Clutch woes. Was slipping now sticking!
Discussion
I need help! My friend and I recently replaced the clutch on my 95 400 T5. Pain in the arse to do as there is so little room to maneuver the gearbox away from the engine.
As many of you will know, removing the gearbox is nowhere near as hard as putting it back in! Well after a lot of gigery pokery we got it in. Put everything back together, started her up (sounded awesome having replaced the manifolds with decatted ones) and could not get into gear. Clutch felt normal but bled it anyway.
Then I started it in gear with my foot on the clutch, no problems and bite point was perfect. Went for a spin and was able to change gear but got occasional crunches. Found that I could just about engage 1st when stationary but reverse was just too noisy to complete!
It seems to me that the clutch is not fully disengaging, with that in mind I bled it again, no difference. Then I got underneath and looked at the release arm movement while my friend pressed the pedal. All seemed fine with movement of the release bearing throughout the whole throw of the pedal. With the pedal all the way down I tried to push the release bearing further with a crow bar. It would not go any further.
I know anyone reading this must be bored out of their minds (or extremely helpful if they have got this far) but I really need some help, what am I missing???
I thank you in advance. Robin
As many of you will know, removing the gearbox is nowhere near as hard as putting it back in! Well after a lot of gigery pokery we got it in. Put everything back together, started her up (sounded awesome having replaced the manifolds with decatted ones) and could not get into gear. Clutch felt normal but bled it anyway.
Then I started it in gear with my foot on the clutch, no problems and bite point was perfect. Went for a spin and was able to change gear but got occasional crunches. Found that I could just about engage 1st when stationary but reverse was just too noisy to complete!
It seems to me that the clutch is not fully disengaging, with that in mind I bled it again, no difference. Then I got underneath and looked at the release arm movement while my friend pressed the pedal. All seemed fine with movement of the release bearing throughout the whole throw of the pedal. With the pedal all the way down I tried to push the release bearing further with a crow bar. It would not go any further.
I know anyone reading this must be bored out of their minds (or extremely helpful if they have got this far) but I really need some help, what am I missing???
I thank you in advance. Robin
Have used conventional method for bleeding and easy-bleed. The thing that really confuses me is that the bite point is perfect, i.e. near the top but not quite. Also when looking at the action of the release bearing against the cover there seems to be no problems!! I am sure there is no air in there.
Did not see any cracks in arm.
Any other ideas Daddy?
Did not see any cracks in arm.
Any other ideas Daddy?
Edited by TVRobin on Friday 26th September 22:40
Ribol said:
You say you had a rough time putting the box back in?
Assuming all is as you say (all ok), is it possible you either damaged the splines going in or hung the box on the plate causing it to bend?
A bent plate would probably judder as well as not disengage properly.
It was tough putting it back in and when you said that it might have been a bent plate I thought that could have been it. But you are right, it would cause a judder and the clutch it completely smooth on take up!Assuming all is as you say (all ok), is it possible you either damaged the splines going in or hung the box on the plate causing it to bend?
A bent plate would probably judder as well as not disengage properly.
350Matt said:
How long was the box off for?
The reason I ask is that it doesn't take much to get a plate to stick the flywheel, so you can never disengage drive.
Don't worry theres an easy fix
Jam it in gear and start it and drive off, it'll free off within a few miles
Matt
Thanks Matt, the reason the gearbox was out was to replace the clutch. The reason I ask is that it doesn't take much to get a plate to stick the flywheel, so you can never disengage drive.
Don't worry theres an easy fix
Jam it in gear and start it and drive off, it'll free off within a few miles
Matt
I have wedged the clutch pedal down and started the engine with the box in 4th and left it running for 30 mins without any smells or noises! It is definitely not stuck.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
Ribol said:
You say you had a rough time putting the box back in?
Assuming all is as you say (all ok), is it possible you either damaged the splines going in or hung the box on the plate causing it to bend?
A bent plate would probably judder as well as not disengage properly.
This is a possibility alright,Tvrobin have you taken the car out for any length of time since the job you may have marked the splines of the clutch plate installing the box it happens if your a tad rough installing the box Assuming all is as you say (all ok), is it possible you either damaged the splines going in or hung the box on the plate causing it to bend?
A bent plate would probably judder as well as not disengage properly.
(causing it to lay up a fraction)try going for a drive with plenty of gear changes(avoiding reverse for the moment)and see if it improves,obviously if gear changes are very difficult then ignore my advice thru fear of damaging the synchro,s,try bleeding again with a helper doing the down with the pedal open the nipple close the nipple release the pedal a number of times(dont let the res run dry)anything is worth a try rather than having to remove the box again 
Edited by That Daddy on Saturday 27th September 21:30
This sounds like the problem I had when I built my Cobra. Rover V8/LT77 gearbox. Very difficult to engage reverse, other gears cruching, worse when it got hot.
And the reason?
Like a pr*t I had installed the driven plate the wrong way round.
Not funny having to remove and replace the gearbox/clutch again lying on the floor with the car on stands.
Are you SURE you got it the right way round?
And the reason?
Like a pr*t I had installed the driven plate the wrong way round.
Not funny having to remove and replace the gearbox/clutch again lying on the floor with the car on stands.
Are you SURE you got it the right way round?
Edited by TVR keith on Saturday 27th September 17:04
TVR keith said:
This sounds like the problem I had when I built my Cobra. Rover V8/LT77 gearbox. Very difficult to engage reverse, other gears cruching, worse when it got hot.
And the reason?
Like a pr*t I had installed the driven plate the wrong way round.
Not funny having to remove and replace the gearbox/clutch again lying on the floor with the car on stands.
Are you SURE you got it the right way round?
Oh my god! My friend attached the clutch cover and plate! I have texted him to make sure but he has not responded. I didn't think you could actually get it the wrong way round. I am hoping that I will be able to see through the hole in the bell-housing. Thank you very much for the idea Keith, will let you know.And the reason?
Like a pr*t I had installed the driven plate the wrong way round.
Not funny having to remove and replace the gearbox/clutch again lying on the floor with the car on stands.
Are you SURE you got it the right way round?
Edited by TVR keith on Saturday 27th September 17:04
Kindest regards, Robin
STEP AWAY FROM THE SPANNERS 
not very helpful am i ? 
That Daddy said:
I hope thats not the case Robin,bloody lot of work to rectify something like that(cant see it myself though)say its probably something simpler 
Having reviewed the suggestions here and racked my brain, I can't think what else it could be! Am going to see if I can tell through the inspection hole.Cheers.
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