targa timebond glue
Discussion
Bought the Dave Hammerton roof kit and have the back section on successfully.
Now to do the targa panel.
Two glues are supplied
- An instant aersol adhesive
- A pot of not quite as instant adhesive with a brush.
If I use the brush one I'm worried it may cause bumps.
But then the aersol is so instant it leaves no time for positioning and correcting detail.
If anyone elses has done this which glue did you use?
Is there a timebond adhesive and stockist you can recommend?
Thanks
Now to do the targa panel.
Two glues are supplied
- An instant aersol adhesive
- A pot of not quite as instant adhesive with a brush.
If I use the brush one I'm worried it may cause bumps.
But then the aersol is so instant it leaves no time for positioning and correcting detail.
If anyone elses has done this which glue did you use?
Is there a timebond adhesive and stockist you can recommend?
Thanks
Have a look on The Griffith Pages here That's a peice about fitting the roof kit you have and here an extended tutorial on recovering a targa panel.
HTH
HTH
ah, so you brush it on rather than spray it.
in that case I'll go for some of this and give it a go.
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=d...
Shame it didn't come with the roof kit though.
Cant find the Evo-stik Timebond Thixotropic one recommended anywhere. Any ideas?
in that case I'll go for some of this and give it a go.
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=d...
Shame it didn't come with the roof kit though.
Cant find the Evo-stik Timebond Thixotropic one recommended anywhere. Any ideas?
Edited by DustyC on Monday 1st September 12:30
Link below is to a discussion from last year about which glue to use...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Some people prefer ordinary contact adhesive, others likes the Time Bond stuff. I guess it all boils doen to how confident you are, but the Time Bond gives you that second chance if things don't go well on the first attempt.
BTW, I got the Evo-Stik Time Bond from B&Q, but I'm sure most DIY retailers sell it.
I'm sure once they are bonded and dry there is little or no difference between the two glues (ordinary contact and Time Bond), but there are differences in their consistancy and texture during application.
Ordinary Contact is thick and gloopy like syrup. It can run and care needs to be taken to spread it evenly over both surfaces to be glued. Leave it till it's touch dry (~10-15mins) and gently press the two surfaces together. If you make a mistake it's rare you can pull the surfaces apart again without lifting the glue on both surfaces and having to remove the glue and start again.
Time Bond in the tin looks and has the texture of a soft wax. This makes it easier to paint on with a brush with no lumps and no runs. Leave to dry as before but this time I think it said there was about 10 min window where you could reposition before the bond was permanent...
HTH
G
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Some people prefer ordinary contact adhesive, others likes the Time Bond stuff. I guess it all boils doen to how confident you are, but the Time Bond gives you that second chance if things don't go well on the first attempt.
BTW, I got the Evo-Stik Time Bond from B&Q, but I'm sure most DIY retailers sell it.
I'm sure once they are bonded and dry there is little or no difference between the two glues (ordinary contact and Time Bond), but there are differences in their consistancy and texture during application.
Ordinary Contact is thick and gloopy like syrup. It can run and care needs to be taken to spread it evenly over both surfaces to be glued. Leave it till it's touch dry (~10-15mins) and gently press the two surfaces together. If you make a mistake it's rare you can pull the surfaces apart again without lifting the glue on both surfaces and having to remove the glue and start again.
Time Bond in the tin looks and has the texture of a soft wax. This makes it easier to paint on with a brush with no lumps and no runs. Leave to dry as before but this time I think it said there was about 10 min window where you could reposition before the bond was permanent...
HTH
G
I have fitted this kit, i found using spray glue works best on the targa section and rear folding section. I then brushed the contact glue around all the edges, so they wont lift.
Reasons for this are:-
The spray glue gives your more chance to get it right as you wont be happy unless it is!
The contact glue just goes off far to fast so it loose's its tack before your ready to lay the pannel onto it unless your a professional or lucky!
If you do make an error and need to pull the pannel off..... Good luck if you use just the contact glue as it stick's very well! And balls will form of glue when pulling it off and plenty of thinners and time will be needed to clean it back up again.
Its very very hard work to get an even spread of the contact glue over large areas, so lumps will be seen through the fabric.
Take plenty of time linning the section up and getting it central, before you decide to put the glue on. I glued it in thirds, section by section after i was happy with its positioning.Making sure you work the fabric evenly as not to trap air or stick it on off square as the seams are pre-sewn.
Any questions please email me, but i found Dave Hammerton to be very helpfull with all my questions
Reasons for this are:-
The spray glue gives your more chance to get it right as you wont be happy unless it is!
The contact glue just goes off far to fast so it loose's its tack before your ready to lay the pannel onto it unless your a professional or lucky!
If you do make an error and need to pull the pannel off..... Good luck if you use just the contact glue as it stick's very well! And balls will form of glue when pulling it off and plenty of thinners and time will be needed to clean it back up again.
Its very very hard work to get an even spread of the contact glue over large areas, so lumps will be seen through the fabric.
Take plenty of time linning the section up and getting it central, before you decide to put the glue on. I glued it in thirds, section by section after i was happy with its positioning.Making sure you work the fabric evenly as not to trap air or stick it on off square as the seams are pre-sewn.
Any questions please email me, but i found Dave Hammerton to be very helpfull with all my questions
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