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Riggernut

Original Poster:

1,681 posts

262 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
Hoping for a bit of plumbing help. I have a toilet cistern that has started leaking from the isolation valve which is located just before it enters the cistern.


This above connects to the the bottom of this.


So i purchased these new items, however on fitting the isolation valve it strips the threads on the ballcock.

When I disconnected the main feed pipe from the other side of the isolation valve and offered up the isolation valve to the ballcock it appears that it's not fully sealing when tight.
I've tried lowering the height of the cistern to no avail. Running out of ideas apart from a bodge job of silicone sealant or cutting 5mm of the bottom of the ballcock to shorten the length to the threads

TheEnd

15,370 posts

219 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
i think you could do with some teflon tape

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

it's usually meant for gas fittings, but could solve the problem. if not, silicone is your friend

B17NNS

18,506 posts

278 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
How are you getting an isolating valve (with compression fittings at both ends) to attach to a toilet which has a threaded connector?

Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?

I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.

B17NNS

18,506 posts

278 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
TheEnd said:
christ man, how many leaks do you think he's got?

Simpo Two

92,994 posts

296 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
They don't call me 'The Araldite Kid' for nothing hehe

markiem8

76 posts

270 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
You need one of these,

If you are trying to connect pic 1 to pic 2 in your post it isn't going to happen.

TheEnd

15,370 posts

219 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
sorry, i failed to explain myself..

get the box of tape, throw the tape away and shove the box under the drip, problem solved!

Riggernut

Original Poster:

1,681 posts

262 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
B17NNS said:
How are you getting an isolating valve (with compression fittings at both ends) to attach to a toilet which has a threaded connector?

Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?

I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.
Well it's been fitted like this since we moved in. There was sealant over the outside so there must have been a problem before, So it's a bad arrangement of connectors then?

Nipped up the nut and it stripped the threads, so i replaced both parts.

What should i be using then?


wizzbilly

955 posts

224 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
are you saying you are trying to fix the isolation valve to the bottom of the 2nd pic if so no wonder its leaking lol

what you should have is copper leading upto the toilet then a isolation valve then another bit of copper out the other side

one of these on top of the copper that scres to the bottom of your new inner bits
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/50627/Plumbing/Push-...

ChrisRS

1,787 posts

248 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
markiem8 said:
You need one of these,

If you are trying to connect pic 1 to pic 2 in your post it isn't going to happen.
Replace item in pic 1 with this item and jobs a good'n

Riggernut

Original Poster:

1,681 posts

262 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
markiem8 said:
You need one of these,

If you are trying to connect pic 1 to pic 2 in your post it isn't going to happen.
Sorry my fault, had another look at the valve. That is the one fitted and I've bought the same valve.

eldudereno

997 posts

258 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
B17NNS said:
How are you getting an isolating valve (with compression fittings at both ends) to attach to a toilet which has a threaded connector?

Why have you replaced the ball cock/toilet inards when only the isolating valve was leaking?

I'd have tried just nipping up the leaking nut to start with. If that didn't work then fit a new olive(s) and try again.
Really don't know how the isolating valve is connecting to that cistern valve of yours. Nothing else apart from a 1/2" bsp tap connector should connect to it.

wizzbilly

955 posts

224 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
ChrisRS said:
markiem8 said:
You need one of these,

If you are trying to connect pic 1 to pic 2 in your post it isn't going to happen.
Replace item in pic 1 with this item and jobs a good'n
providing the copper is longe enough still lol totaly forgot about them proves hpow much i avios bathrooms

ChrisRS

1,787 posts

248 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
Riggernut said:
markiem8 said:
You need one of these,

If you are trying to connect pic 1 to pic 2 in your post it isn't going to happen.
Sorry my fault, had another look at the valve. That is the one fitted and I've bought the same valve.
Have you got a fibre washer between the isolation valve and the plastic 1/2" bsp connector? This may be your problem

eldudereno

997 posts

258 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
You'll always get a leak in there if you're not using a sealing washer.

markiem8

76 posts

270 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
And if you have stripped the threads you are doing it up to tight.

Riggernut

Original Poster:

1,681 posts

262 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
ChrisRS said:
Riggernut said:
markiem8 said:
You need one of these,

If you are trying to connect pic 1 to pic 2 in your post it isn't going to happen.
Sorry my fault, had another look at the valve. That is the one fitted and I've bought the same valve.
Have you got a fibre washer between the isolation valve and the plastic 1/2" bsp connector? This may be your problem
Yep, popped it in and it still pisses out from the threads.

ChrisRS

1,787 posts

248 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
Riggernut said:
ChrisRS said:
Riggernut said:
markiem8 said:
You need one of these,

If you are trying to connect pic 1 to pic 2 in your post it isn't going to happen.
Sorry my fault, had another look at the valve. That is the one fitted and I've bought the same valve.
Have you got a fibre washer between the isolation valve and the plastic 1/2" bsp connector? This may be your problem
Yep, popped it in and it still pisses out from the threads.
You shouldn't need to but you could try applying PTFE tape to the threads of the tap connector on the end of the isolation valve, the nut shouldn't be overtightend, screw it up by hand then add approx 1/4 turn with a spanner, worth checking the fibre/rubber washer for splits.

Edited to add, any chance of pics of the bits you purchased?

Edited by ChrisRS on Saturday 30th August 23:36

Riggernut

Original Poster:

1,681 posts

262 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
Right, the gap between the valve and ballcock is to great. The nut is stripping two threads only. I can't lower the cistern anymore and i can only just pull up the pipe and get on to the first thread. Hence when i tighten it up it strips the thread.
How else can i extend the distance?

ChrisRS

1,787 posts

248 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
Riggernut said:
Right, the gap between the valve and ballcock is to great. The nut is stripping two threads only. I can't lower the cistern anymore and i can only just pull up the pipe and get on to the first thread. Hence when i tighten it up it strips the thread.
How else can i extend the distance?
You need to get yourself one of these, comes with an isolation valve, 15mm compression or push-fit end on one end and a 1/2 tap connector on the other end.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18417/Plumbing/Flexi...