Important jobs for the winter (stainless steel bolts/fixings
Discussion
Have found company on inernet that can supply you with all the nuts, bolts,and washers and funny things that not have a clue what are called made of nice shiny stainless steel. done some on mine, those little allen bolts that hold the bonnet stregthening brace on. www.stagonset.co.uk
came in the post next day very good service Cheers Mateys C/P
came in the post next day very good service Cheers Mateys C/PThats ok Paul,found another site telling you strength codes for high tensile bolts
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Mate...
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Mate...
Why buy some of these low grade 'SS' fixings when Titanium or Xenon fasteners are much nicer anyway
Do make sure they are of a decent grade SS, which a lot of these e-bay things are not... Much of this rubbish is imported en-masse from Italy and the quality is not always what you expect.
Many off the shelf items are produced with rolled threads and as such the qa is not great (even the thread specs are quite wide ranging IMO). Fine with a softer material when you put it into an expensive alloy head, but the harder bolts may behave more like a tap. I would always advise running your own taps & dies over these fixings first. At the risk of stripping threads in your heads and the cost / aggravation to fix it is definitely a case of caveat emptor IMHO. I haven't even mentioned the dilemma of bolts v set screws (I know Rover & TVR didn't always select the best option to start off with
)
Do make sure they are of a decent grade SS, which a lot of these e-bay things are not... Much of this rubbish is imported en-masse from Italy and the quality is not always what you expect.
Many off the shelf items are produced with rolled threads and as such the qa is not great (even the thread specs are quite wide ranging IMO). Fine with a softer material when you put it into an expensive alloy head, but the harder bolts may behave more like a tap. I would always advise running your own taps & dies over these fixings first. At the risk of stripping threads in your heads and the cost / aggravation to fix it is definitely a case of caveat emptor IMHO. I haven't even mentioned the dilemma of bolts v set screws (I know Rover & TVR didn't always select the best option to start off with
)cornish pasty said:
Thats ok Paul,found another site telling you strength codes for high tensile bolts
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Mate...
The main reason not to use SS for suspension is that SS bolts are brittle and snap while the steel one bend. So hitting a kerb hard will simply bend a bolt but still stay in place while a SS will usually sheer and off comes the wishbone/wheel etc. I know what I would rather have happen. http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Mate...
I used yacht quality SS bolts when I built my Triton and the problem was that they undid themselves even with spring washers. Loctite, which I swear by, even had problems. In the end I used locknuts but you could only use them once or twice as they would not maintain pressure.
To be fair, the Triumph pre-unit 650 did vibrate a bit, even when switched off.
But as stated, you have to be sure that you use the right tensile thingie ones as they can be brittle.
To be fair, the Triumph pre-unit 650 did vibrate a bit, even when switched off.
But as stated, you have to be sure that you use the right tensile thingie ones as they can be brittle.
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