Discussion
I have now got the car up on stands so I can replace the exhaust link sections, and whilst it is up I need to pay some attention to a few areas of the chassis where the paint is peeling. Most areas are in good condition so I don't need to do the whole thing, so I want to try to match the colour - does anyone know where you can get Red chassis / rust proofing paint? I have looked at Hammerite, but they do not seem to do a version in Red. - any pointers appreciated...
I've used Bilt Hamber Electrox primer on my fuel tank, and its brilliant to put on - it covers really well in just one coat. You need to put something over the top to resist stonechips (eg Red Smoothrite!).
You just would not believe how heavy the tin is - it must nearly be a solid piece of zinc.
Some further info below, and I don't work for Bilt Hamber!
http://www.bilthamber.com/electrox.html
http://www.bilthamber.com/electrox-125-primers-tes...
You just would not believe how heavy the tin is - it must nearly be a solid piece of zinc.
Some further info below, and I don't work for Bilt Hamber!
http://www.bilthamber.com/electrox.html
http://www.bilthamber.com/electrox-125-primers-tes...
Is great to find out the Hammerite don't sow Red as one of their colours on their own website, but it is available in Halfrauds - looks like i'll be off down there later today (and returning the tin of the black suff to B&Q!!!)
Chris - The Bilt Hamber stuff looks interesting - do you have to buy it on-line through or is it available in any normal shops that you know of?
Thanks as always for the recommendations.
Craig
Chris - The Bilt Hamber stuff looks interesting - do you have to buy it on-line through or is it available in any normal shops that you know of?
Thanks as always for the recommendations.
Craig
If you do use hammerite don't apply waxoyl until at least one month after painting because it will go all wrinkly. This may compromise the effectiveness of the paint.
I have hammerited about half my chassis so far - some of the parts I've done were not waxoyled over summer (I try to only drive in the dry). Some of these parts already have some specs of rust showing through so for the rest I will probably be moving to POR15 as this has a reputation for being tough (ref this post) http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
POR15 can be obtained from frosts (www.frost.co.uk).
Ralph.
I have hammerited about half my chassis so far - some of the parts I've done were not waxoyled over summer (I try to only drive in the dry). Some of these parts already have some specs of rust showing through so for the rest I will probably be moving to POR15 as this has a reputation for being tough (ref this post) http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
POR15 can be obtained from frosts (www.frost.co.uk).
Ralph.
Chris,
Having now looked at how to use the Deox gel it looks as though it could be tricky to use it effectively unless doing a body off restoration. Their website says it needs thick coverage, then covering in plastic film, wash it off 2 days later (risk of then leaving lots of water in places you don't want it!!) etc. Is this accurate, or is it easier to apply (and remove) than they suggest?
As my chassis is not in bad condition (just needs protecting) I have now seen that Bilt Hamber also do a "rust converter" called Hydrate 80, which looks much easier to apply and no subsequent washing off required... have you (or do you know of anyone) who has used this stuff?
Cheers
Craig
Having now looked at how to use the Deox gel it looks as though it could be tricky to use it effectively unless doing a body off restoration. Their website says it needs thick coverage, then covering in plastic film, wash it off 2 days later (risk of then leaving lots of water in places you don't want it!!) etc. Is this accurate, or is it easier to apply (and remove) than they suggest?
As my chassis is not in bad condition (just needs protecting) I have now seen that Bilt Hamber also do a "rust converter" called Hydrate 80, which looks much easier to apply and no subsequent washing off required... have you (or do you know of anyone) who has used this stuff?
Cheers
Craig
Craig, I used the deox gel on my petrol tank, I wire brushed off most of the rust (my tank has no petrol vapours by now, its been empty over a year before you all tell me about making sparks) then I used the deox gel.
The cling film business is for heavily corroded areas, for light rust it removes it in an our or two there's no need for all the overnight clowning about.
I can imagine it would be an incredible faff though on the chassis with the body on.
I can definately recommend the electrox primer though.
The cling film business is for heavily corroded areas, for light rust it removes it in an our or two there's no need for all the overnight clowning about.
I can imagine it would be an incredible faff though on the chassis with the body on.
I can definately recommend the electrox primer though.
Chris
Reminds me of back in my late teens many moons ago. I went through the MkII cortina 1600E phase I had 4 or 5 of them over time and broke 1 up for spares. An empty petrol tank hid in the back of the shed for over a year and a friend and his younger 16 year old brother came around to sort some bits out. His younger brother for some god unknown reason used a lighted match to look into the empty tank. A woosh & fireball flew out and took all of his eyebrows and eye lashes off. He was a bit red and had a very high forehead line apart from that OK. My belly herts laughing just remembering it. Needless to say his mum gave us a hard time for not stopping him. Dont rely on thinking its been empty for more than a year so OK.

Reminds me of back in my late teens many moons ago. I went through the MkII cortina 1600E phase I had 4 or 5 of them over time and broke 1 up for spares. An empty petrol tank hid in the back of the shed for over a year and a friend and his younger 16 year old brother came around to sort some bits out. His younger brother for some god unknown reason used a lighted match to look into the empty tank. A woosh & fireball flew out and took all of his eyebrows and eye lashes off. He was a bit red and had a very high forehead line apart from that OK. My belly herts laughing just remembering it. Needless to say his mum gave us a hard time for not stopping him. Dont rely on thinking its been empty for more than a year so OK.

TonupS2 said:
Chris
Reminds me of back in my late teens many moons ago. I went through the MkII cortina 1600E phase I had 4 or 5 of them over time and broke 1 up for spares. An empty petrol tank hid in the back of the shed for over a year and a friend and his younger 16 year old brother came around to sort some bits out. His younger brother for some god unknown reason used a lighted match to look into the empty tank. A woosh & fireball flew out and took all of his eyebrows and eye lashes off. He was a bit red and had a very high forehead line apart from that OK. My belly herts laughing just remembering it. Needless to say his mum gave us a hard time for not stopping him. Dont rely on thinking its been empty for more than a year so OK.

Yes Dad Reminds me of back in my late teens many moons ago. I went through the MkII cortina 1600E phase I had 4 or 5 of them over time and broke 1 up for spares. An empty petrol tank hid in the back of the shed for over a year and a friend and his younger 16 year old brother came around to sort some bits out. His younger brother for some god unknown reason used a lighted match to look into the empty tank. A woosh & fireball flew out and took all of his eyebrows and eye lashes off. He was a bit red and had a very high forehead line apart from that OK. My belly herts laughing just remembering it. Needless to say his mum gave us a hard time for not stopping him. Dont rely on thinking its been empty for more than a year so OK.


I did seal up the inlet & outlet anyway just to be sure

This is what I love about this forum - you are never far away from a funny story 
Thanks to everyone for their advice, I have now ordered some Hydrate 80 from Bilt Hamber which I then plan to overpaint with Hammerite (missing out the "belt and braces" approach of zinc coating the whole chassis!! I will let you know how it goes....

Thanks to everyone for their advice, I have now ordered some Hydrate 80 from Bilt Hamber which I then plan to overpaint with Hammerite (missing out the "belt and braces" approach of zinc coating the whole chassis!! I will let you know how it goes....
Craigfa said:
This is what I love about this forum - you are never far away from a funny story 
Thanks to everyone for their advice, I have now ordered some Hydrate 80 from Bilt Hamber which I then plan to overpaint with Hammerite (missing out the "belt and braces" approach of zinc coating the whole chassis!! I will let you know how it goes....
Bilt Hamber are releasing a waxoyl competitor imminently - I've been hanging on as if it looks good I'm going to use it on my beautiful red outriggers - well I figured its got the best chance of sticking while they are nice and clean.
Thanks to everyone for their advice, I have now ordered some Hydrate 80 from Bilt Hamber which I then plan to overpaint with Hammerite (missing out the "belt and braces" approach of zinc coating the whole chassis!! I will let you know how it goes....
Looking at the Bilt Hamber stuff myself Hydrate 80 followed by the zinc primer, then red Hammerite. They do list an aerosol wax type product on their site.
Jobs on the list to be done when the gritters come out. Not even thinking about body lift till i get under and have a good poke around.
Have to addmit to not liking the metal work covered in wax but its got to help in the unseen places.
Jobs on the list to be done when the gritters come out. Not even thinking about body lift till i get under and have a good poke around.
Have to addmit to not liking the metal work covered in wax but its got to help in the unseen places.
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