Trailer (canvas cover)
Discussion
Just bought a 1991 westfield and looking at get a trailer.
Part of the problem is i need somewhere undercover to keep it.
- I could keep it at home, but there really no space. And i'll be at uni anyway!
So my idea (which ive discused elsewhere, if anyone else has read that) is to get a cheap covered trailer. Or get a cheap trailer and do a DIY cover on it.
- The majority of the former, having previously been the latter!
So yeah. A lot are done in canvas, which seams as good as any other way.
- Could easy knockup, or get make the frame, failer cost affectivly. Possably even get galv'ed.
- Then have a few past contacts in the inflatable/tarpoline trade i could contact for that.
Seams fair enough?
- Any one any thoughts in general? Suitable trailer for sale i could but for sub £1000?
- Otherwise, any thoughts on a suitable 'donor' trailer for a DIY conversion?
I'll also be aiming to tow the trailer being a large hatch (1.8l 306) on a CatB only (post 1997) leicense. So MAM of train must be under 3.5ton. And the towing limit of the 306 is 1.2ton braked.
- I'll be aiming to keep the weight down, and will if need be make up my own manufactures plate, derating the MAM to suit, on the ground of the conversion alteration. Or somthing.
Cheers, Daniel.
Part of the problem is i need somewhere undercover to keep it.
- I could keep it at home, but there really no space. And i'll be at uni anyway!
So my idea (which ive discused elsewhere, if anyone else has read that) is to get a cheap covered trailer. Or get a cheap trailer and do a DIY cover on it.
- The majority of the former, having previously been the latter!
So yeah. A lot are done in canvas, which seams as good as any other way.
- Could easy knockup, or get make the frame, failer cost affectivly. Possably even get galv'ed.
- Then have a few past contacts in the inflatable/tarpoline trade i could contact for that.
Seams fair enough?
- Any one any thoughts in general? Suitable trailer for sale i could but for sub £1000?
- Otherwise, any thoughts on a suitable 'donor' trailer for a DIY conversion?
I'll also be aiming to tow the trailer being a large hatch (1.8l 306) on a CatB only (post 1997) leicense. So MAM of train must be under 3.5ton. And the towing limit of the 306 is 1.2ton braked.
- I'll be aiming to keep the weight down, and will if need be make up my own manufactures plate, derating the MAM to suit, on the ground of the conversion alteration. Or somthing.
Cheers, Daniel.
I have recently been in similar situation with towing entitlements for my race car.
Thought I would add that in addition to the requirements you state above the MAM (maximum potential weight) of the trailer must be less than the unladened weight of your car (1000kg?)
There are afew small single axel trailers that are designed for caterhams/single seaters that have a MAM of around 970kg.
Generally I have found that it is only pro built trailers (BJ, woodford, PRG) that have been plated - however due to the quality of them, they are usually have a MAM far higher than what you will need and far higher than the unladened weight of your car.
IMHO The only realistic way to tow a car trailer legally on a B licence is to down plate a trailer ie like 7.5 ton lorries.
In the end personally I have resorted to taking the B+E test, which will give far more flexibility
Dan
Thought I would add that in addition to the requirements you state above the MAM (maximum potential weight) of the trailer must be less than the unladened weight of your car (1000kg?)
There are afew small single axel trailers that are designed for caterhams/single seaters that have a MAM of around 970kg.
Generally I have found that it is only pro built trailers (BJ, woodford, PRG) that have been plated - however due to the quality of them, they are usually have a MAM far higher than what you will need and far higher than the unladened weight of your car.
IMHO The only realistic way to tow a car trailer legally on a B licence is to down plate a trailer ie like 7.5 ton lorries.
In the end personally I have resorted to taking the B+E test, which will give far more flexibility
Dan
My brother has just done this to his (actually on loan from me) trailer - an old-style Brian James Minno twin-axle. Not sure of the costs, but a few hundred on top of the trailer, and certainly cheaper than a fibreglass body.
The frame is made from about 3/4" square tube welded into triangulated frame elements and bolted to the trailer. The front half is permanently fixed, the back half on a piano hinge. The tarpaulin top is stretched and rivetted to the frame (with marine ply beneath so it doesn't sag), whilst the sides fold up onto the roof (enabling access to straps and equipment on the trailer) - sides are held together with 2" tarpaulin, the bottom by a bungee through eyes on the tarp, hooks on the trailer frame. The open floor has now been sealed with marine ply. The superstructure and tarpaulin were professionally welded/cut/stitched.
