Factory Geo set-up!
Discussion
Well what a surprise 
My new car came out of the factory with duff geo!
Had my Exige S2 geometry checked at Plans today, front camber nearside 1 degree front offside 0 degrees.
Had the rest of the geo tweeked, and can't say I noticed much difference... Until I went around one of my favourite fast bends.
Before the car always felt "twichy", not so today a good 5-10 MPH faster and it felt planted.
So as usual it's the simple things that make a difference.
thanks to Plans motor sport
My new car came out of the factory with duff geo!Had my Exige S2 geometry checked at Plans today, front camber nearside 1 degree front offside 0 degrees.
Had the rest of the geo tweeked, and can't say I noticed much difference... Until I went around one of my favourite fast bends.
Before the car always felt "twichy", not so today a good 5-10 MPH faster and it felt planted.
So as usual it's the simple things that make a difference.
thanks to Plans motor sport
Bit of a newby question here. Is checking the 'geo' stuff like the correct fit/placement of parts like the suspension?
It is something that people mention every now and then and seems like a worth while (essential) thing to have right.
Is it an expensive job that requires the removal of clams? How much would getting this checked typically cost?
Cheers
It is something that people mention every now and then and seems like a worth while (essential) thing to have right.
Is it an expensive job that requires the removal of clams? How much would getting this checked typically cost?
Cheers
Stephanie Plum said:
S Works said:
Those boys know how to do a good geo
I would dispute that. I can also recommend Guglielmi's - the last car was set-up by them and it was utterly brilliant.
The factory should make sure the toes and cambers are equal at least.
To be fair geo's are a bit personal, some people want the car more aggressive for track work / racing others want them softened up a bit so generally speaking all you'll get from a "normal" dealer is the standard factory settings.
It's only when you visit guys like Plans, Guglielmis et al that you can draw on their experience and get something that suits your driving style.
F.C.
To be fair geo's are a bit personal, some people want the car more aggressive for track work / racing others want them softened up a bit so generally speaking all you'll get from a "normal" dealer is the standard factory settings.
It's only when you visit guys like Plans, Guglielmis et al that you can draw on their experience and get something that suits your driving style.
F.C.
rico28 said:
Bit of a newby question here. Is checking the 'geo' stuff like the correct fit/placement of parts like the suspension?
It is something that people mention every now and then and seems like a worth while (essential) thing to have right.
Is it an expensive job that requires the removal of clams? How much would getting this checked typically cost?
Cheers
Geo = geometry = suspension geometryIt is something that people mention every now and then and seems like a worth while (essential) thing to have right.
Is it an expensive job that requires the removal of clams? How much would getting this checked typically cost?
Cheers
this refers to how the wheels sit relative to the car and the road and at the next level, how they behave when they move away from their 'at-rest' position (bump steer) etc.
Typically a geo will involve setting the following:
Toe = The amount the wheels point in or out (toe in is like looking at someone with pigeon toes, toe out, the opposite)
camber = amount by which the wheels are tipped off the vertical plane
caster = the angle at which the steering pivot is tipped either to the back of the car or the front of the car when viewed from looking directly at the wheel from the side.
Needless to say, these 3 settings can make a massive difference to how your car behaves in turns and how it follows undulations in the road, how eager it is to turn in, propensity to oversteer at different phases of a corner, etc
The following site is useful to gauge the effect of each of the 3 major settings:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.htm...
rico28 said:
Bit of a newby question here. Is checking the 'geo' stuff like the correct fit/placement of parts like the suspension?
It is something that people mention every now and then and seems like a worth while (essential) thing to have right.
Is it an expensive job that requires the removal of clams? How much would getting this checked typically cost?
Won't require clam removal, but will take someone a few hours to do correctly. Make sure the 'wearable' parts on your car, (mainly bushes) are not too worn before you start, otherwise you can never get a good baseline setting. As the bushes wear, the geo will go out of tolerance, so perhaps worth having done once a year. It is something that people mention every now and then and seems like a worth while (essential) thing to have right.
Is it an expensive job that requires the removal of clams? How much would getting this checked typically cost?
Chris at CentreGravity (google him) charges around £250 ish (don't quote me on that), but is a perfectionist. Several of the GT3 boys use him. If you just want a stock setup go to one of the usual suspects like plans motorsport, dunsfold. They've seen it all before, and can set your car up according to your driving preferences. Once you know what's going on, you can buy a camber/caster gauge yourself and experiment, although this is normally set for the type of tyres you're using and is best done in conjunction with a tyre pyrometer (temp gauge). Set once and leave.
Messing around with your toe settings is best left to someone who has tracking gauges and has an idea of what the effect on the car will be. Relatively small changes in toe can REALLY affect how the car behaves. Go to a recommended outfit for any geo setups, and if they can't talk you through the effect of what they're doing but merely replicate a stock set of settings using measuring equipment, walk away, before they assist you in putting your car in the next hedge.
There are lots of 'specialists' out there, many of whom can't even spell suspension....
Anyone know where to get this done in the north east?
Also, on the same topic, how would one know if they suspension needed replacing? I'm after upgrading my s1 suspension to the s2 like most people, but dont want to do it just yet, waiting for the spring, but still, how do you know if you NEED to replace it?
Also, on the same topic, how would one know if they suspension needed replacing? I'm after upgrading my s1 suspension to the s2 like most people, but dont want to do it just yet, waiting for the spring, but still, how do you know if you NEED to replace it?
lee111s said:
Anyone know where to get this done in the north east?
Also, on the same topic, how would one know if they suspension needed replacing? I'm after upgrading my s1 suspension to the s2 like most people, but dont want to do it just yet, waiting for the spring, but still, how do you know if you NEED to replace it?
Jude Performance are up your way, give them a call. Dan, the owner, posts on here as djroadboy IIRC.Also, on the same topic, how would one know if they suspension needed replacing? I'm after upgrading my s1 suspension to the s2 like most people, but dont want to do it just yet, waiting for the spring, but still, how do you know if you NEED to replace it?
I'm sure they'll be able to give your car a check-over and advise. Generally you can tell when it's gone or going, because the thing will knock like a b
d over bumps. How old is the car, and has the supension ever been refreshed?Gassing Station | Elise/Exige/Europa/340R | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff