Seized RV8 Head Bolt

Author
Discussion

Chassis 33

Original Poster:

6,194 posts

283 months

Sunday 28th September 2008
quotequote all
Folks, currently stripping a RV8 and I've come a cross a real show stopper. The head bolt next to the exhaust port of no 8 cyl is seized solid. I've tried impact driver, air impact wrench, 3/4" drive bar and scaffold pipe and even attempted drilling out the head but I'm just er...polishing the head of the bolt.

Any ideas? I'm trying to avoid heat to avoid warping anything.
Regards
Iain

Steve_D

13,756 posts

259 months

Sunday 28th September 2008
quotequote all
Have you tried hitting the head of the bolt?

Steve

Boosted LS1

21,190 posts

261 months

Sunday 28th September 2008
quotequote all
Last resort would be to weld a socket to it if shocking it doesn't work.

wildoliver

8,799 posts

217 months

Sunday 28th September 2008
quotequote all
I can't believe an impact socket and long breaker bar won't break it free, but as above a good sharp smack to the head with a hammer (don't miss) or failing that get the bolt hot, that said it may not do the alloy head much good.

Just smack it and then develop some muscles wink

tr7v8

7,202 posts

229 months

Sunday 28th September 2008
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Had this on my 7 years ago, ended up by a dremel & grinding it off. Needless to say the bolt came out with very little effort.

GreenV8S

30,234 posts

285 months

Sunday 28th September 2008
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If you don't already have this site bookmarked, you should do:

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/ToolUse.htm


Pigeon

18,535 posts

247 months

Monday 29th September 2008
quotequote all
Chassis 33 said:
Folks, currently stripping a RV8 and I've come a cross a real show stopper. The head bolt next to the exhaust port of no 8 cyl is seized solid. I've tried impact driver, air impact wrench, 3/4" drive bar and scaffold pipe and even attempted drilling out the head but I'm just er...polishing the head of the bolt.
If you mean you've rounded it off you might as well grind the head off the bolt and then once you've got the cylinder head off the engine you can get medieval on the exposed length.

Chassis 33

Original Poster:

6,194 posts

283 months

Monday 29th September 2008
quotequote all
Cheers folks, finally got the damn thing out using a 15mm impact bit (on what was originally a 16mm head). We used a combination of swearing, distraction methods, bribery and managed to avoid using heat.

Worryingly turned the engine upside down, removed the sump and there's only one bolt holding the oil pickup on, and that was loose by about 5mm. I'm thinking a monkey has been playing with this one in the past. Anyway onwards with the rebuilt and a bit of TLC!

Regards
Iain

That Daddy

18,969 posts

222 months

Monday 29th September 2008
quotequote all
Chassis 33 said:
Cheers folks, finally got the damn thing out using a 15mm impact bit (on what was originally a 16mm head). We used a combination of swearing, distraction methods, bribery and managed to avoid using heat.

Worryingly turned the engine upside down, removed the sump and there's only one bolt holding the oil pickup on, and that was loose by about 5mm. I'm thinking a monkey has been playing with this one in the past. Anyway onwards with the rebuilt and a bit of TLC!

Regards
Iain
Chassis 33,that is a common problem,i would recommend using blue thread lock on refitting of said pipe or staking & even lockwire the bolts heads thumbup

Chassis 33

Original Poster:

6,194 posts

283 months

Monday 29th September 2008
quotequote all
I'll be using a stud kit on the rebuild so hopefully it won't be an issue if there ever is a next time.
Regards
Iain

rev-erend

21,433 posts

285 months

Monday 29th September 2008
quotequote all
Some great advice on that web site ..

Re the stud kit - don't forget the head has to slid up the studs and that might make removal in situ more difficult.

Chassis 33

Original Poster:

6,194 posts

283 months

Monday 29th September 2008
quotequote all
Thanks for the heads up Rev, not considered that...however not an issue with this planned installation.
Regards
Iain