Hydralastic Suspention
Hydralastic Suspention
Author
Discussion

john p

Original Poster:

199 posts

238 months

Friday 3rd October 2008
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Hello all,i'm new to old Minis,so please forgive any stupid questions.I've just bought a 1968 Morris Mini 1000 as a running restoration.I've noticed today whilst having a look round underneath the front,the inner knuckle joint has come dislodged from the hydralastic unit.The last owner had the system overhauled last year,so it has probably been like it since then,as I cant see how it could have come out on its own.I've tried to lever it back in,but no joy.Do I need to have the system depressurised,or is there another way? Would it be worth having the system removed,and replace it with rubber cones? or should I stick with it?Many thanks John.

guru_1071

2,768 posts

255 months

Saturday 4th October 2008
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you will need to let the system down, fit the knuckle back into its cup and pump it back up.

you dont need a special tool to let it down, just stick a small screwdriver into the valve thats on the back frame (watch out though,as they go pretty low and the fluild is rank if it gets on you)

then you can either pump it back up (the pump can be used to let it down and collect the fluid if you have one) or trailer it to a place that has a pump.

you wont be able to drive it on the road.

id leave it hydro if it works ok, a set of shocks fitted to the front tames the pitching ride out of it and you get a really nice magic carpet ride.

john p

Original Poster:

199 posts

238 months

Saturday 4th October 2008
quotequote all
Thanks for that,i've just read in the manual that you can drive it a short distance with the system down,there's a garage about a mile away,so i'll see if they can inflate it again.I'm reluctant to get rid of it as it is a very nice ride,much better than any other Mini I have been in with Rubber suspention.

111Robin

23 posts

233 months

Monday 6th October 2008
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It would be easier to use a hydrolastic pump to evacuate the system and in doing so, pull the diaphragm up into the displacer to give you more clearance to ease the knuckle joint back into the arm.

guru_1071

2,768 posts

255 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
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111Robin said:
It would be easier to use a hydrolastic pump to evacuate the system and in doing so, pull the diaphragm up into the displacer to give you more clearance to ease the knuckle joint back into the arm.
its very hard to find the old vac type darlek pumps though, all the ones ive owned or used have struggled to vacume the system fully.

all the modern types just pressuise the system, when you connect them up 99% of the fluild comes out.

the vacume part is only really required when the whole system has been in bits, for just a displacer or pipe change pumping it up and letting it down after a day or so then repumping it will do fine

john p

Original Poster:

199 posts

238 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
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Do I need to remove the displacer to change the gaiter,or can it be done in situ?Rain has stopped play at the moment.

guru_1071

2,768 posts

255 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
quotequote all
you can do it in situ, its a bit of a fiddle to get your hands round the back of the displacer, but more preferable that disconecting everything and spending ages fixing the resultant leaks!


Cooperman

4,428 posts

271 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
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This thread has now firmly convinced me to restore my 'work-in-progress' 1966 Morris Mini-Minor 850 with dry suspension!

111Robin

23 posts

233 months

Tuesday 7th October 2008
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Correct about the pump, I just happen to have an old unit with both vacuum and pressure circuits so didn't think it would be a problem. I've always evacuated the system when replacing a knuckle joint, helps to be in the motor trade I guess.

jammy_basturd

29,778 posts

233 months

Wednesday 17th December 2008
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Sorry to bring this back up, but considering buying a completely original '68 Mini 1000. Obviously I'd begrudge having to convert it to dry suspension due to its originality and wondering exactly how hard it is to stay with wet suspension. Is it not possible to get the displacer units reconditioned? What about the helper springs, anywhere where they can still be bought?

guru_1071

2,768 posts

255 months

Wednesday 17th December 2008
quotequote all
jammy_basturd said:
Sorry to bring this back up, but considering buying a completely original '68 Mini 1000. Obviously I'd begrudge having to convert it to dry suspension due to its originality and wondering exactly how hard it is to stay with wet suspension. Is it not possible to get the displacer units reconditioned? What about the helper springs, anywhere where they can still be bought?
jammy

buy it and enjoy it. all the bits can be got if it goes wrong. if the displacers are knackered you just sling them away, as bar a sandblast and repaint you cant do anything to them.

hydro isnt so good on a fast road car as it pitches a lot, you can spend time messing to make it better, but having done all that in the past i wouldnt bother now, id just leave it as std (maybe a pair of shocks on the front just to tame the worse out)

one of the best years mini motoring i ever has was with a 100 quid 1960 mk one i got from a scrappys with hydro (it was a rung 1967 car that had been used as a number plate selling slave.....thats the 'honest motor trade' for you!) it drove like a dream and was very comfey.

maybe its just me getting old............

smile


jammy_basturd

29,778 posts

233 months

Wednesday 17th December 2008
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I guess I missed the most important bit of my post! rolleyes The front is low, so I suspect either it needs pumping, rear springs or new displacers or possibly all three, so I have to factor in the potential cost of difficulty of sourcing parts as to whether it's a worthwhile buy or not.

Since 'Spares no longer have both the displacers (£300 each when they had them though) or the springs I get the impression that it might be a bit difficult/expensive to keep the wet stuff maintained. Personally I love the idea of keeping the wet stuff. The Mini would only be used for getting me back and forth to work for a few months (mainly country lanes), and I'd heard the wet stuff gives a really good ride, especially when coupled with dampers at the front and comp. bump stops! Just wouldn't want to be the one to rip out the wet stuff in favour of donuts, plus I don't think I've got time to do that amount of work.

guru_1071

2,768 posts

255 months

Thursday 18th December 2008
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id change the front knuckles, the work like a normal mini, so as they wear the front drops.

then, when you pressure it back up, go round the block (to let it settle) and have a measure - if the heights are correct front and back its fine, if the back is still high, stick a washer between the front knuckle and its holder. this will lift the front without the back (as the higher the pressure, the higher the rear will go (in normal operation)

if you want it to be lower at the back, simply stick another washer (or two) in the front, then the pressure can be messed with to get the 'stance' you want.

its a very easy system to work with - though buying a pump tool (and a decent one at that) is well recomnded.