Setup tips and general questions - Ohlins
Discussion
Right, I've picked myself a whopping bargain in the form of a 1994 Mazda Roadster, which has come with lots of goodie on. I knew when I bought it that it wasnt a standard setup, and It turns out I have some form of Ohlins suspension. I'm still trying to ID what they actually are (not had the wheels off yet) but they are a monotube type damper with a single damping adjustment, and I dont think they have adjustable spring collars (I.e what people call "coilovers" (Although nearly all cars have coilovers!)).
Now, I know a fair bit about the theory of suspension from my mountain biking. Those of you not familiar with modern high end MTB's might scoff - but this involves things such as proper oil dampers, Coil springs, air springs, air preload, nitrogen charges, platform damping, custom shim stacks, etc etc so its good stuff.
Anyway, I know Ohlins are pretty highly regarded, so I will most likely be keeping these. As soon as I know what actual model they are, and how they are assembled, then I need to look at getting them rebuilt. They will need new oil, of course, but does anyone know if there likely to have a gas/nitrogen charge?
As for setup - The previous owner has made the common mistake of confusing sportiness with stiffness, so they are currently set to 'rock fecking hard'. I also need a full geometry setup, as I bet its never been done and I know the cars not 'right'.
I do know, however, that if everything IS working properly, then I should be able to have a great handling motor. I want plenty of ride height, and it to be supple and active for B-roads, not rock hard for race-tracks.
I am interested about the adjustment on my dampers, I've not fiddled with it yet. My previous experience tells me that 'stiffness' is set by your srping medium, not your damping. So why do all these car suspension manufacturers refer to adjustable stiffness? 'Laymans' terms?
Is this adjustment rebound, bump, or both? Is the range of adjustment meant for use with the same spring rate?
I have so many questions... This stuff fascinates me, I've studied it at Uni, played with it on my bikes, and now the chance to see the effects on my car. Any input welcomed.
Now, I know a fair bit about the theory of suspension from my mountain biking. Those of you not familiar with modern high end MTB's might scoff - but this involves things such as proper oil dampers, Coil springs, air springs, air preload, nitrogen charges, platform damping, custom shim stacks, etc etc so its good stuff.
Anyway, I know Ohlins are pretty highly regarded, so I will most likely be keeping these. As soon as I know what actual model they are, and how they are assembled, then I need to look at getting them rebuilt. They will need new oil, of course, but does anyone know if there likely to have a gas/nitrogen charge?
As for setup - The previous owner has made the common mistake of confusing sportiness with stiffness, so they are currently set to 'rock fecking hard'. I also need a full geometry setup, as I bet its never been done and I know the cars not 'right'.
I do know, however, that if everything IS working properly, then I should be able to have a great handling motor. I want plenty of ride height, and it to be supple and active for B-roads, not rock hard for race-tracks.
I am interested about the adjustment on my dampers, I've not fiddled with it yet. My previous experience tells me that 'stiffness' is set by your srping medium, not your damping. So why do all these car suspension manufacturers refer to adjustable stiffness? 'Laymans' terms?
Is this adjustment rebound, bump, or both? Is the range of adjustment meant for use with the same spring rate?
I have so many questions... This stuff fascinates me, I've studied it at Uni, played with it on my bikes, and now the chance to see the effects on my car. Any input welcomed.
After a bit of digging around on the ohlins site I think this is what I have...
-S46DR1W
-Monotube / Singletube
-46mm Piston
-Gas pressurized type of shock absorber with internal reservoir in the main body. Gas and oil divided in the mail body by a separating piston
-Damping is set with the knob, which have a normal right hand thread. By turning it clockwise the damping action is increased, and by turning it counter clockwise it is reduced. The knob have definite positions with noticeable "clicks", making it easy to count to the right setting.
So pretty standard stuff then. I wonder - will it be a nitrogen charge in the gas chamber? Thats what the bike shocks use.
But - this damping adjust. I dont understand how the dump rebound damping and compression in under the same hat? What ACTUALLY gets adjusted? As surely adjusting both at the same time by equal amounts would creat some very weird effects? I think I'm putting far too much thought into this than I'm supposed to!
-S46DR1W
-Monotube / Singletube
-46mm Piston
-Gas pressurized type of shock absorber with internal reservoir in the main body. Gas and oil divided in the mail body by a separating piston
-Damping is set with the knob, which have a normal right hand thread. By turning it clockwise the damping action is increased, and by turning it counter clockwise it is reduced. The knob have definite positions with noticeable "clicks", making it easy to count to the right setting.
So pretty standard stuff then. I wonder - will it be a nitrogen charge in the gas chamber? Thats what the bike shocks use.
But - this damping adjust. I dont understand how the dump rebound damping and compression in under the same hat? What ACTUALLY gets adjusted? As surely adjusting both at the same time by equal amounts would creat some very weird effects? I think I'm putting far too much thought into this than I'm supposed to!
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