TR Lane Rollbar fitting?
Discussion
You will need 1/2 helpers.
The bar requires some gentle persuasion as every car is different.
The rear chassis bosses can be a pain to get the bolts threaded and may require re-tapping to remove any crud.
You will need an extension and universal joint type device for the socket to get to the rear bolts on chassis rail.
Definitely do-able at home so don't be put off, take your time and remember "measure twice cut once" when you drill/cut the holes in the fibreglass for the rear bolts.
HTH.
The bar requires some gentle persuasion as every car is different.
The rear chassis bosses can be a pain to get the bolts threaded and may require re-tapping to remove any crud.
You will need an extension and universal joint type device for the socket to get to the rear bolts on chassis rail.
Definitely do-able at home so don't be put off, take your time and remember "measure twice cut once" when you drill/cut the holes in the fibreglass for the rear bolts.
HTH.
Neil Garner in Kemble has fitted a fair few now and charges around £160 to fit. Takes approx 3 hours. For that money I wouldn't even bother attempting it yourself and he's got it off to a fine art.
http://www.neilgarner.co.uk/
Not too far from you either.
I'm getting one for each Griff although I'll be going for the to spec bar with all the cross bracing as it is being fitted with safety in mind.
I've seen the cheapest one and in my view it would do more damage to you than if one wasn't there. Looks nice but is it worth saving £150 - I value my life a tad higher than that.
FFG
http://www.neilgarner.co.uk/
Not too far from you either.
I'm getting one for each Griff although I'll be going for the to spec bar with all the cross bracing as it is being fitted with safety in mind.
I've seen the cheapest one and in my view it would do more damage to you than if one wasn't there. Looks nice but is it worth saving £150 - I value my life a tad higher than that.
FFG
Edited by FlipFlopGriff on Friday 5th September 12:54
GSW,
Thanks for that, didn't think it would be beyond my capabilities just thought if it was going to be a PITA I'd farm it out, I'll make the final decision once I've had a good look.
FFG,
Thank you too, Neil is on my list of quotes. I was thinking of this rollbar http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/530151.htm which is without cross bracing. I looked at the others, and although it seems trivial we use the behind seat cubbyholes and the cross bracing ones seem to go across the front of the flap rendering them useless. Please correct me if I am wrong as all I have to go on is photos from a search here. Anyone have experience of this? Nothing has been ordered yet, I am waiting for a quote from Tims paint shop to get the colour I want.
Cheers
Andy
Thanks for that, didn't think it would be beyond my capabilities just thought if it was going to be a PITA I'd farm it out, I'll make the final decision once I've had a good look.
FFG,
Thank you too, Neil is on my list of quotes. I was thinking of this rollbar http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/530151.htm which is without cross bracing. I looked at the others, and although it seems trivial we use the behind seat cubbyholes and the cross bracing ones seem to go across the front of the flap rendering them useless. Please correct me if I am wrong as all I have to go on is photos from a search here. Anyone have experience of this? Nothing has been ordered yet, I am waiting for a quote from Tims paint shop to get the colour I want.
Cheers
Andy
The full cross braced one with an additional fixing on either side (6 in total instead of the 4 on this one) is approx £420 + the paint. I'm also awaiting Tim to come back to me re paint but I haven't even discussed colours yet, probably go powder coated matt black rather than try and match leather colour which I don't think would work.
I know its another £200 ish but I think its worth it as it will be string in a bump - will also provide some side protection too.
I'm going to get Neil to fit ours - already spoke with him just need to agree a date/time.
We're in Redditch so maybe a bit closer than yourself.
FFG
I know its another £200 ish but I think its worth it as it will be string in a bump - will also provide some side protection too.
I'm going to get Neil to fit ours - already spoke with him just need to agree a date/time.
We're in Redditch so maybe a bit closer than yourself.
FFG
Haven't seen a fully braced one am interested to see what that's like but this one is on e-bay at the moment http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TVR-GRIFFITH-CHIMAERA-ROLL-B...
There is another version which has the bars going back straight as per the original pic and cross bracing in the headrest area which is the one I'm going for as the rar shelf space is till usable. If you tell him its the same as Graham jeffs' he'll probably send you some pictures.
FFG
FFG
I always wonder how difficult it would be to add some door bars that follow the line of the arm rest on the inside of the door itself and end up attached to something solid in the footwells. If it sloped down like this it shouldn't make access that much more difficult either.
This would do great things to protect you H-point (hip/pelvis) in side impact situations don't you think?
dumbfunk
This would do great things to protect you H-point (hip/pelvis) in side impact situations don't you think?
dumbfunk
dumbfunk said:
I always wonder how difficult it would be to add some door bars that follow the line of the arm rest on the inside of the door itself and end up attached to something solid in the footwells. If it sloped down like this it shouldn't make access that much more difficult either.
This would do great things to protect you H-point (hip/pelvis) in side impact situations don't you think?
dumbfunk
These cars are so low you really need it near shoulder height for protection otherwise you would submarine?This would do great things to protect you H-point (hip/pelvis) in side impact situations don't you think?
dumbfunk
You are right of course but remember that we are comparing it with the steel outrigger tube that runs 10cm above the ground. This would surely be a massive improvement over that right?
You would have to be sure to position the bar far enough from the seat which may require modifying the door to replace the arm rest profile with a flat door card. The sloping bar would effectively replace this arm rest.
df
You would have to be sure to position the bar far enough from the seat which may require modifying the door to replace the arm rest profile with a flat door card. The sloping bar would effectively replace this arm rest.
df
dumbfunk said:
I always wonder how difficult it would be to add some door bars that follow the line of the arm rest on the inside of the door itself and end up attached to something solid in the footwells. If it sloped down like this it shouldn't make access that much more difficult either.
This would do great things to protect you H-point (hip/pelvis) in side impact situations don't you think?
dumbfunk
Hi, I have a TR Lane roll bar fitted. The protection you seek comes from a full cage in the cabin - With that you would have to climb over roll-cage bars across the doors, up the A frame, under the dash. It would not be a comfortable road-car to drive and jump-in and out of. You would also have to use full harness to stop you hitting the cage.This would do great things to protect you H-point (hip/pelvis) in side impact situations don't you think?
dumbfunk
Back in the real world, I have a TR Lane roll bar which gives me far more protection than standard, does reduce the space available to slide the seat (but I am short so this is OK for me), limits access to rear, and allows use of full harness for when I am Sprinting & Hill climbing. The Harness keeps me in place if the worst happens and I would hope not to be decapitated - more likely if I used the inertia belts still fitted !!
Yes it would be sensible in sporting terms to have a full cage, but the intrusion is too much for a daily driver.
If you are still feeling "vulnerable" in a Chimaera, perhaps you need to change completly, beacuse only a full cage will protect all H points properly.
Trev McM
P.S. Neil Garner fitted mine - good job as well. You can mention my name as well!!
Edited by K4TRV on Tuesday 9th September 09:41
Andy Pandie said:
Rollbar just arrived, looks great. Had another brace added from the original design through the hoop, and painted in a colour of my choice to match the interior. Now all I have to do is get it fitted but don't seem to have any instructions, could be interesting 
Good stuff! Don't forget to post photos.
df
Andy Pandie said:
Rollbar just arrived, looks great. Had another brace added from the original design through the hoop, and painted in a colour of my choice to match the interior. Now all I have to do is get it fitted.
Can you post some pics of it before fitting and with it fixed in the car.dumbfunk said:
You are right of course but remember that we are comparing it with the steel outrigger tube that runs 10cm above the ground. This would surely be a massive improvement over that right?
You would have to be sure to position the bar far enough from the seat which may require modifying the door to replace the arm rest profile with a flat door card. The sloping bar would effectively replace this arm rest.
df
I've been looking at this idea as well for my Chim, I reckon there's space for a tube just above the door aperture but below the armrest. Not sure what the door cards are like on a Griff. I know it would only give another 10cm or more but I think half the problem is the lack of strength in the outriggers due to corrosion etc. Obviously a full cage is a bit too much of a compromise. Once I put a roll bar in I'll have a look at this.You would have to be sure to position the bar far enough from the seat which may require modifying the door to replace the arm rest profile with a flat door card. The sloping bar would effectively replace this arm rest.
df
Anyone know if the TR Lane bar is suitable for a Chim or a Griff?
I understand that it is designed to fit both.
And to your other point my idea was to completely *remove* the arm rest from the door card so it is flat and run a bar from near shoulder height diagonally down into the footwell where it would connect with the chassis. This would triangulate the outrigger area and place your hip within that triangle.
Make sense?
(Note: Trev's point above about "perhaps you need to change completely" is valid but inappropriate in my case - I've owned and loved the car for 7 years and 50k miles but this impact protection issue is the single only thing that bothers me.)
dumbfunk
And to your other point my idea was to completely *remove* the arm rest from the door card so it is flat and run a bar from near shoulder height diagonally down into the footwell where it would connect with the chassis. This would triangulate the outrigger area and place your hip within that triangle.
Make sense?
(Note: Trev's point above about "perhaps you need to change completely" is valid but inappropriate in my case - I've owned and loved the car for 7 years and 50k miles but this impact protection issue is the single only thing that bothers me.)
dumbfunk
Edited by dumbfunk on Tuesday 21st October 21:20
dumbfunk said:
I understand that it is designed to fit both.
And to your other point my idea was to completely *remove* the arm rest from the door card so it is flat and run a bar from near shoulder height diagonally down into the footwell where it would connect with the chassis. This would triangulate the outrigger area and place your hip within that triangle.
Make sense?
(Note: Trev's point above about "perhaps you need to change completely" is valid but inappropriate in my case - I've owned and loved the car for 7 years and 50k miles but this impact protection issue is the single only thing that bothers me.)
dumbfunk
Would that go through the floor in the footwell and then onto the front of the outrigger?And to your other point my idea was to completely *remove* the arm rest from the door card so it is flat and run a bar from near shoulder height diagonally down into the footwell where it would connect with the chassis. This would triangulate the outrigger area and place your hip within that triangle.
Make sense?
(Note: Trev's point above about "perhaps you need to change completely" is valid but inappropriate in my case - I've owned and loved the car for 7 years and 50k miles but this impact protection issue is the single only thing that bothers me.)
dumbfunk
Edited by dumbfunk on Tuesday 21st October 21:20
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