Puma
Author
Discussion

hardcorehobbit

Original Poster:

1,103 posts

218 months

Saturday 25th October 2008
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Lo,

I'm doing a bit of shopping about, as you do. I was reading the knowledge in EVO, and I noticed how good the Puma is. I know there are plenty about, and I've found a few for somewhere in the region of 1k-1.5k, and I'm seriously interested.

Whats the build quality like? Or how much do they cost year by year to keep on the road?

Is a FSH necessary? Or can I get by with just some recent reciepts?


And finally... while I've no doubt its a good drivers car, will anyone take it seriously?

spectre17

210 posts

229 months

Sunday 26th October 2008
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Creepy. I have a puma - and Im a Jonathan B too!

I love mine bits. You can pick up some really good deals at the moment.

They can do all sorts - 400 miles to a tank if you want it to.
Two large suitcases in the boot.
Consumes country roads.It might not have much power or straight line speed. But you can carry the speed through the bends with ease. Im sure in scotland you will get the opportunity to enjoy the Puma more than I get to.

In terms of running costs, it shouldnt be too bad. Would try to get some service history, but thats always the way. Make sure the Cambelt and Water pump has been done - and then Head off to www.pumapeople.com - read the buyers guide!

FWDRacer

3,565 posts

247 months

Monday 27th October 2008
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Another vote in favour here... If people have a problem with the image, I'd say its their issue... not yours.

Pumas are European built Fords out of Niehl (Cologne) plant and quality is good. I've had mine 6 years andf it has been a joy own, the reason I'm still tearing round in it because as a proposition I can't find anything else that gives the smiles per mile, fuel econmoy when required (400 to a tank is mega optimistic tho') and also is reasonably practical. As a small coupe it hasn't been topped. As has been mentioned, Cambelt is required at 5yrs or 100K and often a Clutch early on in the cars life if the car has been enjoyed.

On the whole - think Fiesta based running costs. Go and try one out, especially an unmodified example and see what all the Evo fuss was about. Id fit has been Modded steer well clear.

trickywoo

13,627 posts

253 months

Monday 27th October 2008
quotequote all
Couple of things worth looking out for.

Heater valve often fails - DIY fix £50ish for the part

Front suspension arm rear bushes don't last (poor design) £40 for a pattern arm or £90ish from a stealer. Not really a diy fit unless you are handy with a spanner.

Synchro on 2nd can be very weak

Water leaks are fairly common through a rubber bung on the horizontal, passenger side - not easy to fix

Fuel filter is located on the sill just ahead of the rear passenger wheel and therefore tends to rust if its not changed when it should be

I find the seats very uncomfortable anything over 45mins

They tend to rust around the rear wheel arches

If its raining you can't open the boot more than 6" or all the water on boot lid will end up inside

cj_eds

1,567 posts

244 months

Monday 27th October 2008
quotequote all
trickywoo said:
If its raining you can't open the boot more than 6" or all the water on boot lid will end up inside
Just lift it slowly and that doesn't happen. But you will forgot most the time, lift up the lid and watch the water pour in.

Value for money I think they're great, am delighted with the one we bought. Go and drive one first and then see what you think.

hardcorehobbit

Original Poster:

1,103 posts

218 months

Monday 27th October 2008
quotequote all
Thanks everyone. As mentioned, I think I'll go try one, then look for one with a service history, cambelt and water pump.

I look forward to having a laugh in it.

RDE

5,032 posts

237 months

Friday 31st October 2008
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Spend as much as you can to get a low mileage one I would say. Mine is pushing 92k, and it is starting to feel a bit ropey. An arch needs replacing, an ABS sensor needs replacing, the suspension feels a bit messy (possibly just bushes) and it has developed quite a few buzzes and rattles. I still love the way the thing drives though. I'm just looking forward to my fortnight off so I can sort out the bad bits.

deevlash

10,442 posts

260 months

Friday 31st October 2008
quotequote all
even the newest ones are now 7 years old (the 52 plates are just old o1 stock). The brake lines are prone to rotting as well as what been said previously. Its a ford though so parts are plentiful and cheapish. Mines been great and it lift off oversteers rather nicely. Mines a 1.6 which isnt all that much slower than the 1.7 (which can have nikasil cylinder lining problems) but my record is 330 miles from a tank and that was on a long boring motorway commute, 250 is more usual. Then again its only £35 for a tank full just now.

Oh and the headlights are awful.

RDE

5,032 posts

237 months

Friday 31st October 2008
quotequote all
My record is 52mpg, achieved on an astonishingly dull 55-60 mph drive from Bournemouth to Nottinghamshire at night. That would make it about 450 miles to a tank by my maths. Usually i'll see 250 if i'm just doing short journeys, and 300 mixed use.

Johnnytheboy

24,499 posts

209 months

Saturday 1st November 2008
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I had one which was great to drive. It ate an engine though. Cylinder liners wore out. Check the one you buy doesn't drink much oil.

deevlash

10,442 posts

260 months

Saturday 1st November 2008
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Johnnytheboy said:
I had one which was great to drive. It ate an engine though. Cylinder liners wore out. Check the one you buy doesn't drink much oil.
thats the nikasil problem

hardcorehobbit

Original Poster:

1,103 posts

218 months

Sunday 2nd November 2008
quotequote all
If it is drinking oil, and therefore has a worn engine, how much would it cost to put right? Price of a rebuild and some new liners not being made anymore?

