Discussion
Having recently rebuilt the engine after an oil pump bolt destroying the timing chain, the engine is now ready to be started. Only thing is that the fuel pump ran for a few seconds and instead of cleanly cutting out after the initial pressurisation stage it faded out. Now wont come on again after turning ignition on and off. I think I may have the fuel hoses on round the wrong way so the pump is pushing against the wrong side of the pressure reg. Would this damage the pump? What is the correct connection of these hoses. One line comes from behind the engine, the other comes directly up from under the car along the drivers foot well.
Many thanks
Many thanks
chrispitman said:
What do you mean the engine is noisy. Are you using hydralic tappets these take a short while to fill up with oil, i assume you have kept an eye on the oil pressure when you first fired it up and it primed ok.
Hydraulic trappets, but these were dismantled and drained before doing the preload using adjustable pushrods. Not sure if i should have refilled them, so may take some time to quieten down? Have only run the engine for 20 secs a few times. The oil pressure gauge does move but not very much. Have not yet noticed whether the oil pressure warning light is on on the dash. Need to get back out and run it again. Have no idea whether it has primed. Thought the serpentine was self priming? Engine fired up right away so at least i have the cam timing right and ign timing ballpark. Runs reasonably smoothly. Have not revved. Just uniform loud mechanically noisy. not knocking. Some of it is exhaust manifold noise which i know about. But running my ear quickly across the engine i think most of it is the tappets.Make sure the battery has good charge, and take the spark plugs out and remove the injector relay before cranking on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out, at least then you know that the system is priming. Once that's sorted, put everything back fire the engine up and let it run at 2500rpm or so (a ziptie folded back on itself underneath where the stop is on the throttle body on the plenum puts you in the right ball park). The first few minutes will be noisy as the tappets get pressure into them, don't worry about that. If you're running in a new cam then let it sit at 2500 for 20mins or so.
Regards
Iain
Regards
Iain
Thanks Iain. Have run the engine a few times for several seconds so the oil pump has had a chance! Just looked at the oil pressure gauge though not the dash lights. Will see tomorrow. Not a new cam. Just new timing gear and adjustable pushrods. Got away with no cylinderhead damage when the chain broke! Have done a bit of searching now on similar topics and i feel braver to let it run for a little bit with the noise as long as the oil warning light is not on.
Following your wishbone mods with interest. My other half has just done this on her Ford Ka rally car (see my profile)
Jon.
Following your wishbone mods with interest. My other half has just done this on her Ford Ka rally car (see my profile)
Jon.
I'm not sure about cranking it with the plugs out to bring the oil pressure up, if it's a new cam. You want to get the revs on it as soon as possible and grinding it over and over on the starter must be just the opposite of what you want. If that was mine I'd try to get it fired as soon as possible, make sure it gets oil pressure up straight away (if not, switch off and prime the pump before trying again) and then fast idle it until either the cam has been bedded in, or it's clear the followers aren't filling properly.
Peter relax its not a new cam 
When I put my rebuilt engine in for the first time i had right trouble getting oil pressure, I ended back feeding the feeder line to the oil cooler, however I guess the other way to do it would be to fill the system from the oil pressure switch midway up the timing cover.
Regards
Iain
When I put my rebuilt engine in for the first time i had right trouble getting oil pressure, I ended back feeding the feeder line to the oil cooler, however I guess the other way to do it would be to fill the system from the oil pressure switch midway up the timing cover.
Regards
Iain
Chassis 33 said:
Peter relax its not a new cam
When I put my rebuilt engine in for the first time i had right trouble getting oil pressure, I ended back feeding the feeder line to the oil cooler, however I guess the other way to do it would be to fill the system from the oil pressure switch midway up the timing cover.
Regards
Iain
Ah - I was thrown by the earlier comments about cams. Mine is pre-serpentine so harder to prime than yours. I have an oil cooler fitted so just to make sure the pressure comes up straight away I pump a liter of oil into the oil cooler circuit (by splitting a union and connecting a tee piece) that gets the pump wet and starts a bit of oil heading towards the bearings. But without that I'd still start it and give it 30 seconds of moderate revs to bring the oil pressure up. A serpentine should have even fewer problems priming, so if it won't come up within thirty seconds I'd have a go priming the pump and if it still won't come up then get the spanners back out. I assume there is a pressure gauge and low oil pressure warning light both saying no oil pressure. For the oil light in particular it's important to be sure you're looking at the right thing and not confusing it with e.g. a no charge warning light. If you don't already know for sure, check this out and don't just assume that the little oil can logo is actually connected to the oil pressure switch.When I put my rebuilt engine in for the first time i had right trouble getting oil pressure, I ended back feeding the feeder line to the oil cooler, however I guess the other way to do it would be to fill the system from the oil pressure switch midway up the timing cover.
Regards
Iain
Dont be limb-ist! I may have limbs but they are not connected to my brain unfortunately 
Need to keep my eye on the weather forecast to find another wet day to get back out there and work on the car. Would hate to be privileged and have a garage...or even a workshop...oh and a sexy assistant to hand me the wrench! 
Need to keep my eye on the weather forecast to find another wet day to get back out there and work on the car. Would hate to be privileged and have a garage...or even a workshop...oh and a sexy assistant to hand me the wrench! Chimjunkie said:
Dont be limb-ist! I may have limbs but they are not connected to my brain unfortunately Need to keep my eye on the weather forecast to find another wet day to get back out there and work on the car. Would hate to be privileged and have a garage...or even a workshop...oh and a sexy assistant to hand me the wrench!
you mean the missus aint there handing you the spanners..... hmmmmmm.. thats not on Need to keep my eye on the weather forecast to find another wet day to get back out there and work on the car. Would hate to be privileged and have a garage...or even a workshop...oh and a sexy assistant to hand me the wrench! You could have downloaded a free V8 engine rebuild manual from here..
http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/engine...
http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/engine...
Chimjunkie said:
chrispitman said:
What do you mean the engine is noisy. Are you using hydralic tappets these take a short while to fill up with oil, i assume you have kept an eye on the oil pressure when you first fired it up and it primed ok.
Hydraulic trappets, but these were dismantled and drained before doing the preload using adjustable pushrods. Not sure if i should have refilled themIf you have adjustable push rods - you do not need hydraulics.. or am I missing something.
For reference on my M404 cam - it has adjustable roller rockers (Kenne Bell) and non hydraulics lifters.
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