Chassis refurb and protection

[4535jacks]

I've started to refurb the chassis, I want to rid the car of surface rust and get an expert welder to strengthen up the areas most affected. Can some recommend an excellent welder in the Medway area?
What is the best method of ridding surface rust. I've been using a drill with a wire brush attachment and wet and dry paper both with WD 40, is there a better solvent or fluid to get rid of rust.

Finally what is the best treatment to get rid of the pitting affect on the surface and leave a smoother finish.

I was then planning on hammerite and waxoyl, any better ideas?

Gary

[scotty_d]

That sounds fine hard work but once its waxoyled its easy to maintain year in.

What i might do i drill in to the chassis and fill it with old engine oil and a waxoyle mix to protect it inside as well, i know this will add a bit of weight but if it helps stop rust it may be worth it just an idea???

[dogbucket]

Consider using something better than Hammerite as it will eventually fail and you will be doing it all again. POR15 is the most popular, or a 2 part paint called Epoxy Mastic was my choice. Both will cost more than Hammerite but worth it in the long run.

imo a sprayable wax is then needed to treat the areas that cannot be painted without a body off like the corner plates etc. Waxoyl or Dinitrol.

[HRG]

Emery Tape is good as you can break lengths off and wrap it round the chassis rails.

[GreenV8S]

Rather than a plain wire wheel, get a wire wheel in a resin matrix because they last much longer. You can also get a fibre wheel which seems very effective at getting rid of stray bits of powder coating. And strips of emery tape of course for the bits you can't get at with power tools.

[winters]

I'll shortly be starting some chassis work too, once my car returns from its service. As to what to use, I asked my (well respected TVR-) servicing garage what they would recommend I use. They said definitely use some rust inhibitor as the initial coat and recommended Loctite Rust Remedy (7503) - it is what they use.

Loctite say it's a 'Rust neutraliser for bodywork, chassis, subframes. Stabilises the rust process by forming a sound bonded surface which can be sanded,filled or painted.' Presumably similar to this POR15 stuff? Anyone tried it - any opinions/comparisons?

I guess then painting and waxoyling. Can hardly wait!

Good luck with yours, Gary.

[GreenV8S]

POR is a family of products not just paint, but if you were applying the POR15 system you would use an acidic rust converter before painting. The rust converter chemically converts rust to a hard compound (iron phosphate in the case of POR15) which resists further corrosion.

[That Daddy]

Here you go http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8... and http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9... dont use WD40 to clean or lube the abrasives though its oil based and may get into the pits of the steel causing the paint/primer to not bond to the metal properly,just my cents worth.

Edited by That Daddy on Wednesday 3rd September 09:03