How to Baffle a Ford Sump (x-flow)?
Discussion
after hard braking the oilpressure drops down, so i need to modify my sump with baffles.
anybody has an advice how to do that, where to weld the baffles and how they should look like?
the original sump was bought from caterham. its shortened and angular enlarged towards the back.
anybody has an advice how to do that, where to weld the baffles and how they should look like?
the original sump was bought from caterham. its shortened and angular enlarged towards the back.
Edited by Comadis on Thursday 11th September 09:23
Edited by Comadis on Thursday 11th September 09:28
unfortunately the sump is still on the car and i do have the described phenomenem of pressure loss which normally indicates that the sump is not baffled.
i also wondered that caterham suplied a sump without baffles...but if the original ourchaser didnt tell them, i guess they didnt do it.
you know: today every detail must be discussed. things not discussed wont be done.
the invoice from caterham says "remanufactured sump", cost in 1996: 86,-pound.
i also wondered that caterham suplied a sump without baffles...but if the original ourchaser didnt tell them, i guess they didnt do it.
you know: today every detail must be discussed. things not discussed wont be done.
the invoice from caterham says "remanufactured sump", cost in 1996: 86,-pound.
My Ultima has a multi baffled sump with five trapdoors and would still suffer oil surge under cornering and braking which is why most owners fit an Accusump which seems to solve the problem nicely.
As well as solving your surge issues an Accusump also pre-oils the engine before startup with the use of the electric solenoid valve.
http://www.accusump.com/
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/Technical/mocalo...
Steve
As well as solving your surge issues an Accusump also pre-oils the engine before startup with the use of the electric solenoid valve.
http://www.accusump.com/
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/Technical/mocalo...
Steve
I had a cast alloy sump on the Westfield when it had a Xflow, but the principles transfer of course. You need a windage tray across the top, a hole for the oil pickup, box-in the pickup as closely as is sensible then have hinged trap-doors allowing easy flow inward....
Tall and narrow is best for oil surge, but bad for a 7.
Making many assumptions....that you are modifying a steel sump and can weld...worst problem is distorion of the sump as you weld in the components. TIG is to be preferred, and be critical when assessing how flat the mating face is once you've finished.
TBH, first step is to see what you've actually got fitted - remove it and inspect. You may well find it's already as baffled as is sensible and you are forced to consider an Accusump (a good option) or even dry sump. Don't know what you are doing with the car nor what you expect of it.
All statements of the obvious really...but what else can I say? Hope this was what you wanted.
Tall and narrow is best for oil surge, but bad for a 7.
Making many assumptions....that you are modifying a steel sump and can weld...worst problem is distorion of the sump as you weld in the components. TIG is to be preferred, and be critical when assessing how flat the mating face is once you've finished.
TBH, first step is to see what you've actually got fitted - remove it and inspect. You may well find it's already as baffled as is sensible and you are forced to consider an Accusump (a good option) or even dry sump. Don't know what you are doing with the car nor what you expect of it.
All statements of the obvious really...but what else can I say? Hope this was what you wanted.
this is the original position of the x-flow pipe?
thats more or less in the centre of the engine...but the lowest part of the sump is in the back. (on my car)...hmmm....a bit confused now.
went last night with the car on ramps to change oil...we have loosen the sump bolts and watched inside (i didnt took it completly off).
it has several baffles welded inside.
i remember from my pinto engine that the pick-up pipe sits directly in the centre of the lowest part of the sump.
thats more or less in the centre of the engine...but the lowest part of the sump is in the back. (on my car)...hmmm....a bit confused now.
went last night with the car on ramps to change oil...we have loosen the sump bolts and watched inside (i didnt took it completly off).
it has several baffles welded inside.
i remember from my pinto engine that the pick-up pipe sits directly in the centre of the lowest part of the sump.
No that one is modified. On the front bowl sumps ie cortina the pipe comes more or less straight down form the the pump. On rear bowl ones the pipe turns sharply back after the sump and the pick up is in the centre of the deep bit. I must get out more...........
I have just built a new baffled an shortend sump out of a cortina one for my seven. Time will tell if I have it right. It works just fine sat on the garage floor!
I have just built a new baffled an shortend sump out of a cortina one for my seven. Time will tell if I have it right. It works just fine sat on the garage floor!
first you have to get access to the rear 2 bolts....
i had the car on the ramps saturday..opened all bolts until i recognized that the rear 2 ones are hidden by the distance-plate which is located between bellhousing and engine and alos protects the lower part of the flywheel.
you need to remove this plate, therefore you need to unscrew the bellhousing/gearbox from the engine....and i´m not sure if you have perfect access than.
on a frienss car the plate is missing and somebody already cut-out a piece of the lower bellhousing. we always wondered why...but my problem seams the answer.
i had the car on the ramps saturday..opened all bolts until i recognized that the rear 2 ones are hidden by the distance-plate which is located between bellhousing and engine and alos protects the lower part of the flywheel.
you need to remove this plate, therefore you need to unscrew the bellhousing/gearbox from the engine....and i´m not sure if you have perfect access than.
on a frienss car the plate is missing and somebody already cut-out a piece of the lower bellhousing. we always wondered why...but my problem seams the answer.
we tried this but couldnt get the plate back enough to set a spanner on the bolts...thats why we gave up.
later (when the car was already at my home) i had the idea that it might be possible to deform the plate to get access to the bolts...but not sure if it doesnt touch the flywheel than...
later (when the car was already at my home) i had the idea that it might be possible to deform the plate to get access to the bolts...but not sure if it doesnt touch the flywheel than...
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