Sidepipe exit
Author
Discussion

Leatherman

Original Poster:

1,030 posts

248 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
My Roe side exhausts arrived today so I have to think about cutting a hole in the ally sill covers. Can anyone suggest the best way to do this as it is one of those jobs where you only get one chance to get it right. The covers I have are those with the black fake pipes moulded in.

V1PER

6,630 posts

282 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
Probably go dremmel mate....
may want to mask there area cutting....

bigviper

3,365 posts

252 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
could ask a sunroof co as they use those nibbler tools , just a surgestion

Ginja

1,018 posts

223 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
Pete (Zed Sump) had his RT converted to side pipes and cut the existing sill, drop him a line.

Mark

Leatherman

Original Poster:

1,030 posts

248 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
bigviper said:
could ask a sunroof co as they use those nibbler tools , just a surgestion
I have got a nibbler and I find it ok in straight lines but with a smallish circle probably Baz's suggestion makes more sense.

Leatherman

Original Poster:

1,030 posts

248 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
Ginja said:
Pete (Zed Sump) had his RT converted to side pipes and cut the existing sill, drop him a line.

Mark
Thanks I will do that

RT/10Dave

6,364 posts

230 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
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viper paul

2,485 posts

296 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
Yep thats the tool you need.

Leatherman

Original Poster:

1,030 posts

248 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
viper paul said:
Yep thats the tool you need.
And a very steady hand no doubt.

bigviper

3,365 posts

252 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
if you want to use a hole saw and arbour, starrett are by far the best make (i used to make jacuzzi baths)
and they used to last age's , but pinpunch a center first
just had a quick look on ebay should cost around £30

Edited by bigviper on Monday 22 September 19:48

Leatherman

Original Poster:

1,030 posts

248 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
quotequote all
[quote=bigviper]if you want to use a hole saw and arbour, starrett are by far the best make (i used to make jacuzzi baths)
and they used to last age's , but pinpunch a center first
just had a quick look on ebay should cost around £30

Great thanks

zed sump

3,142 posts

259 months

Monday 22nd September 2008
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YHM Tony wink

Leatherman

Original Poster:

1,030 posts

248 months

Monday 6th October 2008
quotequote all
I am just about to purchase a hole saw as recommended and to make sure it does not look odd can anyone tell me the diameter of the factory pipe side exit.I have 2.5 inch pipes so I am think probably 95mm to give enough clearance.

RT/10Dave

6,364 posts

230 months

Monday 6th October 2008
quotequote all
Hi Tony,

Sorry for the delay in reply, from what I've seen the whole of the flat disc section of the sill is always removed.. I'm sure you'd get away with cutting out whatever you're happy with though.. But quite rightly give it a bit of clearance for heat expansion and any movement.. Let me know if I can be of any more help..

N GTS

735 posts

275 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
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Sorry not had a chance to reply before (I've only just got to the email about it) I cut Pete's out, and have done 2 others before. Some good advice here already. I used the hole-saw for Petes (as you're getting), the secret is to keep the drill on a really low speed, and hold it verticle and hold the sill between your feet, so you stand over it. Due to the curves, it will start cutting one part of the diameter of the hole before it gets to the the complete circle, don't be tempted to angle the drill from once you start, or you might start to move the pilot over and end up with the hole moved too! One of the other side pipe conversions I did with a mates plasma cutter, very easy, takes a perfect section out and doesn't even burn the paint. As to size, small as possible, as you can always go bigger later. Small hole means you don't see into behind the sill area past the tip, looks neater. For a slash cut type tip you can oval the hole out, takes ages with a dremel just to oval out, so if you know anyone with a plasma cutter its worth asking, eg even a company that say repairs them might do it for you for the offer of a tenner, it will only take seconds (just a thought)? For the 3" tips I used a 3 1/2" or 89mm hole. The exhaust shouldn't move much once clamped up. Due to the torque of the motor the left will move upwards and the right downwards, as long as the fit is good and clamps don't move; worth after fit re checking as things can settle and move a little once heated and vibrated. All the best with it.

RT/10Dave

6,364 posts

230 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
quotequote all
If using a hole saw DO NOT do small holes first then go bigger! The pilot, mandrel is what guides the hole saw and keeps it central.. If you can't get that in the centre then the hole saw will go everywhere.. You need to decide on a size and pretty much stick to it.. You can't use a bigger hole saw later.. The only way after that will be to file, or dremmel the hole to open it up..

Leatherman

Original Poster:

1,030 posts

248 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice guy's I can now proceed with confidence.

N GTS

735 posts

275 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
quotequote all
Correct Dave, good advise there but I wasn't implying try to size up on the hole-saws, would be very expensive buying several different sizes, to go from a 3" to 3 1/2" you are only needing to dremel 1/4" material away. You can't put 1/4" material back in if afterwards you think the hole looks too 'gappy' once on the car and the tip is sat in there.