Discussion
I have a 1440cc 1980 mini.
i have had clutch issues for a while now. I replaced the clutch as it was slipping after an oil seal let go.
put it all back together and I couldn't get the clutch to fully release. cutting a long story short. this is what has been replaced. One bit at a time and constantly the same situation is present, that i can put it in gear when not running, i can hold her on the brakes and the engine doesn't stall (albeit labours) but i can't change gear when running. It must be so close to releasing. Anyway the list of changes.
Master Cylinder
Clutch hose
Slave Cylinder
Clutch Arm
Clutch friction plate
Cluch pressure plate
Crank Shaft (I was told the nose was knackered)
Thrust Bearing
I even took some advice and had the clutch arm bent up a bit which got me even closer to having it running but alas still I cannot change gear. I am almost ready to sell it as it is, which is currently without MOT as I can't put her back through. Really I am at a loss.
HELP ME PLEASE.
i have had clutch issues for a while now. I replaced the clutch as it was slipping after an oil seal let go.
put it all back together and I couldn't get the clutch to fully release. cutting a long story short. this is what has been replaced. One bit at a time and constantly the same situation is present, that i can put it in gear when not running, i can hold her on the brakes and the engine doesn't stall (albeit labours) but i can't change gear when running. It must be so close to releasing. Anyway the list of changes.
Master Cylinder
Clutch hose
Slave Cylinder
Clutch Arm
Clutch friction plate
Cluch pressure plate
Crank Shaft (I was told the nose was knackered)
Thrust Bearing
I even took some advice and had the clutch arm bent up a bit which got me even closer to having it running but alas still I cannot change gear. I am almost ready to sell it as it is, which is currently without MOT as I can't put her back through. Really I am at a loss.
HELP ME PLEASE.
1. Check the crankshaft end-float. It should be no more than 0.005". To do this, remove the starter motor and put a dial gauge on the bit of flywheel you can see through the aperture. Pus the flywheelas far one way as it will go, zero the DTI, then push the flywhel as far the other way as it will go and see what the float is. If it's excessive it could cause your problem.
2. Have you replaced the diaphragm? I once had this problem on a Cooper Mk. 1 rally car to which I fitted a heavy-duty clutch diaphragm. I then had your type of problem and it turned out to be the after-market diaphragm which was oversize and not running true. replacement with a genuine Borg & Beck unit cured it immediately - well, that is after the crankshaft bearings had been b******d due to having to adjust the error out on the clutch adjustment stop.
3. Is it a verto unit? If it is, replace the whole thing with a Mk.1/Mk.2 unit, including flywheel and starter ring and starter motor. Note that Mk.1/2 and Verto starter rings are different and a Verto-type starter motor won't work with a pre-Verto starter ring.
2. Have you replaced the diaphragm? I once had this problem on a Cooper Mk. 1 rally car to which I fitted a heavy-duty clutch diaphragm. I then had your type of problem and it turned out to be the after-market diaphragm which was oversize and not running true. replacement with a genuine Borg & Beck unit cured it immediately - well, that is after the crankshaft bearings had been b******d due to having to adjust the error out on the clutch adjustment stop.
3. Is it a verto unit? If it is, replace the whole thing with a Mk.1/Mk.2 unit, including flywheel and starter ring and starter motor. Note that Mk.1/2 and Verto starter rings are different and a Verto-type starter motor won't work with a pre-Verto starter ring.
It is a Verto type. Not ideal for an engine of that power but it was in there when i got her.
How much work is involved in putting it back to a Diaphragm (spelling?) clutch. 'er indoors is starting to moan about it taking up space in the garage and not working. I have either to get rid of, or get working. SOON.
Anyone West Sussex direction up for helping?
How much work is involved in putting it back to a Diaphragm (spelling?) clutch. 'er indoors is starting to moan about it taking up space in the garage and not working. I have either to get rid of, or get working. SOON.
Anyone West Sussex direction up for helping?
First - Check friction plate running freely on crank primary. Any burrs will cause problems.
You mentioned a crank swap
Might not be the (original) crank nose that is shafted - taper on flywheel buggered instead of the crank?Is the flywheel too far down the taper?
Is the Flywhel nipping crank primary?
Try a flywheel swap - standard one will do. If this sorts the problem you have root cause.
Original Flywheel (I'm guessing a lightened job ) can machined (deeper) to clear the C clip thrust washers. You're original flywheel might not be scrapped.
Let us know how you get on - Cooperman and Guru1071 will be along in a minit
Bugga
Verto - double bugga. Cooperman is right - get a standard flywheel set-up on there. And as for er'indoors. Threaten her with a new Patio, one with very solid foundations
You mentioned a crank swap
Might not be the (original) crank nose that is shafted - taper on flywheel buggered instead of the crank?Is the flywheel too far down the taper?
Is the Flywhel nipping crank primary?
Try a flywheel swap - standard one will do. If this sorts the problem you have root cause.
Original Flywheel (I'm guessing a lightened job ) can machined (deeper) to clear the C clip thrust washers. You're original flywheel might not be scrapped.
Let us know how you get on - Cooperman and Guru1071 will be along in a minit
Bugga
Edited by FWDRacer on Thursday 9th October 16:33
Verto - double bugga. Cooperman is right - get a standard flywheel set-up on there. And as for er'indoors. Threaten her with a new Patio, one with very solid foundations
Edited by FWDRacer on Thursday 9th October 16:36
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