Discussion
Guys - filled up the car with water and freeze. I also put in a new stat wih jiggle pin and and SD1 top hose for good measure. Filled up in the usual way through the swan neck - capped it off and then topped up the header. Ran the car for 15 mins and the temp gauge shot into the red. Allowed the car cool slightly undid header and there was a pressurised gurgle but the water inside the header was cold!
When filling the car the heater was set to hot and I ran the car at higher revs. The fans were switched on and the temp dropped slightly and there is warm air coming through the heaters.
What I'm concerend about is the water in the header is cold when the engine is being run - does this sound like an airlock?
When filling the car the heater was set to hot and I ran the car at higher revs. The fans were switched on and the temp dropped slightly and there is warm air coming through the heaters.
What I'm concerend about is the water in the header is cold when the engine is being run - does this sound like an airlock?
Air locks seem to be designed into the system!
When I last filled mine I jacked the front of the car up, filled it via the swan neck, ran it for a few seconds, topped it up, ran it, topped it up etc. Did this about 6 times then ran it up to full temp, let it cool down, then topped it up again.
When I last filled mine I jacked the front of the car up, filled it via the swan neck, ran it for a few seconds, topped it up, ran it, topped it up etc. Did this about 6 times then ran it up to full temp, let it cool down, then topped it up again.
In twenty years of Wedge ownership I've never had problems with airlocks. The system I always use is to gradually fill from the swan neck, and squeezing the radiator top and bottom hoses to encourage the air out. When I can get no more coolant in via the swan neck, fit the cap. Then add coolant to about half fill the header tank. Run engine and as the coolant heats, the level in the header will rise. Using the throttle disc linkage, blip the engine and you will keep the coolant moving more quickly.When the level has risen to almost the top, replace the cap, and let the engine complete it's warm-up, checking that the thermostat opens properly (temp. of the hose) and that fan(s) switch in. Allow to cool for a few hours, and top up the header tank.
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Thanx guys - I'll jack up the front when filling, I'm also going to change a couple of hoses and take out the jiggle pin from the thermo. I'm also going to back flush the matrix before fitting a remote fan controller that adjusts the cut in temp. I'll let you know how I get on once its all done...
GV said:
and take out the jiggle pin from the thermo.
I'm wondering why.The jiggler is merely an aid to bleeding that flops in its hole when there is an airspace thereabouts but blocks the hole pretty well when there is no air, just coolant, Thus, allowing hardly any water to move from the manifold until the stat opens.
I think the main source of your problem can be effectively resolved by the BURPING/VACUUM method of coolant fill.
Your cooling layout will be different from mine but the process I advocate should work OK. Fill the rad first and run the engine, stop and refill the rad, repeats a few times, then concentrate on the overflow tank by the Burping/Vacuum method. You can read all about it here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/TipsAndT...
Just remember the process relies on the vacuum created immediate following the burp.
GV said:
Guys - filled up the car with water and freeze. I also put in a new stat wih jiggle pin and and SD1 top hose for good measure. Filled up in the usual way through the swan neck - capped it off and then topped up the header. Ran the car for 15 mins and the temp gauge shot into the red. Allowed the car cool slightly undid header and there was a pressurised gurgle but the water inside the header was cold!
When filling the car the heater was set to hot and I ran the car at higher revs. The fans were switched on and the temp dropped slightly and there is warm air coming through the heaters.
What I'm concerend about is the water in the header is cold when the engine is being run - does this sound like an airlock?
When doing my car i ran it for 30mins,fans came on a few time's to get it circulating around the engine. That done the trick . PS -- A top bleed valve would be good.When filling the car the heater was set to hot and I ran the car at higher revs. The fans were switched on and the temp dropped slightly and there is warm air coming through the heaters.
What I'm concerend about is the water in the header is cold when the engine is being run - does this sound like an airlock?
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