Adhesive problem
Discussion
I wondered if you guys and girls can help me please.
I've ripped the old damp carpets out of my Baja but there's loads of old adhesive left, some of it is tacky, some crusty and some black tar like stuff. Its mainly the floor pan and footwell so aesthetics aren't hugely important.
So far, I've been using a wall paper scraper to get rid of the big stuff, a wire brush drill thingy and sandpaper. Most of its coming off but there are really stubborn areas and these are the ones most visable.
-Please bear in mind this is a 1976 bug thats been hand painted at some point!
I'd like to achieve a fairly smooth surface that will get primed then Hammerited.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
I've ripped the old damp carpets out of my Baja but there's loads of old adhesive left, some of it is tacky, some crusty and some black tar like stuff. Its mainly the floor pan and footwell so aesthetics aren't hugely important.
So far, I've been using a wall paper scraper to get rid of the big stuff, a wire brush drill thingy and sandpaper. Most of its coming off but there are really stubborn areas and these are the ones most visable.
-Please bear in mind this is a 1976 bug thats been hand painted at some point!
I'd like to achieve a fairly smooth surface that will get primed then Hammerited.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

Hate to tell you what you already know rach, but it's an absolute barsteward of a job to remove. Hot air gun is definately the best way to do it I've found having removed it on many a car. A really sharp knife or scraper and some time spent with the hot air gun will get it done eventually. It's basically seam sealant.
As for getting it smooth ready for painting, once you've got the sticky black gunk off, go over the lot with a wire brush drill attatchment and hammerite it, seriously. Hammerite is great for this stuff, assuming you're not trying to build a concourse winner from the bug, as it's thick enough to settle itself out to a reasonably smooth finish, just don't put it on too thick or it'll lift / chip. Doesn't need primer either, which saves a lot of arseache.
As for getting it smooth ready for painting, once you've got the sticky black gunk off, go over the lot with a wire brush drill attatchment and hammerite it, seriously. Hammerite is great for this stuff, assuming you're not trying to build a concourse winner from the bug, as it's thick enough to settle itself out to a reasonably smooth finish, just don't put it on too thick or it'll lift / chip. Doesn't need primer either, which saves a lot of arseache.
Edited by Stu R on Tuesday 11th November 06:58
Rach* said:
Thanks Stu! My arm today was so sore, my poor patients!
On the tin hammerite says it needs a primer if going directly onto bare metals, in patches there is bare metal exposed, do you think a primer would be playing it safe?
Probably to be honest, though I never bother and it's generally lasted pretty well (externally on things like suspension arms etc).On the tin hammerite says it needs a primer if going directly onto bare metals, in patches there is bare metal exposed, do you think a primer would be playing it safe?
I'd probably go for a brush on red lead oxide primer if you just want quick and not concourse, quick sand with any old grit paper and slap on the hammerite, it generally sticks like the proverbial to a blanket though so I'd not say it's essential

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