Recommissioning a chim
Discussion
Right I have 3 days to get my chim going. It started OK when I bought it and it's been laid up off and on for a couple of years.
Jobs I have done:
Brake and clutch master cyls, bled.
Dried out interior.
Checked steering UJs
Changed oil and filter
Paint and waxoil chassis
Jobs I think I need to do:
Replace rubber fuel pipes (drain old fuel and put fresh gallon or two in)
Check leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm
Adjust handbrake
reconnect reversing light wires that i think i see hanging down by the rear of the gearbox (LT77 type)
Can anyone suggest any more good jobs to do while the car is up on stands?
Cheers
Schmo
Jobs I have done:
Brake and clutch master cyls, bled.
Dried out interior.
Checked steering UJs
Changed oil and filter
Paint and waxoil chassis
Jobs I think I need to do:
Replace rubber fuel pipes (drain old fuel and put fresh gallon or two in)
Check leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm
Adjust handbrake
reconnect reversing light wires that i think i see hanging down by the rear of the gearbox (LT77 type)
Can anyone suggest any more good jobs to do while the car is up on stands?
Cheers
Schmo
both the above noted. V8 i'm a bit dubious about putting oil down bores- wouldn't that harm the cat?
What do people think about about the coolant - does it 'go off' of if it looks a good colour it'll be OK?
I can add sorting the central locking solenoids to the list, they seem to be kippered too and a new battery is going in...
What do people think about about the coolant - does it 'go off' of if it looks a good colour it'll be OK?
I can add sorting the central locking solenoids to the list, they seem to be kippered too and a new battery is going in...
I would have a look at the air filter as well. You never know what state that might be in if its been sitting there for a while without any air actually going through it. Possibly started to rot ?
It's probably worth changing the coolant later but if your aim is just to get it to start up and be able to drive it "round the block" it should be OK as is.
Also give the tyres a good once over for any signs of deterioration or cracking.
If you have PAS the PAS fluid may need changing as that is hydraulic and degrades over time.
It's probably worth changing the coolant later but if your aim is just to get it to start up and be able to drive it "round the block" it should be OK as is.
Also give the tyres a good once over for any signs of deterioration or cracking.
If you have PAS the PAS fluid may need changing as that is hydraulic and degrades over time.
schmokin1 said:
both the above noted. V8 i'm a bit dubious about putting oil down bores- wouldn't that harm the cat?
What do people think about about the coolant - does it 'go off' of if it looks a good colour it'll be OK?
I can add sorting the central locking solenoids to the list, they seem to be kippered too and a new battery is going in...
instead of oil STP or some type of upper cylinder lubricant may be better, (but be ready for the clouds of smoke when you start it up )What do people think about about the coolant - does it 'go off' of if it looks a good colour it'll be OK?
I can add sorting the central locking solenoids to the list, they seem to be kippered too and a new battery is going in...

V8 is bang on the money re. a drop of oil in the bores b4 you turn the engine over. I'd highly recommend a light "misting" WD40 thru' each plug hole then turn the engine over "by hand", enlist the help of the Mrs. so you can push the car in gear to turn the engine over a few time b4 cranking it with the starter. A bit of smoke is preferable to scored bores or broken rings!!! Also i'd have a good look at "anything" rubber based, drive belts, bushes, etc.
all noted guys. Day one has been a good look round and a battle in vain to find the reverse light switch, as I'm convinced the 2 wires hanging down with bullet connectors on the end, by the rear of the gearbox, are reverse light switch leads. Anyone know where he switch is on an LT77 'boxed car?
Did find that my offside upper chassis tube near the rear of the manifold is rusty due to the heat killing the plastic coating (I reckon). Anyone any thouhts on preventative works for this or will POR15 handle the heat?
Didn't find any other nasties and worked out how to do the fuel pipes so game on tomorrow...
cheers
schmo
Did find that my offside upper chassis tube near the rear of the manifold is rusty due to the heat killing the plastic coating (I reckon). Anyone any thouhts on preventative works for this or will POR15 handle the heat?
Didn't find any other nasties and worked out how to do the fuel pipes so game on tomorrow...
cheers
schmo
Jonny_b said:
I had to have the old injectors cleaned on mine. Went for new ones in the end. Put some injector cleaner through it. I was amazed at the cr*p that can out of the tank when I drained it - knackered my pump too. A new fuel filter is a good idea.
right on and these are ally tanks too so no rust! Luckily enough my filter is new (not even dirty).AL450 - POR me too! So we'll see if it's man enough...
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