vented disc and 4 pot

[brittanytvr]

All my hydraulics are in some boxes, need rebuilt or buy new calipers disc servo etc
I am interested in buying a bolt on upgrade, I know that some toyota 4x4 could fit with some modified cressida vented disc but not easy to find here!
I search a good price and quality conversion, I have seen some complete wilwood kit at TRshop, moss or rimmer, if you have other idéas.
Also do you know if the kit for example at TRshop accept also 14" wheels?
http://www.trshop.co.uk/special.html
some difference between dynalite or midilite calipers?
on burton website, seen some M16 wilwood calipers ( mine are 16pb 73 vixen) but for the disc ??
thanks

Edited by brittanytvr on Sunday 2nd November 08:43

[daza]

Moss used to do a vented TR6 conversion. It bolts straight on. You also get spacers for the calipers.

Im sure someone will be along soon who will say you dont even need this.

Spend your money on something else,,,,

Darren

Edited by daza on Sunday 2nd November 20:58

[brittanytvr]

Hello Darren,
you are perhaps true, but all my brake parts are old and need rebuit or exchange, caliper sized
( impossible to move the pistons even with air!) another solution is to buy new 16pb calipers, disc and some green stuff pads . My intention with this vixen is to do track days with some club, hillclimb and also little road use.

[tegwin]

Send your callipers to Big Red in Worcester.... Get some decent pads and some vented disks +calliper spacer...send that to big red as well!.....

Jobs a goodun....

[V8TVR1978]

Brittany: We have the Toyota setup with Wilwood calipers on our 79 V8 Taimar and I am happy but not impressed. Got AP racing calipers from Racetorations in the UK with the same Toyota rotors on my 78 V8 Taimar and stops on a dime with no brake FADE ever, but you need to with that car as it has a 302 that we stroked to 347 last winter. Lots of HP. Our supercharged 73 2500M that my daughter uses again has the Toyota setup with the Wilwood calipers/green pads and it is really good. I would reccommend the Toyota rotors even if you have to get from this side of the pond and check out AP stuff. If you need more info from us don't hesitate to e-mail.
[e-mail]
or
[e-mail]

Put TVR in subject so I won't delete e-mail by accident.
Try apracing.com

Wayne/Sherry Leppard
Calgary, Alberta.Canada.

Edited by V8TVR1978 on Monday 3rd November 03:52

[daza]

Duncan,, sounds good...

Similar arrangement to what Moss were running. They did my calipers on exchange as part of the package... spacers included. How much does the kit work out at these days?

Ulliac
Buy the way,, if you have seized calipers,, use a G clamp after soaking them... I dont think you'll get far with compressed air on an old cruddy pair of calipers.

Edited by daza on Monday 3rd November 13:18

Edited by daza on Monday 3rd November 13:20

[SuPaSpArK]

I've just completed a track day (3x20min sessions) on standard recon front calipers, slotted and groved discs with ferodo 2500 pads and suffered no brake fade what so ever! rear discs worked a treat too!

[brittanytvr]

Hello,
thanks all for the response.
different option at the moment!
1) - buy new standard calipers (the old one are not rebuildable by me, tried U clamp, air compressor etc ) not economic for me to return them to canley classics or big red from France, fitted new discs vented with spacers, good pads .
2) - buy a big brake kit with wilwood dynalite calipers and good pads, but not sure than my 14" wheels fit with the balance wheels and 283 mm disc !
3) - buy a set of recent wilwood midilite M16 ready to bolt with vented disc in original size and good pads
4) - try to find some ap racing or alcon, the price is high but better than the wilwood, difficult to find some références!
The budget is around 500£ I think for 1), 650£ for 2) and 3), for the other ap or alcon I don't know, my budget for front brake is around 650£
questions:
where can I found good vented disc in original size ( crossdrilled?), ready to bolt ( trshop sold them as a kit with pads and spacer but green stuf?, Mintex better? ), cressida discs need some work ?
Where found ap racing for M16 installation or alcon at a correct price with a link if you have?
Chris

[tegwin]

Big red rebild- £120
Postage to/from france...£60 return?
Drilled standard size disks from rimmer bros- £140 plus postage
Uprated pads- £40...

doable for £450....?

[brittanytvr]

I have to made a choice, not easy!
seen also with the help of a caterham owner that Hi Spec made some conversion kits with different disc for tr6!
Good quality?

[heightswitch]

brittanytvr said:

I have to made a choice, not easy!
seen also with the help of a caterham owner that Hi Spec made some conversion kits with different disc for tr6!
Good quality?

This company in my book are the best quality and best value around for re-conditioning your calipers. last ones I had done were approx £75 ea I think.

Classicar Automotive
Unit A
Alderley Road
Chelford
Macclesfield
Cheshire
SK11 9AP

Tel: [phone]


They are very knowledgable

Are you really going to use your car heavily enough to warrant the cost of a 4 pot upgrade. The only benefit on a road car is pub bragging rights. re-conditioned standard and better front pads should be more than enough.

Also can someone tell me the point of a drilled solid disc? apart from Introducing a weak point for hairline cracks to develop

N.

Edited by heightswitch on Tuesday 4th November 22:38

[status]

heightswitch said:

Also can someone tell me the point of a drilled solid disc? apart from Introducing a weak point for hairline cracks to develop

N.

I could never see the point of drilled discs - on the same basis that my XR2 vented discs used to distort and crack after brutal repeated braking, due I thought to excessive heating and cooling. Mr Google's finest search engine gave me this which alleges improved performance... and I did read a Brembo FAQ that mentioned reduced weight, but I think to lose enough weight to be significant would mean the disc would probably crumble at the first corner . The link seems to support what I seem to recall someone saying back when I did a bit of hillclimbing, that grooved undrilled discs were good but I also remember them saying pad wear could be slightly faster than with plain discs.

cheers
Nick

[Slow M]

heightswitch said:

...can someone tell me the point of a drilled solid disc? apart from Introducing a weak point for hairline cracks to develop

heightswitch,
yes, I think so. In braking, the friction of pad against rotor produces gas. Without the holes, the gas has nowhere to escape to. The holes allow the pedal's action to be more effective. They also clear dust and, yes, through the chafing action of dilled holes or slots, pad wear is increased. In addition, if the holes have a chamfer, the likelihood uf developing cracks is greatly reduced. Slots should be machined with a ball end mill.
B.

status said:

I could never see the point of drilled discs - on the same basis that my XR2 vented discs used to distort and crack after brutal repeated braking, due I thought to excessive heating and cooling...

status,
I don't know what you used your car for. I can see hillclimbs, for instance, as being particularly brutal on braking sytems (esp. disks) because there is no space for proper cool down after numerous heavy applications. Given the opportunity, you may want to read chapter 11 of Carroll Smith's Engineer to Win. It gives the basics and it's not boring reading.
B

[heightswitch]

Slow M said:

heightswitch said:

...can someone tell me the point of a drilled solid disc? apart from Introducing a weak point for hairline cracks to develop

heightswitch,
yes, I think so. In braking, the friction of pad against rotor produces gas. Without the holes, the gas has nowhere to escape to. The holes allow the pedal's action to be more effective. They also clear dust and, yes, through the chafing action of dilled holes or slots, pad wear is increased. In addition, if the holes have a chamfer, the likelihood uf developing cracks is greatly reduced. Slots should be machined with a ball end mill.
B.


On a vented disc bernard, Perhaps. But not a Solid one?? Grooved perhaps but a solid disc to have drillings into it in my opinion is more show than go. The concept of gas produced by the friction assumes a path to the drilling in the first place? if gas can migrate to a drilling then it can as easily migrate to the margins of the pad.


Discs I have seen warp or fail are always drilled

N.

[brittanytvr]

I have finally installed toyota génuine cressida vented disc and 4 runner calipers(4x43mm pistons) with mintex 1155 pads, the copper pipe need some work to be done also for the caliper and master cylinder installation!!and yes my hub need some new paint !!

[VixeM]

Hi Chris,
looks good!
Can you clarify a few things to help anyone wanting to copy this "toyota" brake upgrade.

Are you using Toyota cressida calipers and discs? What specific model/year?

What modifications are required to use these parts, to either the TVR/Triumph or Toyota components? Any photos of the modifications?

Thanks
Stephen

[brittanytvr]

Hello Stephen,
I have found some web infos for this, like http://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_brake_install.htm
the problem is that the cressida discs are from a US specification 86-88, never sold in Europe, with the disc références on this page I have found now a génuine toyota parts number and I have bought them for a Toyota dealer in France!!
The inner disc diameter need to be machined to bolt on the hub.
The calipers are from 4x4 toyota with vented discs ( S12+8 ) which have 4 pistons ( 43 and 34 mm) or like mine 4x43mm( 4runner from year?? I have the info at my work).
Perhaps a problem with the standard TVR wheels, need some spacers??I haven't this sort of alloys to try, but with tr6 steel wheels I need one around 2-3 mm!!
I Have to made also some new copper pipe, I wait the tool and copper! and take some photos for the discs, caliper installation and all that.
I think the caliper weight are similar( tr6 and toyota) perhaps the disc a little more but not sure
Chris

[VixeM]

Hi Chris,
thanks for that.
The caliper numbers would be much appreciated when you get the chance.

Regarding wheel spacers I couldn't help noticing the one in the photo. Please throw it away, this type that use wheel stud extensinons are best described as dangerous! Sorry if this sounds harsh.

Thanks
Stephen