Johnnytheboy

24,499 posts

209 months

Sunday 2nd November 2008
quotequote all
Because of the rather specialised nature of the 1.7 engine, rebuilds/liner repairs are well nigh impossible.

However, I emphasise that I loved the car - actually sold it to my dad and still drive it from time to time. Slower, but much more accessible than my Clio Trophy.

Though the standard kit brakes are pretty dire (rear drums, lol), so I had a Brum firm called Pumabuild do a rear disc conversion on mine.

trickywoo

13,627 posts

253 months

Monday 3rd November 2008
quotequote all
Johnnytheboy said:
Though the standard kit brakes are pretty dire
yes

All round probably the worst brakes I've had the misfortune to use. They lack power but the main problem I think is that the pedal effort is so inconsistent. Top of the travel gives lots of bite for minimal effort, so much so that its very difficult to modulate the brakes soothly, but as soon as you need more stopping power (and I'm not talking last of the late brakers, just normal swift stopping) you start having to put a lot more effort in for not much effect - scary.

brum

5,892 posts

229 months

Monday 3rd November 2008
quotequote all
I inherited one of these as an intermim set of wheels - i intended to keep it for 2-3 weeks. I have had it for 7 months now and I have no intention of getting rid of it - it's a cracking drivers car. Just to add in my two penneth worth:

The arches rust due to the piss poor design than see's rainwater run down inside the boot housing and end up in the wheel arches.
The brakes aren't its strongest suit having drums on the back - these can be changed for Discs but I undertand it's a pain in the arse with the ABS sensors.
The lights are pathetic - on a dark unlit B road they are damn near useless.
I have had some issues with interior trim - the A pillar trim has fallen off, the glovebox is kind of broken and the parcel shelf keeps falling out.
Pirelli P6000's are the OE tyre. These are absolutely useless in the wet, they have all the grip of soap on a frozen pond. This can be entertaining, or this can be worrying depending on your outlook.

The good points
It handles brilliantly - i've never owned a car which tightened it's line so keenly with a lift of the throttle - the back end adopts attitude brilliantly. It will lift off oversteer if you provoke it enough.
The steering is well weighted and gives great feedback
The gearchange is about as sweet as any car i have driven - very mechanical - lovely.
Its quite quick for a 'girls car'.
Driven well on a tricky B road it will easily stay with much more expensive machinery.

Whilst they come equiped with ABS and TC neither work on my example - i quite like this as for years I have been in stuff laden with electronic gizmo's, i like having my right foot dictate how the car behaves.
On a tight dry bend the car will easliy spin up the inside all through second - when its wet, it will do this through third too. I don't know how much slip the car allows when the TC is working though.

The back of the car is fairly lively for small FWD car - i had the car try to swap ends on a very greasy off camber roundabout recently - being a very short wheel base you have to have your wits about you to catch it. biggrin

Mine is a W plate - i got it on 44,000 miles. Its now done 50,000 miles and has only cost one tyre plus oil. Mainly becuase i have neglected to fix the trim, the ABS or the TC biggrin

I absolutely love mine - i keep meaning to sell it and buy a 3 series but i can't bring myself to do it. It's image is relatively poor - being seen as somewhat of a girls car, it is huge fun taking the doubters for a B road blast in one - they eat their words within the first five minutes.

Mine makes me laugh out loud on a daily basis. Highly recommended driving



Edited by brum on Monday 3rd November 15:29

deevlash

10,442 posts

260 months

Monday 3rd November 2008
quotequote all
the TC only works up to 15mph, which is pointless, even then it doesnt do much anyway.

trickywoo

13,627 posts

253 months

Monday 3rd November 2008
quotequote all
brum said:
On a tight dry bend the car will easliy spin up the inside all through second - when its wet, it will do this through third too. I don't know how much slip the car allows when the TC is working though.
The TC system is a joke. It only 'works' on first gear below 12mph IIRC (factory spec). It works by grabbing the brakes which it does very slowly. It also has a torque limiter on 1st which is equally daft, making swift getaways harder than they should be.

A 205 will tighten its line a lot more on the throttle than a Puma - Puma still not bad though and it grips hard at the front.


FWDRacer

3,565 posts

247 months

Monday 3rd November 2008
quotequote all
Having driven both the Puma is benign in comparison to a 205Gti. There is a reason that most 205GTi's in breakers yards are stoved in at the back.

The TC is a joke and with the torque clamp in first means Pumas aren't a riot off the lights. Not what they are about tho'... However you're ABS should be working or you at looking at a MOT fail without it eek. Try an emergency stop (almost everday scenario with the lacklustre brakes hehe) the modulator should pulse through the pedal.

ST150 Fiesta Callipers with 280mm discs are a straight swap on the front and sort out the brakes - all fit under standard 15" wheels - the breakers search continues. I'll get shot to pieces but the moment you put big wheels on a Puma you screw it right up.

Edited by FWDRacer on Monday 3rd November 16:24

Johnnytheboy

24,499 posts

209 months

Monday 3rd November 2008
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Lowering mine by about an inch (Eibach springs)improved it no end as well. Got rid of that 'startled cat' look that they have.


Road Pest

3,123 posts

221 months

Saturday 8th November 2008
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Going to look at one of these tomorrow. Found the posts really useful, saved me posting a new thread. Am pleased about the feedback saying it's a drivers car as I've missed that since I was forced to sell the Exige. I am sure not expecting it to be like that though!