Roll Bar any good?
Discussion
Has anybody seen, fitted, bought one of the Roll Bars made by T.R. Lane Fabrications as sold on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TVR-GRIFFITH-CHIMAERA-ROLL-BAR_W0QQitemZ200259680191QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200259680191&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A13%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14) and previously on Pistonheads?
They're very reasonably priced but the question is, do they actually provide any protection?
Has anybody fitted anything else they would recommend? I'm after something good enough for trackdays that I can attach hardnesses to.
They're very reasonably priced but the question is, do they actually provide any protection?
Has anybody fitted anything else they would recommend? I'm after something good enough for trackdays that I can attach hardnesses to.
Nobody is able to give assurance regarding protection level because there has not been any crash testing. That said they are manufactured out of appropriate material and appear to have a solid design. They are attached to the chassis in a reasonable way. The top mounts are fine, the bottom mounts are a little weak but still very substantial.
There is a marked increase in road noise behind your head and when stones hit the chassis the ringing sound is transmitted into the bar.
You will lose a little backrest space.
They are relatively easy to fit for anyone with a little mechanical ability.
Some helpful hints:
Identifying the cut points for the top mounts is easy if you first drill a pilot hole in approximately the right place then shine a torch through the hole whilst going under the car to see how far you are from the bosses.
Top mount bosses will need cleaning. Acquire a 7/16 UNF tap to clean the thread.
I found if difficult to align the top mounts. In the end I fitted 7/16 UNF screwed bar (actually just cut down some long bolts) into each boss. This made the alignment process easy.
Before securing the top mounts (Aligned on the screwed bar) I marked up for the bottom bolts.
I replaced the bottom bolts with metric equivalents.
There is a marked increase in road noise behind your head and when stones hit the chassis the ringing sound is transmitted into the bar.
You will lose a little backrest space.
They are relatively easy to fit for anyone with a little mechanical ability.
Some helpful hints:
Identifying the cut points for the top mounts is easy if you first drill a pilot hole in approximately the right place then shine a torch through the hole whilst going under the car to see how far you are from the bosses.
Top mount bosses will need cleaning. Acquire a 7/16 UNF tap to clean the thread.
I found if difficult to align the top mounts. In the end I fitted 7/16 UNF screwed bar (actually just cut down some long bolts) into each boss. This made the alignment process easy.
Before securing the top mounts (Aligned on the screwed bar) I marked up for the bottom bolts.
I replaced the bottom bolts with metric equivalents.
Edited by tvrbob on Tuesday 14th October 10:18
I've ordered one for each of the Griffs but have gone for the top spec which comes out nearer the £400 mark but I think worth the extra. I get more concerned about what would happen should it roll (dread the thought) and many of the bars on offer are cosmetic and would probably make a bad situation worse so have been hanging on. Didn't wnat to go full cage so I think this is a good compromise. Gone for the same spoec as jeffsy's in matt black and will get Neil Garner to fit it as he's done a fair few now. Should be completed within a week I would have thought so then need to arrange fitting so hopefully by end November latest they should both be done.
FFG
FFG
The only concern I have of the type of bar shown in the ebay advert is how low it appears. I think anybody who's tall might struggle to have their head below the actual top of the bar.
I have a factory bar in mine and although not as cosmetically pleasing, it is as high as possible to still be operational under the height of the roof.
I hope to God nobody has to try them out to see which is best. The last thing you'd want to be doing mid roll is working out which end of the car you need to be pointing your head at.
I have a factory bar in mine and although not as cosmetically pleasing, it is as high as possible to still be operational under the height of the roof.
I hope to God nobody has to try them out to see which is best. The last thing you'd want to be doing mid roll is working out which end of the car you need to be pointing your head at.
Edited by lazyitus on Tuesday 14th October 16:26
Got one in mine and in fact I was involved in the design... Neil Garner had many years in F1 and it was his suggestion regarding the cross bracing for the sideways roll support.
Iv not had any issues with noise off stones hitting the chassis but the height could be an issue if you are very tall, I suppose. There is some compromise as you still want to be able to put the back roof up and down.
I went this way as I didnt want the full roll cage so as to keep the car as a GT rather than a racer (in my own eyes). I cant vouch for the safety in terms of actual roll as, thank God, I nor anyone who has one has rolled yet (to the best of my knowledge).
The floor fitting goes down nicely behind the seats with a very small amount of seat throw lost. Im 6' 1" and its still fine for me. On the back shelf some tailering by your local carpet fitter/trimmer is required and the guy I used did the piping around the edge of the carpet as well to make it look a pro job.
There is an added bonus as you lose very little back shelf space but also acquire a bar across the apperture between the two seats which actually helps stuff stay in place on the back shelf
There are some pictures in March 2008 Sprint magazine . Also I have attempted to add some below ..if they work...
Dave (OP) - if you are only 20 miles or so from Stroud then you are uber close to me as well (I live sounth of Cirnecester). You can pop around to have a look if you like...drop me a PM through here.
cheers
Graham
Edited to add: Just checked the link and mine is also the higher spec one and not the one in the link. It therefore has the extra cross bracing to support during any roll.
Iv not had any issues with noise off stones hitting the chassis but the height could be an issue if you are very tall, I suppose. There is some compromise as you still want to be able to put the back roof up and down.
I went this way as I didnt want the full roll cage so as to keep the car as a GT rather than a racer (in my own eyes). I cant vouch for the safety in terms of actual roll as, thank God, I nor anyone who has one has rolled yet (to the best of my knowledge).
The floor fitting goes down nicely behind the seats with a very small amount of seat throw lost. Im 6' 1" and its still fine for me. On the back shelf some tailering by your local carpet fitter/trimmer is required and the guy I used did the piping around the edge of the carpet as well to make it look a pro job.
There is an added bonus as you lose very little back shelf space but also acquire a bar across the apperture between the two seats which actually helps stuff stay in place on the back shelf
There are some pictures in March 2008 Sprint magazine . Also I have attempted to add some below ..if they work...
Dave (OP) - if you are only 20 miles or so from Stroud then you are uber close to me as well (I live sounth of Cirnecester). You can pop around to have a look if you like...drop me a PM through here.
cheers
Graham
Edited to add: Just checked the link and mine is also the higher spec one and not the one in the link. It therefore has the extra cross bracing to support during any roll.
Edited by jeffsy on Tuesday 14th October 16:51
AntonyJ said:
That looks alot better IMHO, who made that?
Caged, oddly enough they make roll cages for a living, very good at it to. http://www.therollcagepeople.com/
steve-V8s said:
AntonyJ said:
That looks alot better IMHO, who made that?
Caged, oddly enough they make roll cages for a living, very good at it to. http://www.therollcagepeople.com/
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff