Mr2 Power Figure? Aquamist?
Discussion
Just a quickie for those who know a bit more than me,
ive got a rev4 mr2 turbo,
spec:
Apexi power fuel controller and commander, also the matching boost controller that goes with it.
cat back berk technologies exhaust system
blitz induction cone and dump valve
trd plugs and leads
everything else is standard power wise
what flywheel or at the wheels bhp do you think it would make when i get it mapped say at 0.9bar, it will only be on 95ron fuel because thats all we can get over here
it will be mapped to run on 95ron.
also anybody got an aquamist kit fitted?? any good???
ive got a rev4 mr2 turbo,
spec:
Apexi power fuel controller and commander, also the matching boost controller that goes with it.
cat back berk technologies exhaust system
blitz induction cone and dump valve
trd plugs and leads
everything else is standard power wise
what flywheel or at the wheels bhp do you think it would make when i get it mapped say at 0.9bar, it will only be on 95ron fuel because thats all we can get over here
it will be mapped to run on 95ron.
also anybody got an aquamist kit fitted?? any good???
you'll be wanting an intercooler before you do anything else...get the Berk tech, its great....I'm looking to get one for myself at christmas 
thats your priority upgrade, not water injection. It will allow you to run upgraded boost more safely.
if you have stock downpipe (catalytic convertor) you will be losing a lot of power there. Add these two things and you are probably safe to run more like 280bhp.
thats your priority upgrade, not water injection. It will allow you to run upgraded boost more safely.
if you have stock downpipe (catalytic convertor) you will be losing a lot of power there. Add these two things and you are probably safe to run more like 280bhp.
^^ what he said. The standard intercooler really is poor. To put it in perspective its almost identical in size and construction to the standard intercooler on a Charade GTti, which only has 100hp as standard.
The stock ECU will limit boost if it senses underbonnet temps are getting too high, i.e. it was quite hot yesterday, drove to and from JAE, a coupla times after sitting at traffic lights and then booting it, the ECU had pulled the boost back to about halfway on the gauge.
As Wadeski says you should be around the 280 mark, if not over. Certainly alot more than 250 which is pretty much what a stock revision 4 makes.
As an example, and this is probably at the high end, a guy on IMOC did the mods you are talking about doing, plus upgraded the intercooler, run 1.05 bar and was making 319hp at the fly, with stock fuelling. Stock fuelling is damn rich, getting towards the 9.5:1 area in the top end on full boost, so with a decent remap to 11:1 on boost he could be making more like 330hp flywheel.
The stock ECU will limit boost if it senses underbonnet temps are getting too high, i.e. it was quite hot yesterday, drove to and from JAE, a coupla times after sitting at traffic lights and then booting it, the ECU had pulled the boost back to about halfway on the gauge.
As Wadeski says you should be around the 280 mark, if not over. Certainly alot more than 250 which is pretty much what a stock revision 4 makes.
As an example, and this is probably at the high end, a guy on IMOC did the mods you are talking about doing, plus upgraded the intercooler, run 1.05 bar and was making 319hp at the fly, with stock fuelling. Stock fuelling is damn rich, getting towards the 9.5:1 area in the top end on full boost, so with a decent remap to 11:1 on boost he could be making more like 330hp flywheel.
Edited by Marf on Sunday 31st August 13:10
I could only resist the modding bug for so long after buying mine. I have a few of the basics planned, and even a plan for if(when
) the engine goes pop!One thing I'm not convinced of is how much better a Berk I/C would be compared to the eBay £125 sidemount kits, especially you are aiming for no more than the stock turbo and engine can deliver. Add a ChrisGTS shroud and Spal fan and you have the Berk kit for half the price.
Berk Tech flexi downpipe tho
Are you doing anything to the brakes? I'm quite tempted by some carbotech pads and braided lines, I feel the brake pedal could do with being a bit more positive.
Sorry, I'll stop talking now.
Edited by Marf on Sunday 31st August 16:16
for cooling I would get a st205 charge cooler conversion or if you can afford it the pace charge cooler from rouge, I've had a arc IC and I think a charge cooler is the way forward on the mr2, just search the intake temps people are getting on imoc, and a mapper can pull better results when they map it on the dyno
also why do you want to map it on 95 ron fuel! you wont be able to get as much power from the engine as the risk of det increases,
also why do you want to map it on 95 ron fuel! you wont be able to get as much power from the engine as the risk of det increases,
Edited by jdbecks on Sunday 31st August 17:10
Unfortunately GTS Chris doesn't have any Berk IC's in stock at the mo and he doesn't know if or when he's getting anymore in. I wanted to order one a couple of days ago, probably gonna get the GReddy kit instead. With your current state of tune you're probably around the 260-270bhp mark.
