Some random 450D questions
Discussion
1. Is it possible to display a histogram when shooting normally, not in live view? I think this might be helpful as I'm learning a lot to help compose shots better.
2. Thinking about remotes, is the RC-1 any good and compatible with the 450D, are there any alternatives that offer the same functionality?
3. Looking at SD cards, is there any reason why a 8 or 16GB SDHC (class 6) card would not be compatible?
Thanks
ETA 4. Also thinking about filters, I've heard they can be useful to help protect lenses (on top of their main function), which do you find more useful - a polarizing or a UV?
2. Thinking about remotes, is the RC-1 any good and compatible with the 450D, are there any alternatives that offer the same functionality?
3. Looking at SD cards, is there any reason why a 8 or 16GB SDHC (class 6) card would not be compatible?
Thanks
ETA 4. Also thinking about filters, I've heard they can be useful to help protect lenses (on top of their main function), which do you find more useful - a polarizing or a UV?
Edited by arej on Tuesday 11th November 18:53
I don't knwo the 450D but I think two answers are generic.
NB: I have two spare 77mm UV filters for sale.
arej said:
1. Is it possible to display a histogram when shooting normally, not in live view? I think this might be helpful as I'm learning a lot to help compose shots better.
I don't see how a histogram will help with composition. It's an exposure tool.arej said:
Also thinking about filters, I've heard they can be useful to help protect lenses (on top of their main function), which do you find more useful - a polarizing or a UV?
If you do want to use a filter purely for protection then UV is the one to go for as it's effectively clear. A polarising filter will lose a lot of light. Bear in mind that filters add an extra layer of glass and may also cause vignetting, especially at wide angles.NB: I have two spare 77mm UV filters for sale.
Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 11th November 19:53
If you want to see the histogram after shooting, press the DISP button. That will display various info about that image.
It should be able to use all 4/8/16/32GB SDHC cards. That is the point of standards really (in theory anyway).
Polarisers will reduce the light by 1 stop, and isn't really needed for normal shooting. Go with UV.
It should be able to use all 4/8/16/32GB SDHC cards. That is the point of standards really (in theory anyway).
Polarisers will reduce the light by 1 stop, and isn't really needed for normal shooting. Go with UV.
I have a cheap Ricoh Caplio point-and-shoot and it will show the histogram on the screen whilst composing the shot, but I've never seen it on a DSLR. It's not going to help composition, and you can just as easily bracket to get various versions of the same shot.
I am from the school of thought that it seems odd to stick a filter that cost a few quid on the front of a decent lens. The filter glass can't be as high quality as the lens.
I am from the school of thought that it seems odd to stick a filter that cost a few quid on the front of a decent lens. The filter glass can't be as high quality as the lens.
Simpo and miniman, when I said composition, I meant to help check the lighting and exposure. Just something I thought might help.
I'm afraid I have no 77mm filter size lenses otherwise I would have been interested.
Even though I don't have any that decent lenses at the moment I understand where you are coming from miniman about the optical quality loss. Just out of interest, has anybody done any tests showing the optical quality difference with and without filters?
I think I will go for a UV filter and see how it goes.
Thanks
I'm afraid I have no 77mm filter size lenses otherwise I would have been interested.
Even though I don't have any that decent lenses at the moment I understand where you are coming from miniman about the optical quality loss. Just out of interest, has anybody done any tests showing the optical quality difference with and without filters?
I think I will go for a UV filter and see how it goes.
Thanks
I think the basic exposure meter will see you right for judging the shot. Its only if you are shooting in full manual that you really need it. You will get used to how the meter reads - in my experience Canons tend to overexpose and I like to dial in normally 1/3 stop of compensation to knock the light levels down a touch.
I have noticed that auto-exposure photos of highly saturated flowers etc over-expose by 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. I couldn't work out why most of my flower photos weren't coming out "right" until I used live mode and one channel (usually the red) was saturating. Inspection with Photoshop confirmed this. Compensating made a huge difference. I don't think it is the 450D that is the problem, a friend of mine who has a 30D and takes thousands of images a year with some very nice glass has also noticed it happen in highly saturated images such as neon lights, music gigs etc.
Compact cameras almost always work permanently in "live" mode, displaying the image directly from the sensor. A through-the-lens SLR cannot do this without flipping the mirror up or using a snazzy pellicle mirror.
