dash in PH Classifieds. Anyone bought/fitted one?
Discussion
h to fit!Ive not fitted one myself, but I've heard that on the whole they arent that bad to fit, but the one headache you will have is with the temperature gauge as the capillary tube that comes from the engine bay is sealed onto the gauge itself. I presume this means that in order to fit the temp gauge, you would havve to undo the temp sender in the engine bay, pull out the capillary, and feed the whole lot back in via your new dash plate. Or, you could make a very small notch in the dash pate which you could slip the capillary through, but for me, something like that would always annoy me.
I bought one but didn't fit it owing to the fitting issues described above. I sold the dash with the car, unfitted.
Someone has replaced their analogue gauges with those Spa dual digital ones (looks superb). They are all electronic so threading cables from the sensors on the engine to the gauge in the dash is much simpler, and the cable will detach from the cable.
And those Spa gauges are accurate. Not sure about the TVR ones. Would probably need to test them before I'd believe what they told me.
Someone has replaced their analogue gauges with those Spa dual digital ones (looks superb). They are all electronic so threading cables from the sensors on the engine to the gauge in the dash is much simpler, and the cable will detach from the cable.
And those Spa gauges are accurate. Not sure about the TVR ones. Would probably need to test them before I'd believe what they told me.
TT Tim said:
Come on guys, it's not that much of a job.
Remove the engine covers, cut the cable ties holding the tube, unscrew the bulb, and thread it all out.
No more than a couple of hrs to remove & refit.
Tim
That's very true Tim but doing it for the first time, not knowing what you know now, makes it a lot more taxing!Remove the engine covers, cut the cable ties holding the tube, unscrew the bulb, and thread it all out.
No more than a couple of hrs to remove & refit.
Tim
And when you unscrew the Temp sender, or try to unscrew it, the damn thing just breaks off!
Use a fine hacksaw and cust a small cut at the top of the plate, then you don't have to remove anything, the 3 hour PITA job becomes a 30 minute doddle of a job, and the cut is hardly noticeable.
If yoiu fit the St/St Heater control plate, you do have to dismantle and unsolder 2 wires, then re-assemble and re-solder it, not too tricky if you have a decent soldering iron.
Use a fine hacksaw and cust a small cut at the top of the plate, then you don't have to remove anything, the 3 hour PITA job becomes a 30 minute doddle of a job, and the cut is hardly noticeable.
If yoiu fit the St/St Heater control plate, you do have to dismantle and unsolder 2 wires, then re-assemble and re-solder it, not too tricky if you have a decent soldering iron.
Right, thank you for all your responses to my guestion. I went ahead today and ordered the kit, should arrive sometime mid next week. I'm reluctant to cut the dash being as a. Its new. And b. I'm one of those people that things like that will always bug. So at the end of the day its only nuts and bolts and when its done i'll get that feeling of satisfaction and a mint looking dash! My only seal worry now its breaking the temp wire. But if i do the wort is that i end up with a better temp guage at a little extra cost. (anyone know how much these really good ones are and do they match the rest?) Oh and is the dash screwed or bonded only i'm getting different opinions. Some are some are not maybe? Thanks again.
You remove the Dash pod, 2 wing nuts underneath at the front extreme corners. The dash plate is just held in place with 2 screws. If your not going to cut the new dash plate, it is long job, the hardest bit is getting the Temp sender removed from the water pipes at the front of the car - Good look.
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