jdbecks said:
for cooling I would get a st205 charge cooler conversion or if you can afford it the pace charge cooler from rouge, I've had a arc IC and I think a charge cooler is the way forward on the mr2, just search the intake temps people are getting on imoc, and a mapper can pull better results when they map it on the dyno
also why do you want to map it on 95 ron fuel! you wont be able to get as much power from the engine as the risk of det increases,
I'd guess he's in Ireland, 95 ron is all thats really available. He needs to get it mapped for 95ron (If he's sensible he'll get 2 Bar Tuning to fly over and do it for him, from what i've read there arn't any competant mappers in Ireland), it'dd det and dei if run on 95ron without a remap. Posts on the forums with Irish owners with severe engine problems are common.also why do you want to map it on 95 ron fuel! you wont be able to get as much power from the engine as the risk of det increases,
Edited by jdbecks on Sunday 31st August 17:10
st205 chargecooler is nice, but the install is messy as hell (fiat radiators etc) and means a LOT of pipework. And those dyno figures that show chargecoolers working 10x better than intercoolers are affected by the fact that intercoolers work better at speed, with 70mph airflow, but on a static rolling road, a chargecooler will obviously work better.
thanks for all the replies, was thinking of retro fitting st205 chargecooler alright but seems very complicated!! and the pace ones are out of reach at the moment.
also twin spal hood mounted extractor fans? any good?
are those ebay intercoolers any good? probably a very stupid question i know!!!
there is a crowd over here called westward engineering, they are the offical apexi supplier for ireland and tune most of the drift cars over here, am probably gonna take it up to them in the next couple of weeks.
also twin spal hood mounted extractor fans? any good?
are those ebay intercoolers any good? probably a very stupid question i know!!!
there is a crowd over here called westward engineering, they are the offical apexi supplier for ireland and tune most of the drift cars over here, am probably gonna take it up to them in the next couple of weeks.
Wadeski said:
st205 chargecooler is nice, but the install is messy as hell (fiat radiators etc) and means a LOT of pipework. And those dyno figures that show chargecoolers working 10x better than intercoolers are affected by the fact that intercoolers work better at speed, with 70mph airflow, but on a static rolling road, a chargecooler will obviously work better.
but even still theres still more heatsoak with the IC, do a search on temp intake readings on the move with a cc, also thats better for a mapper to be tune the ecu on the dynoFitting a chargecooler is the most effective mod for bringing down those intake temps but, as mentioned earlier it is a potentially messy install. I've been looking into cooling options recently and even some very highly regarded MR2 specialists have made a right pigs-ear of ST205 installations recently.
Im running 0.9bar on my Rev 2 and am planning to run 1.2 with my stage 2 hybrid turbo so improved cooling is a must, I've just ordered a GReddy intercooler which will be more than up to the job and a far neater and easier install.
Theres been lots of discussion on this topic on IMOC recently, have a look... http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewforum.php?f=3&...
Im running 0.9bar on my Rev 2 and am planning to run 1.2 with my stage 2 hybrid turbo so improved cooling is a must, I've just ordered a GReddy intercooler which will be more than up to the job and a far neater and easier install.
Theres been lots of discussion on this topic on IMOC recently, have a look... http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewforum.php?f=3&...
If you are running an aftermarket boost controller then the engine wont be able to limit your boost since the control valve needs to be disconnected.
I would have thought on those mods you could run 1 bar. As a comparison, by Rev3 had a cat back exhaust, air filter and a mechanical boost controller set to 1 bar, it made 257bhp on a cold day.
Go for the decat as its well worth doing, but then you definitely need to go the uprated IC/CC route.
Once you have done this you should be really chuffed!
Personally, I would also get the turbo rebuilt for peace of mind as you cant tell if it will fail at some point. I know this is a point subject to debate, but the original turbo on my car failed before I owned it and luckily the parts only made it into the stock IC. Since owning the car I spend £350 and had steel parts put into it, it does take longer to spool but at least I know its not going to fail and destroy the engine.
I would have thought on those mods you could run 1 bar. As a comparison, by Rev3 had a cat back exhaust, air filter and a mechanical boost controller set to 1 bar, it made 257bhp on a cold day.
Go for the decat as its well worth doing, but then you definitely need to go the uprated IC/CC route.
Once you have done this you should be really chuffed!
Personally, I would also get the turbo rebuilt for peace of mind as you cant tell if it will fail at some point. I know this is a point subject to debate, but the original turbo on my car failed before I owned it and luckily the parts only made it into the stock IC. Since owning the car I spend £350 and had steel parts put into it, it does take longer to spool but at least I know its not going to fail and destroy the engine.
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