Discussion
The engines in these dont run timing belts, they are still on Chain driven camshafts and I wouldn't be too concerned with that type of thing as its all pretty mundane Ford engine equipment so is relatively cheap to maintaion, I would concentrate more on the Chassis/ Body and Trim side of things as these can be far more costly to repair.
clarenceboddiger said:
The engines in these dont run timing belts, they are still on Chain driven camshafts and I wouldn't be too concerned with that type of thing as its all pretty mundane Ford engine equipment so is relatively cheap to maintaion, I would concentrate more on the Chassis/ Body and Trim side of things as these can be far more costly to repair.
Also if the engine goes seriously wrong then there are plenty of scorpios/granadas availabe for around the £3-500 mark if you look carefully. My engine is on just under 160k having had no serious work other than routine servicing but still burns no oil, pulls well and the plugs are in perfect condition/colour when checked.Concur fully with the chassis issue - I learnt the hard way (see my website) and I am an Engineer by trade and gave the thing a really good look over before buying based on the buying guide on Pies' site. I would add one key think to do when inspecting take a strong piece of wire (coathanger) about 30 cm long and when checking the chassis poke it up where the seat belt bolts to the outriggers alongside the seat. wiggle it around and if rust falls down then walk away. If it doesn't then repeat the procedure all the way along the outriggers (the wire will need to be bent to go over the top. Once you've done this go to the seatbelt mounts in the rear wheel arch (take wheel off if possible) and poke said wire into the gap under the mount where it joins the large outrigger tube. really poke this area!!!! Finally do the same at the base of the trailing arm supports.
If rust falls out on any of these checks then really reduce price (as you will be doing welding) or walk away. Even if rust doesn't fall down the chassis may still need work, but at least it is less likely to be serious. The only real way to inspect properly is a partial body lift (a days work including putting is back)
Oh also if there is signs of welding on the outriggers poke the wire all round the top of the weld marks to ensure the job hasn't been cowboyed by "half mooning" the tube like mine was - again see website for photos
Mark
mep12345 said:
JC Stussy said:
Hi Any one know of good, cheap car insusurance for tvr's s series
Hegarty always seems to get the vote - do a search there are lots of threads on the subject
Its Hagerty not Hegarty....
http://www.hagertyinsurance.co.uk
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