To minimse height and improve rear visibilty, the roll hoop sticks through roof. A filler panel is pop-studded to the roof, tailored to fit braodly seal to the hopp that pokes through. Loads of equipment is strapped around the car under cover.
The load area is now well-sealed, proven on the drive home in Sunday's storms. I would guess the extra weight at 50-70kg and worth it (although that would force you to a twin-axle, braked trailer, which I think is a good idea anyway). Durability looks very promising (although the tarpaulin needs reinforcement at the end of the piano hinge. There is no flapping of the tarpaulin. Access is of course not as good. Overall it's a very impressive job, both in function and fit & finish.
For Mk II, I would follow the same plan, but I'd move the hinge forward to perhaps 1/3 fixed, 2/3 hinged. Then, rather than have the hinged part fold all the way over I'd have struts that hold it up at about 60 degrees. I'd also plan where and how everything fits/straps to the trailer better (that built up over the years and needs to be rethought).
Based on that I'd recommend:
The frame is made from about 3/4" square tube welded into triangulated frame elements and bolted to the trailer. The front half is permanently fixed, the back half on a piano hinge. The tarpaulin top is stretched and rivetted to the frame (with marine ply beneath so it doesn't sag), whilst the sides fold up onto the roof (enabling access to straps and equipment on the trailer) - sides are held together with 2" tarpaulin, the bottom by a bungee through eyes on the tarp, hooks on the trailer frame. The open floor has now been sealed with marine ply. The superstructure and tarpaulin were professionally welded/cut/stitched.
To minimse height and improve rear visibilty, the roll hoop sticks through roof. A filler panel is pop-studded to the roof, tailored to fit braodly seal to the hopp that pokes through. Loads of equipment is strapped around the car under cover.
The load area is now well-sealed, proven on the drive home in Sunday's storms. I would guess the extra weight at 50-70kg and worth it (although that would force you to a twin-axle, braked trailer, which I think is a good idea anyway). Durability looks very promising (although the tarpaulin needs reinforcement at the end of the piano hinge. There is no flapping of the tarpaulin. Access is of course not as good. Overall it's a very impressive job, both in function and fit & finish.
For Mk II, I would follow the same plan, but I'd move the hinge forward to perhaps 1/3 fixed, 2/3 hinged. Then, rather than have the hinged part fold all the way over I'd have struts that hold it up at about 60 degrees. I'd also plan where and how everything fits/straps to the trailer better (that built up over the years and needs to be rethought).
Based on that I'd recommend:
- Plan on the twin axle trailer. More expensive but better in the long run.
- Plan the layout: position of car, strapping, where other equipment will sit. Do this not only for weight distribution, but for ease of loading/unloading.
- Seal the floor. A lot of road crap comes up if there isn't a solid floor
- Do a frame and tarp as you thought. Design it yourself, then get the frame & tarp made professionally.
- Line the roof with marine ply to prevent the tarp flapping (and water pooling).
- Hinge the assembly in some way to give more access when loading (and possibly making a rain shelter)
Hi, I was planning on a twin axle, braked, trailers.
- As you say, makes a far nicer trailer at that sort of weight.
- The 306 weights 1160kg or somthing. As i say, handbook has towing limit ot 1.2kg. So its all about the same ball park. And i think your right that derating the MAM is the way to go.
Glad to hear another person whos done this. And excellent point on the marine ply. Ive seen a few that had pitched roofs. But a sheet of decent ply would be far neater and bearly any heavier if it was only 3/4mm.
Dont suppost you have a photo of the trailer, picture paints 1000 words, etc.
- The one thing i havnt really being able to fix is height.
- I think for simplity i would have it clear the total height of the car.
- But i havnt really thought about fixed/hinged. Or if it could be stand-up-able.
I would make the whole frame removable (bolt on) Maybe with a solid front. Frame sides, and open back (proberbly some webbing to support canvas).
Point taken about the floor too. I guess you could used a trailer with a solid phenolic floor if you could find one. Or over board is as you say. Proberbly not with phenolic, due to cost! haha.
