Clutch slave problem / questions

[trickjohn]

Well at least I did nearly 300 miles before another problem!

I have an s3c.

The clutch fluid is leaking out of the slave cylinder where the pipe goes in. I have undone the pipe and the end looked OK, so I have done it up as tight as reasonably possible (the spanner faces are quite worn)and the fluid still hammers out (not a slow weep), so I think that the pipe must have a pin hole in it.

Does anyone know the size of the thread of the slave fluid in - or if the fixing is still available.

I believe that there are alternative slave cylinders - eg landrover, (anyone know part numbers etc), however the thread input is different - as it looks that I have to replace the pipe I could put a different end on, or is there a flexible pipe that would be a direct fit.

If anyone has a bright ideas or any help into solving my latest problem, please let me know.

Regards Sean

[GreenV8S]

Do you have enough length to cut the pipe short and put a new end on it? That would potentially save you a bit of time and effort replacing the whole thing and would avoid having to buy any new fittings. (Although if the nut is rounding off, you might want to get it replaced anyway while you have it apart.)

[Barkychoc]

Check that the pipe isn't cracked - you might find if you flex it to one side you can see the crack.
A rigid pipe from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder with the engine flexing was never a great idea.

[GreenV8S]

Barkychoc said:

Check that the pipe isn't cracked - you might find if you flex it to one side you can see the crack.
A rigid pipe from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder with the engine flexing was never a great idea.

True, I went through loads of copper pipes on my S2 before changing to plastic. But the V8S has a copper pipe too and I've never had any problems with it.

[trickjohn]

Hi - The pipe is long enough, but it is incredibly stiff / strong probably work hardened over the years and may have stress cracks, so it would be better to replace it.

What plastic pipe did you use and what where the thread ends? Would it work on an S3 (yours was an S2).

Any help would be greatly appriciated.

Sean

[Dave_M]

I'm no mechanic Sean, we had problems with my S2, the replacement cylinder was just a little too large. We took the insides out and put them back in the old one, worked fine.

Dave

[merky300]

Sean

I recently changed my slave cylinder and whilst I was at it I cut the end of the pipe and fitted a new pipe nut as the old one was rounded off. The slave had a 12mm thread, not easy to find with a 1/4" bore.

Tony

[clarenceboddiger]

trickjohn said:

Hi - The pipe is long enough, but it is incredibly stiff / strong probably work hardened over the years and may have stress cracks, so it would be better to replace it.
Sean

It may be a steel pipe, if it is then the standard pipe flaring tools won't cope with it, for the cost I would replace the full length and have peace of mnd.

[pringli]

Like a previous post it is 1/4" and with 12mm threads - complete b*stard to flare yourself unless you have a pro tool - the usual diy ones will not work. Also getting the ends is a problem and then to cap it all getting the bends sorted while in situ is a t*at as the pipe is so stiff. Most of the bending on mine was done with the body off and using the old one as a template. I got an ex racing man to do the ends for me and he said he wouldnt have bothered with the 1/4" pipe he would have used Aeroquip as :

A. the flexing ceases to be a problem
B. fitting is a piece of cake
C. he reckoned cost of short length of pipe + two ends + cost (to get someone else) to flare would be roughly same as Aeroquip and a much neater job, to which I agree (but already had the bits).

[mep12345]

pringli said:

Aeroquip

Call me mister thicky, but what is aeroquip?

[pringli]

ok mister thicky flexible hose usually with stainless outer - can be made to your own spec with ends that match components

Edited by pringli on Monday 13th October 15:16

[mep12345]

pringli said:

ok mister thicky flexible hose usually with stainless outer - can be made to your own spec with ends that match components

Edited by pringli on Monday 13th October 15:16

Thanks

Dunces cap is on and I'm standing in the corner

[trickjohn]

Hi all - Ive ordered a pipe from Automec (Tel [phone]) - Its comes with the correct ends on in a striaght form 48 to 49 inches long (approx 1232mm, Barky any chance of measuring yours for me (clutch pipe) I know yours is the V8 however it should be somewhere in the parish - they had it quoted as an S3 and tell me they used to make them for TVR. Less than £18 including delivery - given the option I would have been using the flexible one in the above posts - so I will let you know how I get on.

Regards Sean

[pringli]

Sean, try and do all the bending (of the pipe ) using the old pipe as a template. You need to remove it with care as there are a lot of bends that make it awkward, and the temptation is to straighten some of them out. Take extra care with the last bend into both the slave and master cylinders as they are tight and increase risk of kinking the pipe. A pipe bender is great if you can get your hands on one. Good luck

[trickjohn]

Its going to be a bit of a mare as I cunningly tie wrapped it to the center of the chassis above the gearbox - see pic taken during the engine rebuild a month or so ago, the chance of getting down the back of the engine to cut it is nill and I dont fancy breaking my arm in 3 or 4 places to get above the gearbox and cut it. Therefore Im sure it will need to be cut in half to be removed, but the halfs could be used as a template still.



If all else fails I can buy a flexible hose from the people that supplied the copper one to me - as shown in their flyer that they kindly provided me with - DOH

Regards Sean

Edited by trickjohn on Wednesday 15th October 18:06

[clarenceboddiger]

trickjohn said:

Therefore Im sure it will need to be cut in half to be removed, but the halfs could be used as a template still.

Regards Sean

If you do have to cut it, it may be worth scribing a line along the pipe and cut in the middle of the scribed line, that way you can line it up after cutting

[trickjohn]

I was considering cutting the pipe at an angle so it could be re created, there is a really tight bend just before the slave cylinder so I may drop the pipe lower under the car to do that one first and do it up and complete the easier access top part after - Sunday Ill have a go at it.

Regards Sean

[trickjohn]

So I got the new pipe in, went to put the slave back on the gearbox and there was only one stud instead of 2, the top one is missing and its not under the car, therefore it must have fallen in the bell housing b*****ks I removed the starter motor and will have a poke about with a magnet - so if that fails I will have to drop the gearbox or move it rearward to get my hand in there to get it. AHHHHHHHHHH

Sean

[pringli]

Sean, my memory isnt the best but what studs and isnt the starter motor on the other side? or have you got a v8?

[trickjohn]

Hi its a V6, the 2 studs are the ones that hold the gearbox clutch slave in place - or just the one in my case. Its rearward and upward of the starter motor - passenger side.

Sean