TVR S (HELP FUEL PUMP + WIRING DIAGRAM)
Discussion
I got my TVR S 1988 about two month's ago,it so nice to go back to a convertable..
The car was going great to about three weeks ago,Went for a nice drive around Torquay,went home for ten minutes came back out,car just keeps turning over...
My local garage came out and towed the car away,they put a new fuel pump relay.I took the car home,just got home(again just keeps turning over,took relay out then put relay back in started YES)
This happens every time I take it out (the fuse box is get hot and the fuse for the relay to the fuel pump is burning hot,but is not blowing 10A fuse)
Can any one help me....
Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram for the TVR S from
Please help.....
The car was going great to about three weeks ago,Went for a nice drive around Torquay,went home for ten minutes came back out,car just keeps turning over...
My local garage came out and towed the car away,they put a new fuel pump relay.I took the car home,just got home(again just keeps turning over,took relay out then put relay back in started YES)
This happens every time I take it out (the fuse box is get hot and the fuse for the relay to the fuel pump is burning hot,but is not blowing 10A fuse)
Can any one help me....
Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram for the TVR S from
Please help.....
Yep buy the "bible" by Steve Heath from here
www.tvrcc.com/
goto the regalia section and search for bible pick the one for the "S".
Useful infact compulsory with "S" ownership
HTH
www.tvrcc.com/
goto the regalia section and search for bible pick the one for the "S".
Useful infact compulsory with "S" ownership
HTH

must be the season for dodhy S fuel pumps. Mine packed in last night whilst rude girl was driving it back to my house, feed gone from front of car to back, powered it up off the sidelights to get us home. Funny thying is though this morning it started just fine and dandy.grrrrrrrr.
anyway to prevent any future mishaps I've wired it direct through a relay from an ignition feed. job done. The S wiring loom is an absolute abortion, I try to make my own loom at any opportunity, by gradually phasing out the TVR loom I should get a car that works reliably one day .. teehee.
anyway to prevent any future mishaps I've wired it direct through a relay from an ignition feed. job done. The S wiring loom is an absolute abortion, I try to make my own loom at any opportunity, by gradually phasing out the TVR loom I should get a car that works reliably one day .. teehee.
joospeed said:
Mine packed in last night whilst rude girl was driving it back to my house ..... teehee.
At least you're laughing now Joo. Wasn't quite so funny in the freezing cold at 1 this morning with Plod laughing at us was it?

Still wouldn't swap it though (although maybe a Cerb Joolz? You know it makes sense
)rude girl said:
joospeed said:
Mine packed in last night whilst rude girl was driving it back to my house ..... teehee.
At least you're laughing now Joo. Wasn't quite so funny in the freezing cold at 1 this morning with Plod laughing at us was it?![]()
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Still wouldn't swap it though (although maybe a Cerb Joolz? You know it makes sense)
Yep you're right, was like the bear with the sorest head! had been a crap day at work and that was the last straw. fortunately the copper was an old college friend of mine so could have been worse. S now going as well as ever except for the mighty oil leak .. oh well, engine out time .. 4.6 going spare anyone? .. peter?
Mine went mad about a year ago with intermittant problems eventually tracked to a wiring fault in the relay socket, intermittant faulty relay, and damaged wiring at the pump. I made up a 'get you home' power supply consisting of a cable with a croc clip at one and, and inline fuse and the right size spade connector to fit the pump at the other - just long enough to reach the pump from the battery. Came in handy on several occasions while I was tracking the problems down, and also again last month when the inertia cut-out aka lump of rust caused trouble. The less of the original wiring loom I keep, the more reliable it seems to get. I think the headlamp power supply will be the next bit to go.
Hi Richard. I also had probs with fuel pump but it was a simple relay change as told in previous thread however I do have a simple single sheet wiring diagram that came with the manual.It may be of use until you get the bible. The accuracy of connections is always dubious on these things I have learnt but mail me your address if you want it. Cheers Ian
Check The connector in the wiring loom under the passenger dash. If you don't know which one it is, put the ignition on, and then wiggle all the connectors until you hear the pump turnover. I had aproblem with my joint going "dry". Once you know which one it is, you can sort it with a drop of WD40. Also, check all the wiring around the ignition switch. You may have a problem there too. Happy hunting!
>> Edited by beeka on Monday 6th October 21:43
>> Edited by beeka on Monday 6th October 21:43
That the fusebox and relay are getting hot sounds like a connection arcing, probably corroded fusebox sockets?
This happens a lot as the bonnet catches are prone to leaking and guess where it drips, right over the fusebox...
Pull all the fuses one by one and give the sockets a squirt of contact cleaner (or WD40). Do the same with the fuel pump relay.
A common problem with the fuel pump relay is soldering failure in the unit. You can easily prise the cover off and you will find a PCB with a few transistors etc and a relay soldered to the PCB. Vibration usually causes either the relay or connection pin soldered joint to break. (Usually invisible) Just resolder all the PCB connections to the relay and the pins - worked in 99% of cases for me. (Oh you can get the relay full of water too - see above)
The unit is not just a relay. The circuit inside gives you 'temporary' power on switch on to prime the system pressure, but requires ignition pulses from the ignition amp to keep running. (engine cuts, fuel pump cuts soon after).
Fuel pumps themselves can sound really orrible before they go.
Good hunting.
This happens a lot as the bonnet catches are prone to leaking and guess where it drips, right over the fusebox...
Pull all the fuses one by one and give the sockets a squirt of contact cleaner (or WD40). Do the same with the fuel pump relay.
A common problem with the fuel pump relay is soldering failure in the unit. You can easily prise the cover off and you will find a PCB with a few transistors etc and a relay soldered to the PCB. Vibration usually causes either the relay or connection pin soldered joint to break. (Usually invisible) Just resolder all the PCB connections to the relay and the pins - worked in 99% of cases for me. (Oh you can get the relay full of water too - see above)
The unit is not just a relay. The circuit inside gives you 'temporary' power on switch on to prime the system pressure, but requires ignition pulses from the ignition amp to keep running. (engine cuts, fuel pump cuts soon after).
Fuel pumps themselves can sound really orrible before they go.
Good hunting.
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