Daniel
- As you say, makes a far nicer trailer at that sort of weight.
- The 306 weights 1160kg or somthing. As i say, handbook has towing limit ot 1.2kg. So its all about the same ball park. And i think your right that derating the MAM is the way to go.
Glad to hear another person whos done this. And excellent point on the marine ply. Ive seen a few that had pitched roofs. But a sheet of decent ply would be far neater and bearly any heavier if it was only 3/4mm.
Dont suppost you have a photo of the trailer, picture paints 1000 words, etc.
- The one thing i havnt really being able to fix is height.
- I think for simplity i would have it clear the total height of the car.
- But i havnt really thought about fixed/hinged. Or if it could be stand-up-able.
I would make the whole frame removable (bolt on) Maybe with a solid front. Frame sides, and open back (proberbly some webbing to support canvas).
Point taken about the floor too. I guess you could used a trailer with a solid phenolic floor if you could find one. Or over board is as you say. Proberbly not with phenolic, due to cost! haha.
Daniel
I've emailed for piccy and costs, if he has them.
To clarify a few points:
To clarify a few points:
- On the roof we have tarp over thin ply. You could of course do painted aluminuim riveted to the superstructure
- I would tarp the front - every bit of access helps.
- I would go as low as you can, both for rear visibility and aerodynamics. If you just have a roll hoop, look to have it poking through (with a tailored tarp to fill the hole. But a full roll cage would make that impractical.
- I agree on bolting the structure to the chassis. You will never take it off, but you have that option.
- I have to admit that the hinging (or pivoting) idea is a stroke of genius. Access to at least half the car is a massive help.
- Do tarp the back. Keeps the car cleaner, keeps everything out of sight.
Yeah, sorry. By 'open back' ment no framing. So the car could get in. Expecting hideaway ramps.
- However it could also be a drop back/ramp as you say, depending on the trailer used. Deffonatly something to stop the crap geting in.
Got the email with the diagram too. Excellent.
As you say, have a split mid-line is a great compromise between having no access to the car, and having the whole lot move like some of the grp aero box trailers. Presuming i dont go full height. For improved fuel useage and stabilty reasons.
Daniel
- However it could also be a drop back/ramp as you say, depending on the trailer used. Deffonatly something to stop the crap geting in.
Got the email with the diagram too. Excellent.
As you say, have a split mid-line is a great compromise between having no access to the car, and having the whole lot move like some of the grp aero box trailers. Presuming i dont go full height. For improved fuel useage and stabilty reasons.
Daniel
Just to say i ended up buying this honey.
Set me back £925.
Apparently she was build by JENVEY for them to move there speed series car about in before being sold to the bloke i bought it off.
- Angle iron chassis, std rubber trailing arm suspention, mini hubs and wheels, sprung braked on the front pair. Light weight frame with tin skin over the top and a plywood foor and drive up tailgate.
Not the plushest of trailers as such, but seams to keep the westfeild dry, and could be worse to tow behind the 306!
Daniel
Set me back £925.
Apparently she was build by JENVEY for them to move there speed series car about in before being sold to the bloke i bought it off.
- Angle iron chassis, std rubber trailing arm suspention, mini hubs and wheels, sprung braked on the front pair. Light weight frame with tin skin over the top and a plywood foor and drive up tailgate.
Not the plushest of trailers as such, but seams to keep the westfeild dry, and could be worse to tow behind the 306!
Daniel
HiRich said:
Looks pretty handy for the price.
Now spend the winter putting the Westie in and out, and plotting how you're going to customise it for the '09 season...
Yeah well, lots of that.Now spend the winter putting the Westie in and out, and plotting how you're going to customise it for the '09 season...
- Ive acutally been working on geting it working again after i broke it.
- Seams the timebelt had sliped a tooth, which is a little worrying really.
- Certainly advancing the cam a tooth has cured the problem it seams. And retighting the belt.
Just resisting the temptation to take the trailer to component bits and remake it how i would have done it!
I caught myself linking the slightly non-ideal (but perfectly sound) floor with the fack the chassis could well have a painting. Thought went along the lines of "chassis needs painting" "would be easier without floor" "hummm... new floor...." NO!!
Its got a winch in it to, only cheap 2000lb chinese copy. But that works and ive put the car in with it the once.
Daniel
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