Compact cameras almost always work permanently in "live" mode, displaying the image directly from the sensor. A through-the-lens SLR cannot do this without flipping the mirror up or using a snazzy pellicle mirror.
Zad said:
I have noticed that auto-exposure photos of highly saturated flowers etc over-expose by 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. I couldn't work out why most of my flower photos weren't coming out "right" until I used live mode and one channel (usually the red) was saturating. Inspection with Photoshop confirmed this. Compensating made a huge difference. I don't think it is the 450D that is the problem, a friend of mine who has a 30D and takes thousands of images a year with some very nice glass has also noticed it happen in highly saturated images such as neon lights, music gigs etc.
Compact cameras almost always work permanently in "live" mode, displaying the image directly from the sensor. A through-the-lens SLR cannot do this without flipping the mirror up or using a snazzy pellicle mirror.
Same with my old Nikon D80. THe cynic in me would suggest that by overexposing slightly the noise is less apparent in the image, but they wouldn't do that would they? 8o)Compact cameras almost always work permanently in "live" mode, displaying the image directly from the sensor. A through-the-lens SLR cannot do this without flipping the mirror up or using a snazzy pellicle mirror.
arej said:
1. Is it possible to display a histogram when shooting normally, not in live view? I think this might be helpful as I'm learning a lot to help compose shots better.
2. Thinking about remotes, is the RC-1 any good and compatible with the 450D, are there any alternatives that offer the same functionality?
3. Looking at SD cards, is there any reason why a 8 or 16GB SDHC (class 6) card would not be compatible?
Thanks
ETA 4. Also thinking about filters, I've heard they can be useful to help protect lenses (on top of their main function), which do you find more useful - a polarizing or a UV?
1 - the Disp button will change (and set) the pic review mode which will have one (or two) histogram modes.2. Thinking about remotes, is the RC-1 any good and compatible with the 450D, are there any alternatives that offer the same functionality?
3. Looking at SD cards, is there any reason why a 8 or 16GB SDHC (class 6) card would not be compatible?
Thanks
ETA 4. Also thinking about filters, I've heard they can be useful to help protect lenses (on top of their main function), which do you find more useful - a polarizing or a UV?
2 - dunno check ebay.
3 - dunno CF cards is were its at..???
4 - You cant use a polarizer as protection , they change the photo and suck 1-2 stops of light, UV filter is ONLY protection (as sensor filters UV anyhow), I dont use them (much).
sa_20v said:
RobDickinson said:
2 - dunno check ebay.
Be wary of fake ones though, same goes for batteries.e.g. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-x-Battery-for-Canon-LP-E5-...
How do you tell what is not worth buying?
Thanks
I wouldn't worry about non-canon batteries, I've got 3 which cost about £1 each and they all perform better than the Canon one which came with the camera.
I also bought a £2 infrared remote which works with Canon, Nikon, Sony and Olympus and is one of the best little things I've bought for the camera, so it doesn't always pay to go for the official stuff.
I also bought a £2 infrared remote which works with Canon, Nikon, Sony and Olympus and is one of the best little things I've bought for the camera, so it doesn't always pay to go for the official stuff.
Steve Evil said:
I wouldn't worry about non-canon batteries, I've got 3 which cost about £1 each and they all perform better than the Canon one which came with the camera.
I also bought a £2 infrared remote which works with Canon, Nikon, Sony and Olympus and is one of the best little things I've bought for the camera, so it doesn't always pay to go for the official stuff.
Where did you buy the batteries and remote - ebay?I also bought a £2 infrared remote which works with Canon, Nikon, Sony and Olympus and is one of the best little things I've bought for the camera, so it doesn't always pay to go for the official stuff.
Thanks for the info
arej said:
Steve Evil said:
I wouldn't worry about non-canon batteries, I've got 3 which cost about £1 each and they all perform better than the Canon one which came with the camera.
I also bought a £2 infrared remote which works with Canon, Nikon, Sony and Olympus and is one of the best little things I've bought for the camera, so it doesn't always pay to go for the official stuff.
Where did you buy the batteries and remote - ebay?I also bought a £2 infrared remote which works with Canon, Nikon, Sony and Olympus and is one of the best little things I've bought for the camera, so it doesn't always pay to go for the official stuff.
Thanks for the info
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