'short drop windows' - which parts?
Discussion
Hello all,
You know the one's.... operate the fob and the windows drop half an inch for you to open the door without catching on the rubber seals of the targa roof and then windows close up after you get in and turn ignition key.
I talking of a older Chimaera here.
Question... can anyone tell me where (which car/model) I can get the necessary equipment for this modification and any detailed instructions.
I've spoken to David Beer about this and he kindly referred me to a website as he's a bit busy these days with Clarion to do much with modwise. However, I can't find anything on the web with the information I need.
Thanks in anticipation.
You know the one's.... operate the fob and the windows drop half an inch for you to open the door without catching on the rubber seals of the targa roof and then windows close up after you get in and turn ignition key.
I talking of a older Chimaera here.
Question... can anyone tell me where (which car/model) I can get the necessary equipment for this modification and any detailed instructions.
I've spoken to David Beer about this and he kindly referred me to a website as he's a bit busy these days with Clarion to do much with modwise. However, I can't find anything on the web with the information I need.
Thanks in anticipation.
Short drop functionality is these days either built into the electronic door control module or integrated into the window regulator motor. I'm assure that it is not as a simple an operation as it appears. The action is triggered by switches either in the door handle or door latch release lever for opening and either the latch door ajar switch or a striker plunger for the closure - you'll need a very good grasp of electronics to work out which part of the circuit these inputs feed.
A lot of this information is proprietary and so not easily found. Are you sure you've exhausted all traditional methods of window alignment and got the latest version of the roof panel rubbers before starting?
dumbfunk
A lot of this information is proprietary and so not easily found. Are you sure you've exhausted all traditional methods of window alignment and got the latest version of the roof panel rubbers before starting?
dumbfunk
davidindevon said:
Question... can anyone tell me where (which car/model) I can get the necessary equipment for this modification and any detailed instructions.
This might be a good place to start:http://www.thetvrshop.com/TVR/Parts_details/TVR%20...
Morning and thanks Dumfunk and Ribol.
Yes David Beer was working on such a kit and I've always found him to be extremely helpful but the Clarion audio business demands all his time.
I believe his aim was to utilise simple wiring/diodes/relays to achieve the same result as modern short drop windows but at a fraction of the cost - an important consideration - he may yet turn his hand to this but only when and if time allows.
Yes I'm up to date on the rubbers thanks(correct type/correct position and fit) and the windows open and close correctly and stop in the correct positions etc.
The back screen, header rail and associated seals are all in good condition too.
Also with the targa lid removed the doors close nicely and are a nice fit against the rest of the rubbers - they are also a nice fit against the rubbers when the targa lid is fitted... which is my problem!
Whilst the top edge of the windows do slightly catch the rubber seal on the targa lid that's not the main issue. When I go to close the door the airtight seal around the door opening is so good (even with the indents in the rubber beneath doors/dash vents etc etc)that the temporary air pressure caused by closing the door cannot escape and the door will not close. Result I go through a sequence of opening the door repeatedly and slamming ever harder until it closes or alternatively pressing the door shut with my butt! Sound familiar to many of you I expect.
Now if the windows were in the short drop position (I've tried them in that position) the doors close ever so easily - sigh!
Does anyone know anyone on here who has done any version of this mod that i might turn to for advice? Anyone perhaps on the (ahem cough cough) Griff forum?
Thanks again.
Yes David Beer was working on such a kit and I've always found him to be extremely helpful but the Clarion audio business demands all his time.
I believe his aim was to utilise simple wiring/diodes/relays to achieve the same result as modern short drop windows but at a fraction of the cost - an important consideration - he may yet turn his hand to this but only when and if time allows.
Yes I'm up to date on the rubbers thanks(correct type/correct position and fit) and the windows open and close correctly and stop in the correct positions etc.
The back screen, header rail and associated seals are all in good condition too.
Also with the targa lid removed the doors close nicely and are a nice fit against the rest of the rubbers - they are also a nice fit against the rubbers when the targa lid is fitted... which is my problem!
Whilst the top edge of the windows do slightly catch the rubber seal on the targa lid that's not the main issue. When I go to close the door the airtight seal around the door opening is so good (even with the indents in the rubber beneath doors/dash vents etc etc)that the temporary air pressure caused by closing the door cannot escape and the door will not close. Result I go through a sequence of opening the door repeatedly and slamming ever harder until it closes or alternatively pressing the door shut with my butt! Sound familiar to many of you I expect.
Now if the windows were in the short drop position (I've tried them in that position) the doors close ever so easily - sigh!
Does anyone know anyone on here who has done any version of this mod that i might turn to for advice? Anyone perhaps on the (ahem cough cough) Griff forum?
Thanks again.
Well it is in a dry AND heated garage so no condensation or mould problems.
I tend to leave the car open aswell most of the time it's in the garage unless there is a roosting or nesting bird when I put a cover over it.
Yes it has the black plastic speaker/vents in the back of the cabin - no speakers fitted.
It's when I go out somewhere (shops/pub/seaside etc) and need to leave it for a while with the targa fitted for security (as well as avoiding a seat full of seagull poo of chav/pikey spittle) that I'm faced with the problem... slam, slam harder, slam again, Oh bugger it SLAAAAMMM! and people look round at the prat who can't close his door!
Plus all the door trim along the top edge of the door starts to work loose again. It is a real pain believe me.
Thanks for keep trying to come up with helpfull suggestions.
Cheers
I tend to leave the car open aswell most of the time it's in the garage unless there is a roosting or nesting bird when I put a cover over it.
Yes it has the black plastic speaker/vents in the back of the cabin - no speakers fitted.
It's when I go out somewhere (shops/pub/seaside etc) and need to leave it for a while with the targa fitted for security (as well as avoiding a seat full of seagull poo of chav/pikey spittle) that I'm faced with the problem... slam, slam harder, slam again, Oh bugger it SLAAAAMMM! and people look round at the prat who can't close his door!
Plus all the door trim along the top edge of the door starts to work loose again. It is a real pain believe me.
Thanks for keep trying to come up with helpfull suggestions.
Cheers
Not wanting to state the obvious but could the door latches be playing up?
They're quite sensitive to proper lubrication and correct alignment. The S-point is the centre line of the striker loop (fixed to the door) and this needs to be vertically accurate as TVR doors are prone to dropping over time and horizontally positioned so the latch claw can move from the 1st safety position to fully closed without either rattling (too far out) or requiring a huge slamming effort (too far in).
Does this help?
df
They're quite sensitive to proper lubrication and correct alignment. The S-point is the centre line of the striker loop (fixed to the door) and this needs to be vertically accurate as TVR doors are prone to dropping over time and horizontally positioned so the latch claw can move from the 1st safety position to fully closed without either rattling (too far out) or requiring a huge slamming effort (too far in).
Does this help?
df
davidindevon said:
It's when I go out somewhere (shops/pub/seaside etc) and need to leave it for a while with the targa fitted for security (as well as avoiding a seat full of seagull poo of chav/pikey spittle) that I'm faced with the problem... slam, slam harder, slam again, Oh bugger it SLAAAAMMM! and people look round at the prat who can't close his door!
Something wrong there IMO, I have never had to slam a door like that on my car or any other Chim I have driven.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff