Wood burner, would this idea work?
Discussion
We've got a good (free) source of wood, and a largish house that is heated by electricity.
We have an open fireplace and an efficient chimney but, or course, most of the heat produced goes straight up the chimney.
We are considering getting a wood burning stove and bringing out from the fireplace, so that the convection heat will stay in the room.
I've drawn a diagram of what I have in mind, would this work (naturally I would take precautions to avoid setting the house on fire

We have an open fireplace and an efficient chimney but, or course, most of the heat produced goes straight up the chimney.
We are considering getting a wood burning stove and bringing out from the fireplace, so that the convection heat will stay in the room.
I've drawn a diagram of what I have in mind, would this work (naturally I would take precautions to avoid setting the house on fire

kambites said:
This is how a huge number of wood burners are installed. You don't gain a massive amount in efficiency by moving it out into the room though because modern wood burners have very carefully managed air flows to channel heat to where it's needed.
wot e said. Makes little difference to the efficiency and it won't actually lose as much up the chimney as the exit from the stove is often sealed to the stack opening by means of an adapter.
tomash said:
Buy a Clearview stove!
Put it in the fireplace and it will warm a large area. You wont have to block the fireplace but you will have to get the chimney lined if it isn't already.
What do you mean exactly about the chimney being lined (couldn't find anything on that site about it)?Put it in the fireplace and it will warm a large area. You wont have to block the fireplace but you will have to get the chimney lined if it isn't already.
I guess that as I've used wood and coal stoves for 25 years+ I may have learnt a few lessons, I shall pass them on.
1. The stove in front of fireplace is unnessasary, it will cause more problems for flu extraction.
2. Keep the stove within the fireplace and keep the flu as straight as possible.
3. Two types of stove are available and the choice is yours :
Secondary burn stoves are by far the most effiecient and in terms of output and combustion.Must burn with closed doors and much more expensive to buy than open stoves.
'Open stoves' are far cheaper to purchase, you can burn them with doors open for nice effect.
4. Look carefully at the KW output of the stove and only buy a stove that is NOT larger output than you need for your room size.
5. Only burn good dry seasoned wood, if you burn 'wet' wood you will end up with problems.
Any specific questions I will be happy to answer. There are loads more factors to be considered.
1. The stove in front of fireplace is unnessasary, it will cause more problems for flu extraction.
2. Keep the stove within the fireplace and keep the flu as straight as possible.
3. Two types of stove are available and the choice is yours :
Secondary burn stoves are by far the most effiecient and in terms of output and combustion.Must burn with closed doors and much more expensive to buy than open stoves.
'Open stoves' are far cheaper to purchase, you can burn them with doors open for nice effect.
4. Look carefully at the KW output of the stove and only buy a stove that is NOT larger output than you need for your room size.
5. Only burn good dry seasoned wood, if you burn 'wet' wood you will end up with problems.
Any specific questions I will be happy to answer. There are loads more factors to be considered.
singlecoil said:
tomash said:
Buy a Clearview stove!
Put it in the fireplace and it will warm a large area. You wont have to block the fireplace but you will have to get the chimney lined if it isn't already.
What do you mean exactly about the chimney being lined (couldn't find anything on that site about it)?Put it in the fireplace and it will warm a large area. You wont have to block the fireplace but you will have to get the chimney lined if it isn't already.

Like this?
Yep and then they fill the space outside the liner with stuff that looks like vermiculite.
My house is 1930s and the chimney is old so its the easiest way to stop the potential of a chimney fire.
My Clearview warms the whole of the ground floor.
Just to clarify on the Stove front. I have one of these Its a highly efficient stove when its properly lit it actually burns most of its own waste gasses and has internal convection past the window so that the window stays clean. Occasionally it may get a bit sooty when starting the fire but its self cleaning. Also its big enough to cook a stew on the top in the winter when you run it all day.
My house is 1930s and the chimney is old so its the easiest way to stop the potential of a chimney fire.
My Clearview warms the whole of the ground floor.
Just to clarify on the Stove front. I have one of these Its a highly efficient stove when its properly lit it actually burns most of its own waste gasses and has internal convection past the window so that the window stays clean. Occasionally it may get a bit sooty when starting the fire but its self cleaning. Also its big enough to cook a stew on the top in the winter when you run it all day.
Edited by tomash on Thursday 23 October 14:55
FWIW I'm looking at getting something like this: http://www.firesonline.co.uk/acatalog/Aarrow-Strat... which actually sits in (and fills) a standard modern fireplace.
I wasn't aware that you couldn't run secondary burn stoves with the door open though. What's the reason for this?
I wasn't aware that you couldn't run secondary burn stoves with the door open though. What's the reason for this?
Edited by kambites on Thursday 23 October 14:50
tomash said:
Yep and then they fill the space outside the liner with stuff that looks like vermiculite.
My house is 1930s and the chimney is old so its the easiest way to stop the potential of a chimney fire.
My Clearview warms the whole of the ground floor.
You can, as suggested use vermiculite, but I would'nt. Instead have the flue liner wrapped in an insulation blanket. The problem with vermiculite is that when the time comes to repair the liner or baffle plate you will end up with half a room full of vermiculite balls, and they will be filthy.My house is 1930s and the chimney is old so its the easiest way to stop the potential of a chimney fire.
My Clearview warms the whole of the ground floor.
Edited by tomash on Thursday 23 October 14:45
esselte said:
singlecoil said:
tomash said:
Buy a Clearview stove!
Put it in the fireplace and it will warm a large area. You wont have to block the fireplace but you will have to get the chimney lined if it isn't already.
What do you mean exactly about the chimney being lined (couldn't find anything on that site about it)?Put it in the fireplace and it will warm a large area. You wont have to block the fireplace but you will have to get the chimney lined if it isn't already.

Like this?
singlecoil said:
My experience with that stuff is that it rots faster than a 1958 Morris Minor. Isn't there a better option? Is the idea to restrict the bore of the chimney?
That's why you used decent quality stainless steel stuff, cost a bit more but once you've fitted it you can pretty much forget about it.kambites said:
singlecoil said:
My experience with that stuff is that it rots faster than a 1958 Morris Minor. Isn't there a better option? Is the idea to restrict the bore of the chimney?
I believe the idea is to stop you dying from carbon monoxide poisoning. singlecoil said:
esselte said:
singlecoil said:
tomash said:
Buy a Clearview stove!
Put it in the fireplace and it will warm a large area. You wont have to block the fireplace but you will have to get the chimney lined if it isn't already.
What do you mean exactly about the chimney being lined (couldn't find anything on that site about it)?Put it in the fireplace and it will warm a large area. You wont have to block the fireplace but you will have to get the chimney lined if it isn't already.

Like this?
Mine has been going fine for 10 years now.
singlecoil said:
kambites said:
singlecoil said:
My experience with that stuff is that it rots faster than a 1958 Morris Minor. Isn't there a better option? Is the idea to restrict the bore of the chimney?
I believe the idea is to stop you dying from carbon monoxide poisoning. kambites said:
singlecoil said:
kambites said:
singlecoil said:
My experience with that stuff is that it rots faster than a 1958 Morris Minor. Isn't there a better option? Is the idea to restrict the bore of the chimney?
I believe the idea is to stop you dying from carbon monoxide poisoning. Gassing Station | The Pie & Piston Archive | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff




