Removing M series diff
Discussion
The diff in my 2500m is leaking badly from the center seal....
This article suggests that you can remove the diff through the side of the chassis.... http://www.tvrna.com/tech/tech-m02a.htm
Has anyone actually managed to get the diff and carrier out through the side of the chassis like that?....
I am in the position where I can try it, but the diff weighs a LOT and I don't want to do my back in maneuvering it if there is no way it will come out....
This article suggests that you can remove the diff through the side of the chassis.... http://www.tvrna.com/tech/tech-m02a.htm
Has anyone actually managed to get the diff and carrier out through the side of the chassis like that?....
I am in the position where I can try it, but the diff weighs a LOT and I don't want to do my back in maneuvering it if there is no way it will come out....
tegwin said:
The diff in my 2500m is leaking badly from the center seal....
This article suggests that you can remove the diff through the side of the chassis.... http://www.tvrna.com/tech/tech-m02a.htm
Has anyone actually managed to get the diff and carrier out through the side of the chassis like that?....
I am in the position where I can try it, but the diff weighs a LOT and I don't want to do my back in maneuvering it if there is no way it will come out....
is this the project car requiring a full strip tegwin? if not why not just remove the front carrier, prop the diff up and change the pinion seal in situ?This article suggests that you can remove the diff through the side of the chassis.... http://www.tvrna.com/tech/tech-m02a.htm
Has anyone actually managed to get the diff and carrier out through the side of the chassis like that?....
I am in the position where I can try it, but the diff weighs a LOT and I don't want to do my back in maneuvering it if there is no way it will come out....
Neil.
Yes, I have got a TR6 diff and it's carrier through the side in a M seriaes car.
Yo need to remove one wheel, driveshaft and the hub carrier (easier just to disconnent both upper and lower wishbones at the chassis), disconnect the other driveshaft and the prop.
You can then drop the driff onto the lower chassis rails, I would then remove all the diff mounts, then you should be able to get the diff out through the side. You can also drop the carrier and remove that through the side, I would do this whilst the diff is out and inspect for cracks where the drive mounts go (very common)
Now while you're at it you might as well rebush the rear suspension (but you cold just go the whole hog and fully rebuild the car!)
As a Haynes manal would say, re-fitting is the reverse of the above procedure
davidy
Yo need to remove one wheel, driveshaft and the hub carrier (easier just to disconnent both upper and lower wishbones at the chassis), disconnect the other driveshaft and the prop.
You can then drop the driff onto the lower chassis rails, I would then remove all the diff mounts, then you should be able to get the diff out through the side. You can also drop the carrier and remove that through the side, I would do this whilst the diff is out and inspect for cracks where the drive mounts go (very common)
Now while you're at it you might as well rebush the rear suspension (but you cold just go the whole hog and fully rebuild the car!)
As a Haynes manal would say, re-fitting is the reverse of the above procedure
davidy
Thank you all for your replies. They are most useful.
It is indeed my restoration project. The front has been totally rebuilt, it is just the back end that is in need of rescuing.
Adrian, when you say "Replace rear diff bushes (modified TR6)"....How exactly do the TVR bushes differ from the standard TR6 items?
Do you have any more details on the gusset required on the carrier?
Whilst it is apart I may as well do any work that is required.....I am resisting the urge to lift the body off given that the chassis appears to be in a pretty good condition in all the known "weak spots"...Just has surface rust on the lower tubes below the diff which should be easily resolved.
It is indeed my restoration project. The front has been totally rebuilt, it is just the back end that is in need of rescuing.
Adrian, when you say "Replace rear diff bushes (modified TR6)"....How exactly do the TVR bushes differ from the standard TR6 items?
Do you have any more details on the gusset required on the carrier?
Whilst it is apart I may as well do any work that is required.....I am resisting the urge to lift the body off given that the chassis appears to be in a pretty good condition in all the known "weak spots"...Just has surface rust on the lower tubes below the diff which should be easily resolved.
Edited by tegwin on Wednesday 3rd September 22:18
Thankyou adrian. Thats really useful information. Much apreciated! :-)
I have completely stripped the front end and rebuilt with polybushes, I also stripped the uprights and replaced seals etc as appropriate...I was looking at the rubber seals, but opted for "origional" ones...Lucky choice!
I have completely stripped the front end and rebuilt with polybushes, I also stripped the uprights and replaced seals etc as appropriate...I was looking at the rubber seals, but opted for "origional" ones...Lucky choice!
Edited by tegwin on Thursday 4th September 10:48
After a very long struggle it became clear that the bolts holding the diff to the carrier were not coming out....So, no chance of removing the assembly though the side of the chassis...
However, I cut the floor out of the storage recess over the diff and simply lifted the diff out of the car that way....Once the diff is back in I intend to fit an alloy frame into the hole and fit a sealed plate so that I can easily access the diff/handbrake cables, propshaft etc whenever I want to...
Not the ideal solution, but provided I can get a decent seal, im happy with that..
Seems to make a lot of sence...
However, I cut the floor out of the storage recess over the diff and simply lifted the diff out of the car that way....Once the diff is back in I intend to fit an alloy frame into the hole and fit a sealed plate so that I can easily access the diff/handbrake cables, propshaft etc whenever I want to...
Not the ideal solution, but provided I can get a decent seal, im happy with that..
Seems to make a lot of sence...
Edited by tegwin on Thursday 4th September 22:39
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