Have your Tuscan 1 heater ECU repaired
Discussion
I have had the same problem with a burnt out heater ECU for Tuscan 1. I opened up the unit and discovered that several of the soldered connections to the multipin had melted. The blower worked only for a few moments before stopping. I assume poor connections failing as the temprature in the circuits rose and disrupted the connections.
I sent the unit to a printed circuit board repair company. They fixed it in one day for £44.00. They remade all of the connections to the pins and checked all the components on the board which were working. The unit was in next day's post. I plugged it in and it now works perfectly.
I strongly recommend this company who will only charge if they work on /fix the PCB.
Electroveral Ltd., Unit 2 Sedgwick Road, Luton, Bedfordshire, LU4 9DT. Tel: 01582 582023 Fax: 01582 582087
I sent the unit to a printed circuit board repair company. They fixed it in one day for £44.00. They remade all of the connections to the pins and checked all the components on the board which were working. The unit was in next day's post. I plugged it in and it now works perfectly.
I strongly recommend this company who will only charge if they work on /fix the PCB.
Electroveral Ltd., Unit 2 Sedgwick Road, Luton, Bedfordshire, LU4 9DT. Tel: 01582 582023 Fax: 01582 582087
cube said:
thanks for the info.....where is the Heater ECU located please?
Reach up under the passenger foot well behind the dash. Mine just hangs there! I tie wrapped it to some cables so it didn't fall down again. I think originally it's fixed up behind the dash up under the passenger side.This is my experience of the heaterrelay (inc a pic)
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Russian Rocket said:
This is my experience of the heaterrelay (inc a pic)
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Looks like yours is the Tuscan 2 version. The Mk1 is quite different with a great big 25 pin connector.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I have so far fixed mine by doing my best to solder the power connecter onto the wire with a thin soldering iron tip and solder wire through the back of the connector.
I removed mine (MK1 ME049) to send it off but then had a play and managed to fix it by cleaning up the heater blower power pin. The plastic had started to melt around it and so I cleaned it all away with a sharp knife and scraped the pin clean. This took about 5 minutes. Seems to work fine now, but I expect more trouble with it.
The symptoms of this fault are that everything works except the heater blower fan motor.
The symptoms of this fault are that everything works except the heater blower fan motor.
My heater has been tempramental at best (MK1). When it stops working, or more often when it never starts, the LED by the fan control switch flickers very quickly and at the same time the temperature control LED and aircon LED also flicker.
Are these symptoms of the same failure as being discussed?
Are these symptoms of the same failure as being discussed?
Hi Jeast.
I don't know. With mine, all the LED's and everything else including the A/C worked absolutely perfectly. It was only that the heater blower fan had never worked since I purchased the car.
Look at the heater ecu pins, you will soon see if any are discoloured or if the plastic around them has melted. It only takes a few minutes to clean them up. Using switch cleaner is a good idea.
I don't know. With mine, all the LED's and everything else including the A/C worked absolutely perfectly. It was only that the heater blower fan had never worked since I purchased the car.
Look at the heater ecu pins, you will soon see if any are discoloured or if the plastic around them has melted. It only takes a few minutes to clean them up. Using switch cleaner is a good idea.
The company Eletroversal, mentioned on my first post on this, will remake all burnt out connections to the circuit board. They also bypassed the burnt heater blower pin, which carries all the current and overheats, by connecting a wire straight on to the board. All I had to do was connect a single block connector directly to the wire of the pin causing the problem. This has solved the problem (so far) with much less heating up of the control unit.
The technician has even phoned me to discuss the problem and tell me of his solution. The unit comes back in 2 working days!! You can't beat that for service!
The technician has even phoned me to discuss the problem and tell me of his solution. The unit comes back in 2 working days!! You can't beat that for service!
Good question. I don't know. They might be able to fit a new display to the board. I suggest asking them. I found talking to the technician very helpful. They may wish to see the unit before commenting. I have just replaced my display and have posted my experience on this already on this site. I would be interested to know how you get on.
onny said:
Would they be able to sort out the LCD display missing lines problems? Its also just a pcd. If they can its a lot cheaper than getting a replacement.
I heard that the 'newer' version of the heater ECU was different to the original - mine just has one LED light that represents the temperature and I was another car where they all lit up into the temp you are at.
Small thing but worth having as I cannot see my temp light as the switch is in the way when its hot.
Not sure if there any other changes
Small thing but worth having as I cannot see my temp light as the switch is in the way when its hot.
Not sure if there any other changes
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