Best alignment for a Griffith
Discussion
Fixing soon new 18/17'' wheels to my Griffith, the car is lowered by about 1 inch and fixed with new harder (performance) suspensions.
What would be the best alignment figures for a week end track day and some fast road street drive?
I'm sure this iussue must has been on the forum many times but i couldn't find anything with the ''search''...Thanks/G
What would be the best alignment figures for a week end track day and some fast road street drive?
I'm sure this iussue must has been on the forum many times but i couldn't find anything with the ''search''...Thanks/G
I always found that around 1 degree negative all round,works well for me.You will find many different opinions on this,and some like more or less camber at front or rear etc etc.As for the toe,just the slightest amont to remove play from the steering works for me,at the rear either perfectly straight or very slight toe in again.You've got to find out for yourself what you like,but one of the best tips that i have been given is that eveness accross each axle pair is most important.
Watch out for the clearance between the wheel arches and the new wide rubber.
Not just when the car is sat there. Check through the full range of suspension movement.
One of the cars near me recently put on the same size wheels and tyres as you have on order.
It all looked well when the car was stationary, but with the car fully laden and then cornering or squatting under acceleration, it wasn’t. The outer edges of the tyres were sometimes coming into contact with the wheel arches. By the time he noticed after about 50 miles, the new rear tyres were £300 worth of scrap and new tyres had to be fitted.
The problem was cured by raising the ride height and setting the geometry for that height. I notice you said that you have lowered the ride height. Check the clearance very carefully.
Then I would put something like chalk on the inside of the wheel arch in the area that the tyre might touch. Road test the car, and if there is any contact it should show in the chalk. Keep checking it until you are absolutely certain that there are never conditions under which the tyres rub.
Not just when the car is sat there. Check through the full range of suspension movement.
One of the cars near me recently put on the same size wheels and tyres as you have on order.
It all looked well when the car was stationary, but with the car fully laden and then cornering or squatting under acceleration, it wasn’t. The outer edges of the tyres were sometimes coming into contact with the wheel arches. By the time he noticed after about 50 miles, the new rear tyres were £300 worth of scrap and new tyres had to be fitted.
The problem was cured by raising the ride height and setting the geometry for that height. I notice you said that you have lowered the ride height. Check the clearance very carefully.
Then I would put something like chalk on the inside of the wheel arch in the area that the tyre might touch. Road test the car, and if there is any contact it should show in the chalk. Keep checking it until you are absolutely certain that there are never conditions under which the tyres rub.
Uncle Fester said:
Watch out for the clearance between the wheel arches and the new wide rubber.
Not just when the car is sat there. Check through the full range of suspension movement.
One of the cars near me recently put on the same size wheels and tyres as you have on order.
It all looked well when the car was stationary, but with the car fully laden and then cornering or squatting under acceleration, it wasn’t. The outer edges of the tyres were sometimes coming into contact with the wheel arches. By the time he noticed after about 50 miles, the new rear tyres were £300 worth of scrap and new tyres had to be fitted.
The problem was cured by raising the ride height and setting the geometry for that height. I notice you said that you have lowered the ride height. Check the clearance very carefully.
Then I would put something like chalk on the inside of the wheel arch in the area that the tyre might touch. Road test the car, and if there is any contact it should show in the chalk. Keep checking it until you are absolutely certain that there are never conditions under which the tyres rub.
Thanks for the advice, i'll check for clearances...eventually i can put the car back half inch up...Not just when the car is sat there. Check through the full range of suspension movement.
One of the cars near me recently put on the same size wheels and tyres as you have on order.
It all looked well when the car was stationary, but with the car fully laden and then cornering or squatting under acceleration, it wasn’t. The outer edges of the tyres were sometimes coming into contact with the wheel arches. By the time he noticed after about 50 miles, the new rear tyres were £300 worth of scrap and new tyres had to be fitted.
The problem was cured by raising the ride height and setting the geometry for that height. I notice you said that you have lowered the ride height. Check the clearance very carefully.
Then I would put something like chalk on the inside of the wheel arch in the area that the tyre might touch. Road test the car, and if there is any contact it should show in the chalk. Keep checking it until you are absolutely certain that there are never conditions under which the tyres rub.
Edited by panic on Wednesday 5th November 13:26
Rubber/poly bushes, rose joints, and even tyres (but pray to god chassis is stiff) all define the play in the footprint. The alignments people advocate will vary quite a lot simply due to these factors.
I am still of the opinion that level wishbones are best, to lower the car needs the wishbone mounts raising really. If you stick it on a laser alignment rig, lift & press on corners to see the changes in geometry as the suspension works. I would try & avoid the effects that create positive cambers as you go light. It is far the worst situation when the wheel is being unloaded IMHO.
I am still of the opinion that level wishbones are best, to lower the car needs the wishbone mounts raising really. If you stick it on a laser alignment rig, lift & press on corners to see the changes in geometry as the suspension works. I would try & avoid the effects that create positive cambers as you go light. It is far the worst situation when the wheel is being unloaded IMHO.
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