Crank Pulley Pins?

[TerryS]

I am sure Stevie will have done this, but has anyone else done their own, or had their crank/pulley pinned.

I am adding a Powerbond pulley and would like to pin it to the crank at the sme time. Any advice appreciated.

[Boosted LS1]

You drill down lengthways between the crank and pulley so as in effect to create something like a key. You need to make a guide for the drill. It's easier to buy a kit, Stevie will know where it's from.

[eliot]

search "ls1 crank pinning"

http://images.vetteweb.com/tech/0605vet_07z+Chevro...

[TerryS]

Thanks, I know Stevie uses a powerbond pulley so hopefully he knows of a suitable kit.

[stevieturbo]

Ive no idea who made my kit, as it came with the pulley etc at the time.


Having used it a few times, and run a larger drill bit thru each time, mine is needing replaced.

If you arent in a big hurry, I'll get a new guide made up, along with some bar to use for making pins. I'd like to use a fresh guide myself for my new engine.

I can get a couple made at the time. If you need something sooner, I can send my current one over....its currently drilled to about 6.5mm, and I have some stainless bar turned down to cut for making pins too.

The standard crank is quite easy to drill. If its a forged crank, you'll need a solid cobalt bit, otherwise you wont even make a mark.

[TerryS]

Thanks Stevie, I will wait for you to make up the guide etc if that's OK with you?

[racebreed]

what is the purpose of crank pinning?

[stevieturbo]

racebreed said:

what is the purpose of crank pinning?

LS cranks have no keyway. They are an interference fit only. SO when you add the stress of driving a blower too, pinning is an easy way to prevent pulley rotation on the crankshaft.

[Pomona]

TerryS said:

I am sure Stevie will have done this, but has anyone else done their own, or had their crank/pulley pinned.

I am adding a Powerbond pulley and would like to pin it to the crank at the sme time. Any advice appreciated.

I have the correct Vette drill jig and bolt along with drill and reamer part # 31-14-59-009 when I drilled the GTS-R VT2 I then owned back in 2001.Now surplus to requirements!!
You will require a new Genuine GM bolt part # 12557840.Those numbers were correct in 2001.
Then it was recommended you drill 2 holes at 180 degs:and dowel as this drill jig allows.

[racebreed]

thanks

[TerryS]

Pomona said:

I have the correct Vette drill jig and bolt along with drill and reamer part # 31-14-59-009 when I drilled the GTS-R VT2 I then owned back in 2001.Now surplus to requirements!!
You will require a new Genuine GM bolt part # 12557840.Those numbers were correct in 2001.
Then it was recommended you drill 2 holes at 180 degs:and dowel as this drill jig allows.

Thanks for this, do you know if it will work with the Power Bond pulley though?

[Boosted LS1]

^ I'd imagine your pulley where it slips onto the crank is reasonably thick If not you need to know the pin diameter.

[stevieturbo]

Some of the kits....mainly the ATI based ones I think, use a dowel style, drilled at 90deg to the crank. I think those would necessitate the removal of the damper.

Mine uses drillings drilled axially into the crank, giving much better pin coverage and strength. Effectively a round keyway...well, 2 actually

Strictly speaking you are supposed to replace the crank bolt...although ive re-used some on occasions with no problems. I think once pinned, the need to replace becomes less, as less strain is put on the bolt.
Ive also never had the balls to tighten the bolt to torque spec, which is f**king tight.

Im using an ARP crank bolt now, which is re-usable.

Drilled crank ready for pins to go in.

http://gallery112848.fotopic.net/p10290771.html

[Boosted LS1]

Stevie, all my bolts have been torqued to the manual specs. I use a 4ft bar and a digiguage. Never lost a pulley yet, lol

[TerryS]

stevieturbo said:

Drilled crank ready for pins to go in.

http://gallery112848.fotopic.net/p10290771.html

Ah that makes perfect sense . Please shout me when you have the guides ready please Stevie.

[Pomona]

As this is an original GM kit and drills 2 holes axially 180 deg apart should be no problem.Most home made kits are a copy of this original anyway,but be sure to get a stepped ground drill that will give you enough metal to ream out the dowel holes to the correct fit.Dowels should just push in,no slop or to tight,and crankpuley bolt shoulder will encapsulate the dowels. Best of luck.