Flymo Motor Testing?
Discussion
Last week my Flymo stopped working all of a sudden. I was mowing the lawn and stopped it to empty the bin, came back, put the bin back on and tried to start it again and it wouldn't start.
So far I have:
- Ensured the power socket is working properly
- Changed the fuse in the flymo power cable for one that definitely works
- Changed the fuse in the extension cable and tested that it does work
- Bypassed the safety switch (and capacitor) on the handle bar of the mower by putting mains power straight to the power cable that goes into the mower body from the handle bar
- Applied mains power straight to the motor terminal spades
All with no luck. Am I correct in thinking that the motor is goosed, and how else can I check it to be sure?
TIA.
So far I have:
- Ensured the power socket is working properly
- Changed the fuse in the flymo power cable for one that definitely works
- Changed the fuse in the extension cable and tested that it does work
- Bypassed the safety switch (and capacitor) on the handle bar of the mower by putting mains power straight to the power cable that goes into the mower body from the handle bar
- Applied mains power straight to the motor terminal spades
All with no luck. Am I correct in thinking that the motor is goosed, and how else can I check it to be sure?
TIA.
Baby Huey said:
Motor goosed, good diagnosis.
Thanks for the reply, would bypassing the capacitor at the on/off switch have an effect?I would have thought that applying power straight to the motor terminals would make the motor turn, but I'm told you need the capacitor in the circuit?

These motors go all the time , I,m from that trade background , the genuine ones used to cost about £40-£50 to replace so depending on how old it is may not be worth replacing it , try http://www.centralspares.co.uk/ if you want a cheap source of replacement , g luck
RedexR said:
These motors go all the time , I,m from that trade background , the genuine ones used to cost about £40-£50 to replace so depending on how old it is may not be worth replacing it , try http://www.centralspares.co.uk/ if you want a cheap source of replacement , g luck
Cheers, I've already found a spares place and written off the mower if it does need a new motor, but I just want to be sure that it is the motor first.I've been told by the father in law that the motor needs the capacitor in the circuit to start. Is that true?

youngsyr said:
Last week my Flymo stopped working all of a sudden. I was mowing the lawn and stopped it to empty the bin, came back, put the bin back on and tried to start it again and it wouldn't start.
So far I have:
- Ensured the power socket is working properly
- Changed the fuse in the flymo power cable for one that definitely works
- Changed the fuse in the extension cable and tested that it does work
- Bypassed the safety switch (and capacitor) on the handle bar of the mower by putting mains power straight to the power cable that goes into the mower body from the handle bar
- Applied mains power straight to the motor terminal spades
All with no luck. Am I correct in thinking that the motor is goosed, and how else can I check it to be sure?
TIA.
Get it looked at by a profesional if in doubt. Safety switches are there for a reason. You should use the correct tools to test the device and NOT the mains power as a proving device. So far I have:
- Ensured the power socket is working properly
- Changed the fuse in the flymo power cable for one that definitely works
- Changed the fuse in the extension cable and tested that it does work
- Bypassed the safety switch (and capacitor) on the handle bar of the mower by putting mains power straight to the power cable that goes into the mower body from the handle bar
- Applied mains power straight to the motor terminal spades
All with no luck. Am I correct in thinking that the motor is goosed, and how else can I check it to be sure?
TIA.
Use a multimeter on OHMS and measure the continuity between the live wire by starting at the plug WITH THE POWER DISCONECTED and work back with the other test probe proving continuity until it goes no further. If you end up with the two motor inputs and you have no reading then the chances are its either a broken wire or your brush cages are shot. Either way it may look harmless enough but 240v will blow your hand off if you give the opportunity to do so.
Also think about the mechanical rotation force that will occur if the motor fires into life - the inertia is enough to rip it out of your hands and leave you with a fist full of live wires. Remember one safety rule if none of this sinks in - THE MACHINE ALWAYS WINS

SS HSV said:
youngsyr said:
Last week my Flymo stopped working all of a sudden. I was mowing the lawn and stopped it to empty the bin, came back, put the bin back on and tried to start it again and it wouldn't start.
So far I have:
- Ensured the power socket is working properly
- Changed the fuse in the flymo power cable for one that definitely works
- Changed the fuse in the extension cable and tested that it does work
- Bypassed the safety switch (and capacitor) on the handle bar of the mower by putting mains power straight to the power cable that goes into the mower body from the handle bar
- Applied mains power straight to the motor terminal spades
All with no luck. Am I correct in thinking that the motor is goosed, and how else can I check it to be sure?
TIA.
Get it looked at by a profesional if in doubt. Safety switches are there for a reason. You should use the correct tools to test the device and NOT the mains power as a proving device. So far I have:
- Ensured the power socket is working properly
- Changed the fuse in the flymo power cable for one that definitely works
- Changed the fuse in the extension cable and tested that it does work
- Bypassed the safety switch (and capacitor) on the handle bar of the mower by putting mains power straight to the power cable that goes into the mower body from the handle bar
- Applied mains power straight to the motor terminal spades
All with no luck. Am I correct in thinking that the motor is goosed, and how else can I check it to be sure?
TIA.
Use a multimeter on OHMS and measure the continuity between the live wire by starting at the plug WITH THE POWER DISCONECTED and work back with the other test probe proving continuity until it goes no further. If you end up with the two motor inputs and you have no reading then the chances are its either a broken wire or your brush cages are shot. Either way it may look harmless enough but 240v will blow your hand off if you give the opportunity to do so.
Also think about the mechanical rotation force that will occur if the motor fires into life - the inertia is enough to rip it out of your hands and leave you with a fist full of live wires. Remember one safety rule if none of this sinks in - THE MACHINE ALWAYS WINS


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